Jens Posted December 17, 2006 Share Posted December 17, 2006 Headed out to Banks Lake with Mizuki today. We weren't going to go because it has been above freezing for much of the week and it was 37F for most of the day yesterday. Roads: Very good shape Route Conditions: On the way in, after seeing champagne and the cable, we were very depressed and thought it would be a dry tooling only day (lame) but it turned out to be a stellar day of ice. First the bad news: Champagne: Has fallen down-all bare rock except for about 25 feet at the base. Cable: Disconnected smears of ice with long stretches of bare rock. H202: Has snapped off -------------- Now the good news: We climbed around and rapped in and climbed the upper half of Zenith. It was as perfect as ice gets. Not brittle, not wet, not arrerated. Steep perfection. The Lower portion that we bypassed has snapped off. We then each soloed the Devil's Punchbowl. On the right side it was good ice and not to wet. Lots of ice here -this climb has enough volume to survive any heat wave until spring. We then climbed Phase Transition. OK sticks but screws were psychological only. Felt the upper pillar settle while I was leading. The water table seepage patterns at this place are radically different from year to year at Banks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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