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Save the planet, climb local


G-spotter

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When I moved to the Valley 6 years ago I pretty much kept on climbing a lot at Squamish and Lillooet. I didn't have any climbing partners out here so I was mostly climbing with Vancouver folks anyway and there was hardly any climbing known out in these parts except for Slesse.

 

Now 6 years later I still climb in Lillooet and Squamish but only when the Valley isn't in for whatever reason. Undoubtedly the climbing in Squamish is better than the valley... I made a list while thinking about a guidebook and there are something like 300 "crag" routes between Surrey and Hope, which is like as many as just the Smoke Bluffs. But the more we crag out here the more there are and there are lots of FAs :tup:

 

There are more boulders in Hope than in all of Squamish. But only about 1% of the developed boulders.

 

For a couple weeks (maybe two, maybe three) a year there's more ice in Hope than in Lillooet. And probably half of it is still unclimbed. But really, considering stuff like Box Canyon, you can climb local ice even if it's raining in Hope.

 

Alpine wise the mountains around here are pretty good. Every time I cross one thing off my alpine to do list it seems like three more get added. :)

 

So the point of this is not to brag about how rad my local area is but just to say how good climbing local can be. Travel less and climb at home more everybody. Lets hear it for/from all the other "local climbers" on cc.com :brew:

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Food in Hope is a mix, I've eaten at a couple good spots, but there are some places that are scary.

 

One time coming down from Yak I watched Mark M eat a whole block of cheese by himself. When we got to Hope we went out to a restaurant for dinner and Mark ate a big steak dinner. Mark's not a fat guy at all. I was impressed with his performance.

Edited by AlpineK
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A couple summers ago I spent a lot of time climbing in the Green Creek Valley. Definitely a beautiful place, but the rock is typically only OK, the climbs are generally short and the approach is not neccesarily pleasant. However it was all less than 30 miles drive from my front door. What a relief to spend only 45 minutes in the car verses 3+ hours.

140green_creek.jpg

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Living in Chilliwatts also provides numerous opportunities for stumbling across clandestine meth labs, smoldering piles of burned furniture and major appliances, as well as living (and dead or almost dead) crank-fueled sub-human mongrel hookers. Be sure not to eat any "sausage" while you're up there!

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The plates mark the routes to the dead hooker burial sites/family picnic areas. Burned cars riddled with bullets mark the end of maintained roads. Burned appliances riddled with bullets mark the end of drivable roads. Trails are marked with totally random objects such as dead hooker clothing and purse contents, satanically mutilated Tickle Me Elmos hung from trees a la "Blair Witch Project", foldable TV dinner tables, or framed velvet paintings.

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Local Now: (approximately :snugtop:)

Walnut Canyon Overlook - 10 mins

Paradise Forks - 20 minutes

Priest's Draw - 20 minutes

Sedona Spires - 30-45 minutes

Queen Creek/Superstitions - 2 hours

Grand Canyon - 2 hours

Mt. Lemmon - 4 hours

Canyonlands - 4 hours

Red Rocks - 4 hours

Moab - 5 Hours

City Of Rocks - 5 hours

Joshua Tree - 6 hours

Bishop - 7 hours

Hueco Tanks - 8 hours

Salt Lake City - 8 hours

 

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Local Now: (approximately :snugtop:)

Walnut Canyon Overlook - 10 mins

Paradise Forks - 20 minutes

Priest's Draw - 20 minutes

Sedona Spires - 30-45 minutes

Queen Creek/Superstitions - 2 hours

Grand Canyon - 2 hours

Mt. Lemmon - 4 hours

Canyonlands - 4 hours

Red Rocks - 4 hours

Moab - 5 Hours

City Of Rocks - 5 hours

Joshua Tree - 6 hours

Bishop - 7 hours

Hueco Tanks - 8 hours

Salt Lake City - 8 hours

 

 

Arent you forgeting Jacks Canyon? I love that place. I could care less about the grades, I just love the place itself.

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Oregon has some fun, albeit obscure cragging around the Willamette Valley. After my 3000th trip to smith, it was nice to go some place that was close and empty. The guidebook descriptions are often way more interesting/vague too, making just getting to the climb that much more exciting.

Menagerie Wilderness,

Wolf Rock,

Columns,

The Garden,

Broughtons,

The list goes on...

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