kevbone Posted March 14, 2007 Posted March 14, 2007 (edited) The one and only Jim Opdyke circa early 80's, Beacon Rock. Cleaning and cleaning and cleaning. Jim is famous for how much cleaning goes into his routes. Jim in 2006....still truckin...... Jim is turning 63 in April and he still goes climbing every weekend..... Edited March 14, 2007 by kevbone Quote
Sherri Posted March 14, 2007 Posted March 14, 2007 WHAT!!!!1?? You don't like my first-issue Patagucci canvas climbering shorts, complete with the double reinforced ass? Clearly, you don't know haute couture when you see it. Pffft! Amateur. No, no, I wasn't dissing the canvas shorts. The reinforced butt is a nice touch of class. They were just a bit of a let-down after the "garter-harness" you sported in the "Nice Climbing guys" thread. Oh shit, now I've gone and done it. I've created a monster. Sherri = cyberstalker?? I'm sure I'm not the only you created with that photo. Lovin' all the other wayback pics, too, though! Makes me wish I had started wayback before people started climbing in color. Quote
pink Posted March 14, 2007 Posted March 14, 2007 j.h. , your a near relic. i know you got some cool pics. cough em up, you must share. Quote
JosephH Posted March 14, 2007 Posted March 14, 2007 Wish I did pink, but I was photographer in Vietnam and when I got back and found climbing I wanted nothing to do with cameras or taking pictures. Now I wish I'd taken more shots of us. I really just have the couple of my partner and I from the article in Climbing I did back in '78. Fiddler On The Roof (11+) - '75 (no harness / painter's pants / EB's / no chalk) Lost Warriors (11+), P4 - '04 (Tech'ed out to the groovy max / still no chalk) Quote
Dechristo Posted March 14, 2007 Posted March 14, 2007 C'mon, now. Everybody else dated photos for reference... cough up the years of date, you two. Quote
kevbone Posted March 14, 2007 Posted March 14, 2007 Joseph, does Lost Warriors have a second free accent? Who? Quote
JosephH Posted March 14, 2007 Posted March 14, 2007 Yes, I've done it three times since the FFA and led all the pitches the last time I did it this past fall. Quote
Sherri Posted March 14, 2007 Posted March 14, 2007 C'mon, now. Everybody else dated photos for reference... cough up the years of date, you two. Ooops, my bad, I was holding out. 1968. Thought the Chevelle in the background was a good clue. Quote
kevbone Posted March 14, 2007 Posted March 14, 2007 Yes, I've done it three times since the FFA and led all the pitches the last time I did it this past fall. I remember watching you as Frick and I climbing up under you on YW to check out the loose block you eventually trundled. Good job. I guess I was asking has anyone else freed it? Quote
JosephH Posted March 14, 2007 Posted March 14, 2007 Yes, I've done it three times since the FFA and led all the pitches the last time I did it this past fall. I remember watching you as Frick and I climbing up under you on YW to check out the loose block you eventually trundled. Good job. I guess I was asking has anyone else freed it? Oh, yeah, I think that was one of the times Bill and I just did the first three pitches up to the rap that takes you down to the top of Boardwalk. I've done that a bunch of times and you saw me fall setting up for the lower crux if I remember right. I fell on that same lower crux stem one other time pretty hard from higher up - it was little scary as the pro at there is two side-by-side cams up in a downward facing pod up under the undercling and I wasn't entirely sure they'd hold, but I've since come to the conclusion that, looks to the contrary, that the cams are bomber. Quote
TrogdortheBurninator Posted March 14, 2007 Posted March 14, 2007 Hey Joseph, That first pic is awesome. Did the leader run that whole thing out, or are you guys toproping it? Bold!! PS, this is a great thread! Quote
kevbone Posted March 14, 2007 Posted March 14, 2007 Yes, I've done it three times since the FFA and led all the pitches the last time I did it this past fall. I remember watching you as Frick and I climbing up under you on YW to check out the loose block you eventually trundled. Good job. I guess I was asking has anyone else freed it? Oh, yeah, I think that was one of the times Bill and I just did the first three pitches up to the rap that takes you down to the top of Boardwalk. I've done that a bunch of times and you saw me fall setting up for the lower crux if I remember right. I fell on that same lower crux stem one other time pretty hard from higher up - it was little scary as the pro at there is two side-by-side cams up in a downward facing pod up under the undercling and I wasn't entirely sure they'd hold, but I've since come to the conclusion that, looks to the contrary, that the cams are bomber. Does it have a second free by someone else? Quote
billcoe Posted March 14, 2007 Posted March 14, 2007 Didn't Mike Layton and Marcus Donaldson do it? Quote
JosephH Posted March 14, 2007 Posted March 14, 2007 Didn't Mike Layton and Marcus Donaldson do it? Oh, sorry. Mike and Marcus did it with Jim providing ground control. I believe they said they did a couple of points of aid, so no one other than Karsten and myself to-date. Ken (Walla-walla) and Jason went up it with me last fall. Quote
shapp Posted March 14, 2007 Posted March 14, 2007 "Smith Rocks trad, 1977. Chocks only, no cams, no pitons, no sport routes, few bolts. Safe climbing became popular much later" No offense to roboboy, but westface variation is easily lead with nuts and hexs safely, even today Cheers Quote
billcoe Posted March 14, 2007 Posted March 14, 2007 Show up with an old pic shapp and maybe someone will pay attention. Later Bill Quote
roboboy Posted March 14, 2007 Posted March 14, 2007 Thanks for the clarification but safety may have something to do with skill level and mine wasn't that high. Also that was the gear that we used on all of our climbs and that is the best photo that I have. I'm sure the route could be safely free soloed without gear by some, then and now. Quote
MCash Posted March 14, 2007 Posted March 14, 2007 Deb's Crack, 1972 Cool pic. That's a fun route. Quote
shapp Posted March 14, 2007 Posted March 14, 2007 (edited) For Bill (the oldest electronic photo I have on hand), While not that old (only about 14 years) this is at Flagstone, pre Tvedt explosion and before reto-bolting of some classics (i.e. Hydrotube) occured. Edited March 14, 2007 by shapp Quote
shapp Posted March 14, 2007 Posted March 14, 2007 Not sure of the current or historical name. The only route we know the name of was the Hydrotube at that time (around 1992). I haven't been there since the various guide books have been out. Starting from the hydrotube, facing the rock, you have hydrotube, then a route that veres off the tube to the right up through a steep bulge to an anchor, the next route right of that moves up and right onto a rib then left through a weird scoop to an anchor, then the next route to the right climbs straight up along the right side of the arete (which is the route in the photo, which was I think about 5.10 or so). So what is the name of that? Quote
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