Gary_Yngve Posted May 5, 2006 Share Posted May 5, 2006 I was at Smith last weekend under beautiful sunny skies. We never had to wait in line! Five-Gallon Buckets, no big deal, just show up at 7:30 AM. Walked by Cinnamon Slab mid-morning; no one on it. Didn't have to wait for Lion's Jaw, Karate Crack, Moonshine Dihedral, Phoenix, Spiderman, Screaming Yellow Zonkers... I thought it would have been super-crowded. What gives? We didn't check out the Marsupials or Gorge. It seemed the majority of clusters of people were beneath 5.8 bolted routes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dechristo Posted May 5, 2006 Share Posted May 5, 2006 I believe most neophytes are beneath 5.8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyHarry Posted May 5, 2006 Share Posted May 5, 2006 Too bad more people weren't there, maybe you could have gotten a rescue from your epic bivy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted May 5, 2006 Share Posted May 5, 2006 It seemed the majority of clusters of people were beneath 5.8 bolted routes. there you go ... "5.8" + "bolted" = crowded Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted May 5, 2006 Share Posted May 5, 2006 Five-Gallon Buckets, no big deal, just show up at 7:30 AM. And it's so convenient too, once you finish descending from Solar Slab at 7:15 AM after starting up the climb at 5 PM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_Yngve Posted May 5, 2006 Author Share Posted May 5, 2006 So there simply aren't many trad climbers? Or the trad climbers are likely to be out skiing or alpine as well? It just seems that when you're at Index on a weekend (or even a sunny weekday late afternoon), it seems it's almost expected that there will be at least two parties on GNS and a party on Godzilla. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stefan Posted May 5, 2006 Share Posted May 5, 2006 Trad climbers really have no money. They can't get there when gas costs $3 a gallon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted May 5, 2006 Share Posted May 5, 2006 I think you just got lucky, I've seen a steady stream on most of those routes on Fall weekends. Certainly Spiderman is still the mega-classic 5.7 crack down there and gets lots of attention. Hot tip: it goes as all one wonderful pitch with a 60m rope. Trezlar is usually empty though, I think it might have gotten a bit of reputation after that fatal accident years ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted May 5, 2006 Share Posted May 5, 2006 Do you think Super Slab will acquire a 'reputation' after the recent horrific unplanned bivi? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dechristo Posted May 5, 2006 Share Posted May 5, 2006 Stone Phillips is shooting a documentary of the epic bivy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted May 5, 2006 Share Posted May 5, 2006 Oh, I believe it has a reputation already. I've overheard a number of people fretting about the terrifying traverse on P2, shown here with the charming Snowbyrd, and thoughful backrope provided by Thinker. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted May 5, 2006 Share Posted May 5, 2006 (edited) Trezlar is usually empty though, I think it might have gotten a bit of reputation after that fatal accident years ago. If you're thinking of the double fatality of the Outward bound instructors on Trezlar in 1986, those people did it to themselves. 100% Was there another one? That's a great 2nd crux pitch, very well protected. ____________________________________________________ Like Gary, although I rarely get to Smith, sometimes it amazes me to show up wanting to climb midrange cracks and see them pretty much empty. Parking lot is full. I wonder if it's just maybe more people are climbing in the gorge on those days, coupled with less people wanting to climb cracks? (see Garys thread on Karate Crack hangdogging) BTW Dru, what do you say about the recent infomation which suggests that the "alledged" unplanned bivy on Amphetimine Grip may have been a planned attempt to get on Super Slab at 5:00 am to avoid the crowds. Edited May 5, 2006 by billcoe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted May 5, 2006 Share Posted May 5, 2006 doesn't smith have a reputation as being a sport climbing area? if you wanted to trad crag climb, would you go to smith, or somewhere else? isn't smith a pile of mud? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted May 5, 2006 Share Posted May 5, 2006 BTW Dru, what do you say about the recent infomation which suggests that the "alledged" unplanned bivy on Amphetimine Grip may have been a planned attempt to get on Super Slab at 5:00 am to avoid the crowds. I think it was more of an "unplanned" attempt to get OFF Super Slab. But you are right, it could have actually been a spectacularly unsuccessful attempt to 'reserve' Dances With Clams for the day by setting an early TR on it in advance of Gary's Mountie group showing up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpinfox Posted May 5, 2006 Share Posted May 5, 2006 ... if you wanted to trad crag climb, would you go to smith, or somewhere else? isn't smith a pile of mud? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted May 6, 2006 Share Posted May 6, 2006 never had to wait to climb sky chimney or white velvet - both excellent moderate trad routes - fact i've only seen 2 or 3 parties ever climb those - a great vantage point to gawk at the horror-fuck-fest in the main area Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlag Posted May 7, 2006 Share Posted May 7, 2006 It's White Satin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted May 8, 2006 Share Posted May 8, 2006 satin's fir pussies! velvet - now there's a man's fabric... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted May 8, 2006 Share Posted May 8, 2006 Best 5.8 pitch in Oregon! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted May 16, 2006 Share Posted May 16, 2006 crowd·ed (krou'did) pronunciation adj. 1. Filled near or to capacity: a crowded bus. 2. Filled with a crowd: a crowded plaza. 3. Filled to such an extent as to be detrimental to the inhabitants: “By the mid-1800s children were being transported on ‘orphan trains’ from crowded eastern slums and institutions to the West” (Mary-Lou Weisman). I'm pretty sure this definition applies in Oregon too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.