verticalturtle Posted March 12, 2002 Share Posted March 12, 2002 Okay I know this pack thing is a common theme here and has been posted to death for alpine packs. I have and love my Nozone, but I am planning to do a few climb specific 3-5 day trips and it will be too small. Weight is a factor, price is not, features are good, useless gadgets are just that, thinking 4500ci 65-75L. Ideasvt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IceIceBaby Posted March 12, 2002 Share Posted March 12, 2002 one word Chaos Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted March 12, 2002 Share Posted March 12, 2002 Andinista Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crackhead Posted March 12, 2002 Share Posted March 12, 2002 C H A O S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted March 12, 2002 Share Posted March 12, 2002 I have used both the Andinista and the Chaos. Both pale in comparison to the McHale light SARC. Carrys weight better and climbs better. Pure function.http://www.mchalepacks.com/ultralight/detail/ULsarc01.htm [ 03-12-2002: Message edited by: danielpatricksmith ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rodchester Posted March 12, 2002 Share Posted March 12, 2002 Are you saying you want something more than the normal alpine climbing pack? Something for a weeklong trip with heavier loads? While many of the packs pointed out by others are good packs most are true alpine packs with a medium sized to smaller volume. Also, if you plan on humping a weeks worth of weight I would want a frame, not just a foam pad. I have never used the McHale packs, though they have a good rep. One friend got one about ten years ago and never really liked it. Another had one and loved it. You might want to look at: http://www.arcteryx.com/packs/khamsin/khamsin62.asp http://www.arcteryx.com/packs/bora/bora65.asp http://www.danadesign.com/packs/arclight/redirect.htm http://www.gregorypacks.com/prod/frame_esc.html http://www.lowealpine.com/Products/Detail.asp?ProductTypeID=10&ProductGroupID=174&Position=3&SpecificActivityID= http://thenorthface.com/index_flash.html I would take a close look at the Kamsin 62. I have never used it, but it seems to me to fit the needs that you described. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bonehead Posted March 12, 2002 Share Posted March 12, 2002 Daniel and Ice, Let's beat this to death....you given us some food for thought.... Why specifially are you recommending the McHale and Chaos packs?? The Chaos is less than half the price of the McHale. What are we getting for the extra bucks, other than the well known quality and lightness of the McHale. Is it designed better - does it have cooler features? The Chaos seems almost too inexpensive - is it built for the long term? Your input on this is really appreciated since I'm also in the market for a new pack... Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roger_johnson Posted March 12, 2002 Share Posted March 12, 2002 Three to five days is not a real long time so why do you need a huge pack? Make it a real adventure and trim down the gear; move lighter and faster and more safely. Assuming it will be in the "good weather window". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bronco Posted March 12, 2002 Share Posted March 12, 2002 I haven't found anything that carries as well as my Lowe Alpine HUGE ASS pack. They are hard to beat the price too. Not as lightweight as some but, I think if you are carrying 5 days worth of crap, a little heavier pack might be worth the extra support. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted March 12, 2002 Share Posted March 12, 2002 McHale packs are built way tougher than any other pack on the market. My partner uses a Chaos which he got a couple of years after my SARC. Already it is showing significant signs of wear including rips in the thin fabric etc. There are no cool features on the SARC only purely functional ones. A huge top lid, 'wand' pockets that are removable and can fit 1 liter bottles, flukes, SLR cameras etc. You can order a stripped down version with no central zipper, a smaller hip belt, spectra rip stop fabric etc and get a really light pack. What you get for the extra money is unparalled quality and a truly custom fit, no need for load lifter straps etc, because the pack fits your body. Dan McHale is an expert at fitting packs. My partner and I climbed a mixed route on Hunter. He complained that the frameless Chaos was constricting his diaphram on the overhanging rock bands, my McHale was hardly noticeable despite 6 days worth of food and fuel on board. So much for frameless packs climbing better. I used an Andinista on a fairly long approach and climb. My back took two weeks to recover from the 'sausage' that rolled around on my back. The SARC is the most versatile pack I have used. I can take the wand and top pockets off and have a light pack suitable for 3 day trips or leave the pockets on and climb routes in the Alaska Range. Worth every penny. