Routes that have gotten way easier/harder

[Jens]

Any routes come to mind that have gotten way easier or way harder? rock, ice, or alpine?

Holds that have broken, water tables that have changed, lichen that has worn away, key holds that have gotten polished, gear that is now fixed,or crevasse patterns that have changed?

Any rock routes jump two number grades up or down ever around here?

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It's raining right now and I'm glad I stayed home today.

[wayne]

East Whilmans Spire comes to mind.

[eric8]

liberty crack- the aid is almost entirely fixed

 

and not sure if it counts but routes like the north face of shuskan which are hikes know become ice climbs by late season

[Drederek]

The Bolted Flake in Tenino looks a little bit more difficult these days. 20' of nice layback flake are now a 6" ledge with 20' of Rurp seam angling up across a vertical face.

[G-spotter]

Diedre has gotten so polished over the years. It feels way less secure now than it did when I first led it. I've soloed Banana Peel 40 or 50 times and Calculus Crack a buncxh, but only Diedre once and I would hesitate to solo it now.

[Lowell_Skoog]

Harder: Mt St Helens from the north.

Easier: Mt St Helens from the south.

 

[DPS]

Apparently Liberty Ridge has gotten harder because when I did it 10 years ago it only took 30 hours car to car and was pretty moderate. Now it takes 5 days and is "potentially one of the toughest routes in the lower 48".

[Alpinfox]

Apparently Liberty Ridge has gotten harder because when I did it 10 years ago it only took 30 hours car to car and was pretty moderate. Now it takes 5 days and is "potentially one of the toughest routes in the lower 48".

 

30 hours CTC in winter?

[Alpinfox]

One of the old timers on this board could say more about this, but Pisces at Index (the steep handcrack on GNS) used to be much easier (5.8??) before a block fell off making the very start of it 5.10-.

 

There is a cool picture of Diane Dailey climbing it on the cover of Beckey's Darrington/Index guide (1976) with the block in place.

 

That massive rockfall on the Girth Pillar must have changed the route significantly?

[olyclimber]

Gunsight Peak? which i suppose is the inspiration for this thread

 

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/s...true#Post567744

[G-spotter]

The Trigger Finger at Peshastin?

[Tony_Bentley]

Apparently Liberty Ridge has gotten harder because when I did it 10 years ago it only took 30 hours car to car and was pretty moderate. Now it takes 5 days and is "potentially one of the toughest routes in the lower 48".

 

Huh. The last party I know of to have climbed it, did it in a day. I think if you are from midwestern or southern states it could take that long though.

[Tony_Bentley]

Oly, have you attempted Gunsight? I think the approach is what makes it tough. Especially Bachelor Creek with overnight, glacier and rock equpiment(with pins and bolt kit). Once you are at the base with the proper equipment and ability to send you could be good to go. I am speculating though, since I have only looked at it from Dome Col.

[olyclimber]

I haven't....but I was just reading about the east face route in Jim's Selected Volume II, cool picture...looked like it was a cool 5.9. Too bad or good thing its gone now...too bad you can't climb it, but I would have not wanted to ride those blocks down. Jim has no mention of it being loose.

 

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/s...true#Post223231

[genepires]

price glacier on shuksan. used to be "classic", now a rubble field. never been on it but has anyone here been on it or heard of anyone? global warming.

 

the black slab pitch on sw rib sews used to be licheny but now you can see the boot path from below. did it late 90's and it was still licheny and unsure where to go. now, follow the trail.

 

used to remember there being more bail v threads in the can rockies but now i can't find very much anymore. standards (people) have gotten too good for bailing. maybe less single rope use. so anyway, less free protection mid pitch, therefore a little harder. yeah, reaching.

 

next 20 years, our ice climbing will be much harder when it is all sick little pencils.

 

aren't most mixed climbs getting easier when it is all scratched up and obvious?

 

Fisher chimneys used to be really mellow in the 90's. (did it four times over 6 years) Went through it 6 years ago and it was much more broken up and almost impassable (reg glacier travel wise) in a couple places. not sure about recently.

 

n face athabasca is gettin harder due to ice recession

[John Frieh]

Oly, have you attempted Gunsight? I think the approach is what makes it tough. Especially Bachelor Creek with overnight, glacier and rock equpiment(with pins and bolt kit). Once you are at the base with the proper equipment and ability to send you could be good to go. I am speculating though, since I have only looked at it from Dome Col.

 

 

I remember once upon a time thinking that too.

[John Frieh]

Though the rock fall off the girth pillar in the early 90's did not alter/change the 11c rating on Nelson/Lewis's line on the Girth Pillar a more direct variation exists right next to it that feels more like 10d/11a

[G-spotter]

does the grade depend on how many neutrinos you find?

[John Frieh]

Keep it in spray

[G-spotter]

That was a serious question! I'm figuring with a switch to Camp Nanos the grade might drop to 10c/d.

[zaugg]

no mention of DAS EIGER NORDWAND???

[EWolfe]

Endless beta has downgraded the Tooth.

 

Except for my Dad's FA variation.

[zaugg]

Easier -

Bonatti and American Direct, les Drus.

 

climb pile of rubble.

[EWolfe]

Dru's always been easy.

[zaugg]

But has trouble keeping it up...