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bumbass

how to respect lazy climbers....

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Wow! :pagetop:

Never thought I'd agree w/Dwayner 'bout anything,

but like he & Frosty pointed out, first come, first served.

 

Shit ton of rock out there people.

Go check it out.

 

Cheers.

Jimbo

Edited by jshamster

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The amount of days that I have gone to the lower wall to climb these upper pitches and had to scrap those plans because of mega huge top rope parties dominating the first 50' of Japenese gardens is staggering.

 

Buy one of these:

roosteralarmclock2.jpg

 

 

 

If I recall correctly, my alarm woke me up at 630am. Thanks for the advice though.

 

Ben

 

 

 

I don't know where your van was parked when you awoke at 6:30, but I try and get to the start of something I want to climb by 7:30 at index. I have never had to wait on any occasion. I have noticed a lot of people show up around 9am. I have not climbed there this year, is the area seeing more traffic?

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the person who drops their shit at the base of the route get dibs and can climb it as long as they want, dumbass.

no that's a bunch of bullshit. parties tr-ing a route all day long is a friggin horseshit.

learn to respect other people and to share the crag. gang-bang tr-ing all day long (blocking access for other people) is just another elitist behavior done by clown punching wankers

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...need to recreate.

 

the last two times I went to index this year, I was planning on climbing all four pitches of the recently cleaned japanese gardens.

 

the first day we encountered a large group of (five) moderate climbers using the mid anchors on the first pitch TRing through the chains. when we asked if we could climb through, they said they "would be done soon."

 

the second day we saw an amazingly slow aid climbing party, doing their best to drop all of their gear, on what would prove to be a 5 hour ascent of the first 35 meters. (note: not the first time (uber-slow) aid climbers have been spotted on this classic free route)

 

so what's a hard free climber to do? I don't like japanese's mid anchors becuase it encourages beginers (usually one's that don't know how to share) to clog the route all day. aid climbers? I've climbed past them before, that doesn't make them any happier.

 

japanese is a key route to accessing the plethora of hard, recently scrubbed and rebolted routes on the upper ltw, as well as 10% and sterm farmer, yet it is plagued with these obstructions..

 

who gets priority with a route? we're americans right? so we have the

(climbing)god-given right to climb what we want when we want right? I suggest the following heirarchy for those wanting to climb a route that has been free climbed(in descending order):

 

-hard climber who can climb route blind-folded(w/o shirt of course)

-moderately hard climber (working on blind-fold trick)

-standard free climber, working route (not on TR)

-beginer climber

-mosquito

-gnat

-annoying barking dog of hard climber

 

did anybody notice aid climbers didn't make it onto the list? I can respect that crazy sh@t you guys do, but go do it on an aid route huh? leave the free routes to the free climbers...

 

any thoughts on the list?

 

This looks like serious spray to me. Good stuff.

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Heck of a list. Perhaps dick measuring should also be a factor. I could show up at noon, tell tales about mine being really long, then everyone should step aside.

 

No sense having 10 people enjoy the rock that I alone could really enjoy!

 

i don't have a dick, how am i supposed to ever got on any route? sheeit-now i know what the problem is.

 

why are people such assholes? it is possible to let people pass if you're going to be someplace for a longtime.

 

i like chuck's idea of moving the midpoint anchors. i'm pissed b/c that's one of my favorite moderate gear routes.

 

ftr-just b/c i'm not a bad ass climber doesn't mean i'm a lazy climber. i don't have the time in my life to dedicate to climbing to become a badass. you're the friggin lazy bastard who can't get to the base of a popular route early.

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why does one have to get to the base early???? Who in their right mind would anticipate ONE FUCKING GROUP ON IT ALL DAY LONG??? I mean come on...i understand they were there first, but seriously...

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What's funny is they seem to think that idiots aiding free lines is only specific to Jap Gardens or that the mid anchors have something to do with it???

 

I would agree that if you aid climb (which I do myself) then you should at least have enough respect or common sense to stay off ultra popular free lines on the weekends. That said if you get up early enough and your plan is to go aid Jap Gardens go for it but realize people may be irked when they find you moving at a snails pace up a common free route.

 

To the troll who posted this... Tuff shit, get up earlier next time, come back another weekend, show up mid week or just stop being such a dumbass.

 

As for the TR crew just ask if they'd like a TR on the whole pitch. It's worked for me numerous times in the past. If you aren't an idiot you can pretty much get on Jap Gardens anytime you want by just offering to set their rope up at the top when you finish climbing the whole thing.

 

 

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rudy, dude, ya know i luv ya and all but seriously LTW on the weekend? don't you have to expect it to be busy. one group of 5 is going to take a while. it could just as easily have been 3 groups of 2. that's gonna take a while too. tradyguy has a good point, you can offer to trail their rope and set up a TR for them. or figure out some way to jump on the route in between members of their party. communication is a good thing.

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practicing aid climbing on a very popular free pitch to the first anchor and then practicing jumaring and then practicing hauling and then heading on to the "second" pitch is by definiton GHEY. When its on the only sunny weekend we've had in a long time it becomes SUPER GHEY...