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IceIceBaby Posted March 12, 2002 Share Posted March 12, 2002 quote: Originally posted by bonehead: Daniel and Ice,Let's beat this to death....you given us some food for thought.... Why specifially are you recommending the McHale and Chaos packs?? Jim The Chaos is no frill pack made out of 500 cordura with the right features and no bells and whistles. You will be carrying the pack on a climb, so you will want a pack that you can hull in a true three point's suspension sys. Also you will need to reach the inside of the pack when it attach to the wall and you don’t want the top pocket gets in your way. These are some of the neat features of the pack. Randy Rackliff the owner and maker of this packs is, a very accomplish NE climber who design the pack because the market at the time (1990) didn’t have an alpine packs. He doesn't have a marketing campaign, no ads at the magazines, hell - he doesn't have an 800 number needless to say a web site. When you call his studio, you always get him and not a marketing rap. Basically, he is not here for the money he is all about making gear that works and transfer the saving from all the extra that mention above to the climbers, who really know what they looking for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbw1966 Posted March 12, 2002 Share Posted March 12, 2002 quote: Originally posted by IceIceBaby: Randy Rackliff the owner and maker of this packs is, a very accomplish NE climber who design the pack because the market at the time (1990) didn’t have an alpine packs. He doesn't have a marketing campaign, no ads at the magazines, hell - he doesn't have an 800 number needless to say a web site. When you call his studio, you always get him and not a marketing rap. Basically, he is not here for the money he is all about making gear that works and transfer the saving from all the extra that mention above to the climbers, who really know what they looking for. Why do people insist on assuming manufacturers are not in it for the money? Why the hell else would someone go through the hassle of desing, construction and marketing? Its a business. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IceIceBaby Posted March 12, 2002 Share Posted March 12, 2002 quote: Originally posted by rbw1966: Why do people insist on assuming manufacturers are not in it for the money? Why the hell else would someone go through the hassle of desing, construction and marketing? Its a business. Opening can of worms so I will just say my opinion and I will leave it at that There is making money for living, there is living to make money, and Randy Rackliff is the former. Granted it will pay his mortgage/rent and salary, but he is not planing on retiring on it. If he was, this company by now will be a lot bigger then it is. His main income coming from art and you should do a research on him on Google and see for yourself. Cold Cold World is his baby and not his moneymaker like McHale. [ 03-12-2002: Message edited by: IceIceBaby ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bronco Posted March 12, 2002 Share Posted March 12, 2002 quote: Originally posted by danielpatricksmith: ...My partner and I climbed a mixed route on Hunter. He complained that the frameless Chaos was constricting his diaphram on the overhanging rock bands, my McHale was hardly noticeable despite 6 days worth of food and fuel on board. So much for frameless packs climbing better... [thread creep] That sounds just plain burly, wearing a 6 day pack to climb overhanging rock bands. Being a newbie, I must ask why on God's green earth would you not haul your pack through overhanging terrain? with 6 days of food and fuel on Mt. Hunter. [thread creep] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bonehead Posted March 12, 2002 Share Posted March 12, 2002 Daniel and Ice,, (as well as everyone else who posted....) Thanks ALOT for the input - it really helped put some of my questions into perspective. Great info.... Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted March 12, 2002 Share Posted March 12, 2002 Bronco, The short answer is hauling takes time. It is much faster to pull on a nut than try to haul. The route was really not that burly, perhaps 5.8 at the most. The overhanging sections were mercifully short, but were definitely overhanging. If the steep sections were longer than they were, it would have made sense to haul. