scott Posted October 5, 2002 Posted October 5, 2002 any thoughts on what routes are accessible, which of these are safest (least threatened from avalanche) etc? Quote
To_The_Top Posted October 5, 2002 Posted October 5, 2002 2nd the Gib ledge, and possibly Ingraham Direct via cadaver gap, once the snow stablizes. Quote
Off_White Posted October 5, 2002 Posted October 5, 2002 Cadaver Gap is at a really swell angle for avalanches. In the wrong conditions, I think there are no safe routes. Start from Paradise with a good weather window and go fast. The hut at Muir is much more attractive in the winter than in the summer. Quote
mattp Posted October 5, 2002 Posted October 5, 2002 Any of the south side routes are relatively accessible and, in general, will tend to "set up" after a new snowfall more quickly than routes facing away from the sun. The Gib Ledges route utilizes the standard approach to Camp Muir and then follows the shortest route to the summit, but it is more exposed then the Ingraham (people fall off of it once in a while and I have not heard of similar falls on the Ingraham) and the ledges are subject to bombardment by rock and ice fall on sunny days, while the Ingraham is more prone to a lingering avalanche hazard. In some ways, a winter ascent can be easier than a summer ascent, with the glaciers more filled in and with approaches made on skis rather than on rock piles. Quote
scott Posted October 5, 2002 Author Posted October 5, 2002 thanks. any input/ stories appreciated... Quote
Noway Posted October 6, 2002 Posted October 6, 2002 Winter is actually the best time to attempt the Gib Ledge if you don't mind climbing, traversing steep exposed snow.(ledges are snow covered) Return via Ingraham Direct, Cadaver gap, that way you avoid potential rockfall and downclimbing steep shit. Quote
Jason_Martin Posted October 12, 2002 Posted October 12, 2002 March with nice long days is still winter on Rainier... This is a great time to do Gib Ledges. More likely than not you'll be the only party in the muir hut. Â Jason Quote
Fence_Sitter Posted October 13, 2002 Posted October 13, 2002 cadaver gap is good if the snow sets up...it is a really nice direct route that doesn't see much action... Quote
MtnHigh Posted October 13, 2002 Posted October 13, 2002 Attempted the Nisqually Ice fall route in Dec 2001. The route seemed pretty straight forward, the icefall was predominately buried in snow, so little or no technical climbing was involved. However, we turned back at around 11,500' after watching two seperate avalanches sweep down the Nisqually Cleaver. Got the hell out of there quick. Quote
thelawgoddess Posted October 13, 2002 Posted October 13, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Noway: Winter is actually the best time to attempt the Gib Ledge just curious how you define "winter" ... and is earlier or later generally best? Quote
Noway Posted October 13, 2002 Posted October 13, 2002 QUOTE]just curious how you define "winter" ... and is earlier or later generally best?[/QB Â Late winter, early spring, just wait for felicitous weather conditions and go for it. Quote
Smoker Posted October 13, 2002 Posted October 13, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Fence Sitter: cadaver gap is good if the snow sets up...it is a really nice direct route that doesn't see much action... I agree, I have done it twice, (once in winter, once in spring) If conditions are good and firm, it is a great line to the Ingraham Direct. Quote
North_by_Northwest Posted October 14, 2002 Posted October 14, 2002 Are there any winter ski descent routes that are relatively safe? Â I am thinking of doing Gib's Ledges in winter and I would like to ski off too if possible. I've heard that there are some good lines in the spring but haven't heard much about February and March. Anyone done it? Quote
Fence_Sitter Posted October 14, 2002 Posted October 14, 2002 i could see cadaver gap bein niiiiiice...drop into that lil steeper section and ride all the way into muir...yah... short though Quote
North_by_Northwest Posted October 14, 2002 Posted October 14, 2002 Thanks for the information. I'll have to start scoping in the next couple months; study some topos and hike up to Muir and check it out. Quote
tread_tramp Posted October 15, 2002 Posted October 15, 2002 My first trip up Rainier went by way of Cadaver Gap and the Ingraham Glacier early in january(88'). We had had six days of clear weather previous to this new years weekend climb, which did much to stabilize conditions. Although we needed snowshoes to reach Muir, conditions were rather icy once we got above the Gap. Â [ 10-14-2002, 11:13 PM: Message edited by: tread tramp ] Quote
savaiusini Posted October 15, 2002 Posted October 15, 2002 The Ingraham Glacier or even the Nisqually Icefall can be good ski descents in the winter. The later being a bit more committing. Then there's the obvious stuff like the Finger or the Kautz if they look good...But looks can be deceiving! Quote
snafflehound Posted October 15, 2002 Posted October 15, 2002 A friend and I summitted Jan. 1st '88' via Cadaver Gap. Were you the other party up there? Quote
tread_tramp Posted October 15, 2002 Posted October 15, 2002 We were a party of three. Someone had gone up Cadaver Gap the day Before us and very kindly kicked the steps that we followed. If that was you thanks a lot. Apparently someone in that party had leather boots and didn't make it because of frostbite on six toes. So at least part of that party turned back. Were you in that group. I think also that there was someone who came down the Nisqually Chute very late and had us all worried for a while. Â [ 10-15-2002, 09:28 AM: Message edited by: tread tramp ] Quote
snafflehound Posted October 21, 2002 Posted October 21, 2002 Yer welcome for the steps TT. On Jan.1st two parties set out for the top. A friend and I thru Cadaver Gap and another group of 3 via the D.C. The other guys made it to around 13000 and turned around because of frozen feet. We had talked to them before leaving the hut about their leather boots not being warm enough but they decided to go for it anyway. I had the feeling they weren’t from around here and only had one crack at the mtn. in winter. They were moving pretty good and would have topped out but for their footwear. It was pretty damn cold out. I learned the importance of insulated briefs that day :-} The guy with the frozen toes was wearing Raichle Eigers. He was in a lot of pain going down from Muir. By the time he got to the Ranger station 1/8 inch flesh had sluffed off the ends of his toes. As for my friend and I, we summitted and came down via Gib chute. We had to wait till the bombing from Gibralter subsided a few hours after dark before we could drop down it. I remember being pretty bonked when we finally got to the hut as I had eaten and drank very little during the day. I mentioned the trip in a post last February.[sorry, don’t know how to link] I’m impressed that your first climb of Rainier was in the winter. It’s much more exciting than joining the herds in the summer isn’t it. Way to go Quote
Chepe Posted October 23, 2002 Posted October 23, 2002 I hear Willis Wall is a great winter climb Quote
Greg_W Posted October 23, 2002 Posted October 23, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Chepe: I hear Willis Wall is a great winter climb Isn't that a walkup? Quote
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