Mt. Hood bivy sites

[hippos_are_evil]

Howdy,

 

My friends and I are doing up Hood this weekend (provided the snow/weather are good) and want to bivy somewhere near Crater Rock and summit again the next day. Are there any areas we should really avoid for avy danger? We'll be in snow caves so I'm not concerned about flat areas.

 

thanks

 

Sam

[goatboy]

Are you asking for specific places (i.e. GPS coordinates) or general principles (i.e. a tight drainage directly below corniced slopes above)?

 

Perhaps you could post what you generally understand about avalanche dangers/terrain here in order to help people better understand what sort of answer you need.

[Kevin_Matlock]

Are there any areas we should really avoid for avy danger?

Don't think so, but we were up there this past weekend and the west crater looked like it recently slabbed off... so I wouldn't trudge up that way if I were you.

[hippos_are_evil]

Are you asking for specific places (i.e. GPS coordinates) or general principles (i.e. a tight drainage directly below corniced slopes above)?

 

Perhaps you could post what you generally understand about avalanche dangers/terrain here in order to help people better understand what sort of answer you need.

 

I was looking for areas that would be good or bad for bivy sites but don't need GPS location. We were going to cave it up at the top of the palmer but I thought why not camp up higher?

 

As for avy danger, I know slopes of 30-50 deg. are the highest risk and that a heavy snow on top of pretty consolidated snow isn't safe as it can shear off easily. And to avoid West Crater Rim as it's a high avy site.

 

I was hoping to camp somewhere near crater rock but wasn't sure if it'd be a bad idea to be right there as rocks could fall off. But also I don't want to be in a gully and wasn't sure about just camping on the face on the east side of crater rock either.

[Kevin_Matlock]

No real threats on the top of the ridge around 9500; just before you start on the flanks of crater rock.

[billbob]

Rock and ice do fall off Crater Rock...

Also note that snow conditions above the Palmer on Sat were about 8" of loose unconsolidated stuff not adhering well to ice below. Makes it tough to dig a cave unless you find better on the lee side of something big. Also note that winds on or near the White Canyon ridge can be challenging at times. Check out current conditions at Timberline lodge website, top of magic mile lift.

[fheimerd]

I was up there once and PMR borrowed right into the hogsback at the point were people usually sit around and rope up before going up. You'll definately want to be somewhat carefull. I was up in the newton creek drainage and set of a 100ft wide slide that traveled about 300ft. I triggered it by cutting a piece of cornice off and letting it fall. Fun!!!

[DPS]

I would think that Illumination saddle would be pretty ideal. One could dig into the snow bank on the Reid glacier side.

[ivan]

illumination's great for bivying and building caves - bring a saw, it's often super-icy

[hippos_are_evil]

Thanks for the beta!

 

sam

[sweatinoutliquor]

Plus crater rock is so stinky!

[ClimbingPanther]

good call, I didn't even think about that. sulfur is not a sleep-aid for me at least!

[Chad_A]

I'll second the I Saddle idea; great views.

 

[jaee]

I-saddle is great if Wx is stable. I've been in there several times when the pressure is changing and it's blowing 60+ thru the saddle. Although if you're digging a snow cave you would be set.

 

Top of triangle moraine is also good. This is ~9500 where the ridges that separate zigzag, palmer, & white river all come together. There are also usually some lower angle areas on the ridge between zigzag & palmer between 9200-9500.

[sean_beanntan]

Because of the recent rain crust and the ice layer and lqaack of snow, its difficult to find deep enough pockets to build a cave before you get to 10,300ft on Hood, (platform near the old engine). The Hogsback is a good place but you need to get to 10,500ft. Illumination saddle is an amazing location for a cave, just build on the west side on the snow ridge, dont go onto the Reid side.

 

"heavy snow on top of pretty consolidated snow isn't safe as it can shear off easily."

.....a heavy layer on top of a weak layer can create a weak shear but if the snow underneath is consolidated then in Oregon, we call that a good layer..most of the time. The two things to consider are the bonding of each layer and the composition of each layer.

 

"And to avoid West Crater Rim as it's a high avy site"."

.....It is not a high avy site but has higher avy potential then the south slope. There is a difference. I have been on the slope in a low avy condition. It gets crosswinds and pillows that can remain for a long time after a storm.

 

Hope this helps

[ivan]

hippos - are you our celebrity hood accident of the month at the moment? hope not...

[lbeam]

I was just beginning to think the same....is this you guys?

[hippos_are_evil]

Nope, not us. I was safe at the coast drinking whiskey and watching K2! I'll be waiting for clearer weather and good snow before I go up.

 

Sam

[Cobra_Commander]

Clearer weather??? You idiots. It's best to climb Hood in marginal weather like today, with a forecast for no letup of dumpage in sight.

[billcoe]

Clearer weather??? You idiots. It's best to climb Hood in marginal weather like today, with a forecast for no letup of dumpage in sight.

 

You are correct as always Cobra, but the real question remains: what color MLU will color co-ordinate best with the new Scholler coat ya just got at the REI sale the day before?

[billbob]

Glad to hear you didn't go, Sam. Sucks to forget the GPS or wands in winter weather. I would never do something that stupid. More than once, I mean.

[sobo]

...Illumination saddle is an amazing location for a cave, just build on the west side on the snow ridge, dont go onto the Reid side...

 

This seems contradictory to me. The Reid Glacier is on the west side of I Saddle.

 

Other folks have mentioned the wind that funnels through the col at I Saddle. You could avoid it altogether by digging in on the Reid side, or dig in on the Palmer side and orient the entrance such that it doesn't act as an jet intake and you'll be fine.