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roboboy

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Everything posted by roboboy

  1. WANTED: climbing holds and old ropes

    I have an old rope you can have. PM me if interested.
  2. That's amazing. I was on an attempt of the north face on the same day in 1983 and we turned back as my partner had misgivings. On the way down we were overtaken by one of the group who had been higher up, who told us of their tragic accident.
  3. PM me if you want them back.
  4. Trip: Castle Crags - Cosmic Wall, etc Date: 4/5/2007 Trip Report: James mysteriously disappeared for the winter but when he re-emerged from ? we quickly decided on a road trip to northern California. The first day we did Mt Hubris, Cosmic wall, recently reported on by some others. 2nd pitch 3rd pitch: Back on the ground. The next morning we scrambled to the top of Castle Dome. The clean white granite slabs were fun and super grippy with rock shoes. After that we went to Six Toe rock and did some routes. The climbs here seemed like typical moderately high angle granite climbing with continuous cracks systems with jams and laybacks. James led 2-pitch Six Toe crack: On the third day it rained so we retrieved our gear and headed home but glad to get in two great days of climbing.
  5. Front Row: don't know, Tom Stewart?, Don Liska, Dave Becksted, Paul Myhre.
  6. A Book For Mt. Whitney

    I have a book on the Mt Whitney walk up route that you can have, it's not the Croft book. If interested PM me and I'll get it to you, maybe meet somewhere, north end.
  7. Fred Beckey in the New York Times

    We went to Snow Creek wall to check out Hyperspace, a route befitting a climbing God. But unfortunately we couldn't decide who should be the ropegun and we both wanted the glory so we ended up not getting off the ground. That's the way it goes sometimes. I wanted to provide some beta so I at least showed the way across the creek. Jeff Lowe arguably has a more impressive first ascent record. I asked him at his slide show once and he said "over 1000". A lot of them were big walls and hard technical climbing. I think that hardly any or none of them were first ascents of mountain summits however. Also, I don't think either of these two people are willing to discuss this in detail.
  8. Fred Beckey in the New York Times

    And he actually isn't and doesn't want to be.
  9. Leavenworth Rock

    The 1965 orange covered Leavenworth guide (by Fred) refers to "a severe layback problem just opposite the Mountaineer creek trail departure..." Maybe that refers to classic crack.
  10. [TR] Alpental Wall (beta) - 9/4/2008

    You could try rapelling from a tree on top and clear off the loose stuff on the way down (with no one below). Isn't there a route nearby Kiss of the Crowbar ?
  11. Trip: Molar Tooth - West Face - FA - II 5.8 Date: 9/26/2007 Trip Report: This is one of those faces in the North Cascades that is hard to get a look at from popular destinations. Last spring I viewed it from 4 miles away and recognized the profile as seen from the Cutthroat Lake side (but in reverse). I thought that there was probably something to climb there although I couldn't make any detail. Yesterday I went to take a look at it with James Hamaker. We intended to hike up the drainage shown on the Green Trails map but we never found it. Instead we ascended the forested rib east from where the PCT crosses Porcupine Creek and this took us fairly efficiently up to about 7000 ft. At this point we weren't sure exactly what was the summit of Molar Tooth, let alone what we should try to climb and the clouds blowing across the mountain tops weren't helping matters. We decided to traverse south, climbing class 3 over one rib of rock and traversing steep slabs around the base of the next. Up a bit and we found a clean 40 ft slab that we scrambled up to set a belay at a small larch tree (center of photo): James led up some easy 5th class then traversed to the right where there was an exposed 5.7 move around the corner (under the smooth bulge). There were some loose handholds here but solid ones could be found. He belayed closely above at a dead tree. The next pitch started up a chimney (poor rock but easy): Above was some 5.8 face climbing and an interesting boulder-pedestal with a fist crack behind it. This involved climbing up one side using the crack then descending the other side to get back on route, not that hard, but awkward. There was a loose rectangular block at the base that I considered trundling but it was OK to stand on with downward pressure only. Some more 5.8 led to a low angle heathery section. James was eager to lead and I didn't argue as I would have taken longer on the harder moves. Above were some cool slab overlaps. James went straight up and was able to place pro in a crack at the steep part (5.5): We were heading for the gap between the two apparent high points seen from the start but weren't sure where the actual summit was. There was a chimney with overhanging chockstone at the end of this 3rd pitch that went at about 5.7. Above this the summit was an easy scramble. The clouds had cleared and the scenery was great: We descended by the normal rappel route down the north ridge. The rock on this route was good. There were some loose potential holds but they could be avoided. There seemed to be less black lichen than on the north ridge and east face. We didn't see any signs of previous ascents on this climb. Robert Campbell Gear Notes: 50m rope, medium rack up to #3 cam
  12. Contrary to some opinions, I wouldn't be surprised if there isn't a single new technical alpine route this moderate left in the Washington Cascades. I hiked up Porcupine Creek today to get a look at this. From the opposite side of the valley at a long distance away it looks fairly insignificant but must be around 400 vertical ft of rock. The first slabby pitch is pretty good. The 2nd pitch (5.8) is marred by it's low angle heathery finish. Looks like there are many options on the start of the 3rd pitch (probably 4th class by traversing left) but we went straight up to simplify rope management. There is then a short low angle rubble slope (stable) before the 5.7 exit chimney. So not really a classic moderate but still a fun climb on good rock.
  13. these are a couple of photos I have -
  14. We did a few of these climbs this weekend. I was climbing with someone who had never climbed outdoors before so the agenda wasn't too ambitious. You can actually set up a toprope at Garden of Eden by hiking up the ravine on the left and scrambling up the opposite end of the crag, takes about 10 minutes. Access to the climbing is the same as last year, apparently Braeyside farm, although I haven't yet found the sign that calls it that. The parking lot is at the end of Valleyview road above the northeast side of Skaha lake. Parking fee is $10/day or $6 if you get there after 2pm. An annual pass is $78. I counted 25 cars Sunday afternoon but the area didn't seem crowded, there are lots of climbs. You can check the message board at the parking lot shelter for groups occupying popular crags, like Another Buttress, before you bother going there. Cyopeck's secret Eve's dropping
  15. Yak Check