 

the only thing worse would have been a bunch of mountie helmet M&M'ers spewing dogma, starting up the route with the rope draped over their shoulder and proceeding to lecture every passerby on what knot to use...

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the mounties at least post their clusterfucking plans ahead of time so you can plan accordingly...

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I would agree that if you aid climb (which I do myself) then you should at least have enough respect or common sense to stay off ultra popular free lines on the weekends. That said if you get up early enough and your plan is to go aid Jap Gardens go for it but realize people may be irked when they find you moving at a snails pace up a common free route.

 

 

 

 

A long time ago I wasn't aiding, but I was rope soloing the Green Spur in Eldorado Canyon. I got up early to beat the crowd and got to the route first. I led the first pitch then rapped to clean it. At the base I ran into a couple who had just got there looking to do the same climb. The dude seemed grumpy and wanted to pass. I told him that if they caught up with me I had no problem with them passing. I then jugged the rope and started on the second pitch. I never saw the dude again till I was rapping to clean the last pitch. He gave me a dirty look, and I laughed and headed to the top. I never saw the couple again.

 

The point is I have no problem with faster groups passing, but I don't automatically assume that somebody is going to be faster. In the case at Index if I was in a group of 5 on the first short bit of a pitch and a smaller group showed to do the complete route I might not instantly let them pass, but I would let them pass.

 

In the case in Eldo the whole thing just makes me laugh.

Edited by AlpineK

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ha! nahh... i meant on a busy day on a popular route. unless you're super fast. but most people aren't

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When we are climbing, we set our own rules to achieve our own goals. Some people free solo. Some people aid climb.

 

It sucks when a route is being monoplolized. I'm a shitty climber, so I have to deal with this more than you badasses that are looking for a mutlipitch 5.11c. Use your badass skillz, quit whining and climb something else.

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practicing aid climbing on a very popular free pitch to the first anchor and then practicing jumaring and then practicing hauling and then heading on to the "second" pitch is by definiton GHEY. When its on the only sunny weekend we've had in a long time it becomes SUPER GHEY...

 

the only thing worse would have been a bunch of mountie helmet M&M'ers spewing dogma, starting up the route with the rope draped over their shoulder and proceeding to lecture every passerby on what knot to use...

Rudy, I've been meaning to talk to you about that tie in knot you've been using. It's waaayyy sketch. ;)

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oh boy...here we's go, here we's go!! let's get it on!!!

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A long time ago I wasn't aiding, but I was rope soloing the Green Spur in Eldorado Canyon.

 

Couldn't the guys just jumped on Rewritten and joined up after the first pitch? People complain about Index, my experiences tell my Squamish and Eldo are much, much worse. I have yet to do more then Mosquito on the Smoke Bluff Connection due to crowds, and that was because it was raining when I climbed it.

 

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As things stood I may have slowed them down by at most 5 min at the base of the route. Yeah they could have done an alternate start. As things worked out I was climbing faster by myself than they were as a team.

 

If they would have caught up with me I totally would have let them pass.

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the only thing worse would have been a bunch of mountie helmet M&M'ers spewing dogma, starting up the route with the rope draped over their shoulder and proceeding to lecture every passerby on what knot to use...

:lmao:

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Seriously, the only reason why you are having problems with people is because you do not want to walk for more than a half hour. There is plenty of rock in the Cascades. Go out and give it a try.

 

If you are not willing to hike to get to rock, you are a bit lazy yourself.

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last weekend we saw some dolt aiding up jap gardens with a pace of a slow snail. btw sat morning this was one of the only few dry pieces of rock up there. i mean what's up!?? since you are hanging off gear anyway why don't you go up some real aid pitch instead of going up a free route, that goes up at moderate grade!!?? i mean what are you going to learn? how to piss everyone else off? if it was your goal- you are 100% on target.

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A long time ago I wasn't aiding, but I was rope soloing the Green Spur in Eldorado Canyon.

 

Couldn't the guys just jumped on Rewritten and joined up after the first pitch? People complain about Index, my experiences tell my Squamish and Eldo are much, much worse. I have yet to do more then Mosquito on the Smoke Bluff Connection due to crowds, and that was because it was raining when I climbed it.

 

I think there's an order of priority, at least in Squish, and the code (dutifuly presented by Kevin McLane in the Squmaish guidebook):

 

-- no hammers on free cracks

-- leaders get priority, then TR people, aid climbers go to obscure routes please

-- if you are slow, get the fuck out of the way

-- do not gang-bang at busy areas.

 

(and mine: don't do a multipitch climb which is at your grade limit. Even if you can onsight say 11a, it's gonna be a lot harder to climb 11a when you've done 10 pitches previously and you are dehydrated.)

 

And if you are that doorknob on Angel's Crest/the Buttress/or going "just to the top of the Pillar", etc, who brought his girlfriend and her best friend, and one liter of water between the three of you, on a lovely August day, and you are getting spanked on the last 10a crack due to exhaustion, dehydration and rope clusterfucking, and are holding 5 parties hostage to your idiocy, well, move it on over.

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