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rainier_Wolfscastle Posted March 12, 2002 Share Posted March 12, 2002 Climbing mag had a review of large alpine packs within the last year. Sorry, can't remember the issue number. I do remember that the cheapest pack actually was the best one reviewed. It was called the Serratus Superlight. Arcteryx Khasmin 62 got high marks too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bug Posted March 12, 2002 Share Posted March 12, 2002 Kelty has a line of light packs out. I have one that is 4500 ci. It hauls loads well and is pretty good for climbing. It strips down to 2 lbs for summit day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jman Posted March 12, 2002 Share Posted March 12, 2002 Packs are kind of like boots, in that fit has a lot to do with whether or not you like it. Features are nice and important to consider whether they'll meet your needs (obviously the same with capacity, overall weight, cost, etc). But, once again, no matter how cool of a design or how great the construction or how grandiose the claims by the manufacturer, if it's not comfortable you won't want to use it. So... load it up, try it on. Ask for demos, rentals, borrow from a friend. Just my $.02 worth. BTW, a lot of cool info everyone's sharing here. Keep it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Yount Posted March 12, 2002 Share Posted March 12, 2002 Arc'teryx Khamsin 62Serratus SuperLiteKelty Cloud 4500 ($275 sale at Pro Mountain) the first two are excellent climbing packs in your size range. just because a bag is in your size range does NOT make it a good climbing bag. pay attention. the third is also a good climbing bag and there is none lighter, none. but typcial cost about $500 makes it out of reach. i've been collecting data over a year, and then Climbing did an article with results matching my own. i'd plug the khamsin 62 for exactly your stated desires. Climbing OnlinePacks for the long haulLightweight alpine/expedition backpacksBy Dave Sheldon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freeclimb9 Posted March 13, 2002 Share Posted March 13, 2002 quote: Originally posted by verticalturtle: Weight is a factor, price is not, features are good, useless gadgets are just that, thinking 4500ci 65-75L. Since price is not a factor, check out the offerings from Arcteryx (sp?). They really do have nice stuff --it costs less in Canada, I believe. I've got a Chaos pack, and it's okay. But I was on a budget when I bought it, and would look elsewhere if I had the cash. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
verticalturtle Posted March 14, 2002 Author Share Posted March 14, 2002 Thanks for all the insight and good ideas from those that gave it, and thanks for the restraint posed by those normally more prone to spray. Here are those in consideration:Kelty Cloud 4500TNF Prophet 65Gregory Makalu ProKhamsin 62 Most others were weeded out due to size (too small) or weight (too heavy). I have the NOZONE and basically want that in a larger size. Frame packs are good: those that can be stripped are better. I like the adjustability of the TNF and Kelty but have little faith in either company. My only beef with the Khamsin is the size is at a minimum. Trust me I know about going light, but there are some routes where stuff is just bulky, you may have to sit and wait out weather, or somethingone else is slowing you down. Typically I do more technical routes with speed in mind, but I have some I want to do that are a bit more remote (ie minimim 1 full day in 1 full day out 1 full on route; assuming all goes well). Thanks againvt PS: The dry side of the state has been expiriencing a bit of a partner drout for a while. If the above extremely vague route description sounds appealing drop a msg. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allison Posted March 14, 2002 Share Posted March 14, 2002 I have an Arc'teryx Khamsin series pack, and I have done lots of different things in it and have never for one minute been unhappy with it. Suuuuper comfy. The only thing I would change on it is there is a long zip on mine, it's heavy, and they don't have those anymore. It's got a single aluminum stay and a thin packsheet in it. It's is brilliantly comfortable, and from MEC was still agonizingly expensive, but I wouldn't trade it for the world, except for maybe to get another Arc'teryx pack. Great, great packs. I wasn't going to add to this thread but really wanted the Arc'teryx to stand out. Note: MEC is the cheapest place I know of to get them, but you'll need to go and buy in person, no mail order on Arc'teryx, good reason to go to MEC...also, try on all of the sizes. I am 5'9" and was surprised to find that I am a 'short' by their sizing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allthumbs Posted March 14, 2002 Share Posted March 14, 2002 It's like buying a car. So many nice ones to choose from. Price, quality and fit. I like Arcteryx for those three reasons. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elvis Posted March 14, 2002 Share Posted March 14, 2002 You can't beat Arc Teryx. For alpine, I use the Jannd Mountaineering Alpine Pack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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