    Yak peak last Wednesday night - lots of snow.
  16. I was thinking about this and about the standard route on Triumph, called the West route, that I did once. I think the West route traverses around to the high bench that Layton calls the 1100 ft point on their route on the SW then finishes up on 4th class rock on the upper southeast face, basically crossing over their SW ridge route. The new route sounds pretty worthwhile but basically this means that there is an easy escape to the right to summit from the final two crux pitches of the new route. I guess it also means that you could combine the upper and lower parts of either of the routes as desired ?
  17. My ultimate dream is being unsatisfied...help!!

    This thread reminds me of "Cindy66" about a year ago. This site has some people that will take newbies and offer informal instruction but you usually have to be northwest local in order to get on private trips because they often aren't planned ahead. In the case of Cindy she kept posting and talking about it but never showed up in person and never reported back that she did any climbing. I think the main reason was that she was too far away (Arkansas) for anything to work out. I'm not sure if anyone would have wanted to bother trying to set anything up with an out of town stranger with little climbing experience. This isn't really the season for basic mountaineering around here either so if anyone did want to plan something it's probably going to have to be at least 2 or 3 months from now to get decent weather and conditions on larger mountains.
  18. My ultimate dream is being unsatisfied...help!!

    I doubt it and I can't imagine anyone wanting your nutz.
  19. A very difficult decision

    Chances are that you will get another offer within 6 months but it will probably still be in California. But if you don't, medical bills could wipe you out financially so better just take this offer. Does the new insurance plan cover a pre-existing condition? If not, the better pay can pay for the COBRA. Also you should have enough extra resources to cover some trips back to Seattle and take care of any tasks around the house and assistance for your wife that you don't have time for. It will be easy to move back here later, even if you just outright quit and pick up the kind of work you have been doing. For the next 3 to 6 months it looks like climbing is going to be better down there than here anyway. You can have my copy of So Cal Select, which I don't have time to use, if I can borrow a pair of snowshoes.
  20. The GODDAMN BUSH ECONOMY!

    I think this type of stimulus could be readily available and the right package could arise. However too generous an injection might end up being a drawback to a sleepy economy and also bring on an undesireable (and quite economical) response.
  21. The GODDAMN BUSH ECONOMY!

    I think this is basically what this thread turned out to be about...
  22. coquihalla conditions

    shitty...no.
  23. Spray Park, Mt. Rainier?

    The normal approach over Knapsack pass has a couple of areas of avalanche danger. Looks like an alternate by a summer trail to the south that avoids those. Spray park itself has gentle slopes. (I went in there once in the spring and I don't recall there is any problem getting in there over Knapsack).
  24. There are some cragging areas around Vernon and Kelowna, described in Central BC Rock guidebook. It's supposedly out of print but you can still find it around Seattle (they have it at Stone Gardens). There is of course Skaha area further south. I'm not aware of much alpine climbing close by but there are a lot of hikes around Kelowna: Kelowna trails It's not really what I would call alpine but I've been to Okanagan Mt park a couple of times, it has a good trail system and it's OK for exercise hikes with views mainly of Okanagan Lake. There's a climbing gym in Kelowna also, Beyond the Crux.
  25. Trip: Red Rocks - Photos Date: 10/22/2007 Trip Report: Black Velvet canyon: Frogland: Pine creek canyon: Dark Shadows: Self-contained traveling dirtbag setup: Brass wall: Sport climbing: Farewell to Red Rocks:
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