Washington Crack Workshop

[TrogdortheBurninator]

Slaphappy,

 

Nice list. What about Poison Ivy Crack as well as the afformentioned other 8 mile rock cracks.

 

Since this is a workshop and not just a tick list, I really like the idea of listing routes by specific (or crux) technique required. Hiking classic crack won't necessarily prep you for 5.9 fingers or OW. I think ideally (if Oly can do it) the list should try to have 2+ climbs per grade per area per technique when possible. Based on my limited experience at Tieton, this seems very possible there given the variety of cracks. At LW, easy finger cracks are a little harder to find for example, but knowing them would provide some real utility to the list.

 

OOPS, dont forget crack

Edited November 28, 2005 by TrogdortheBurninator

[slaphappy]

Yup, Poison Ivy should be in there. As for the other shizzle near Classic Crack, it falls mostly into the "suck" category IMO...

 

I will edit and add technique.

[MCash]

Tieton:

 

5.7 - Mushmaker - Hand / fist.

5.8 - Ed's Jamb - 150 foot of 5.8 hands.

5.9 - Inca Roads - Fists to Fingers.

5.10A - MX - 150 foot of bitchen 5.10A fingers.

5.10B - Orange Sunshine - Fingers.

5.10C - Pure Joy - Thin Fingers and Liebacking.

[chelle]

In Leavenworth I'd add Spaghetti 5.8 on Icicle Buttress.

 

In Squamish:

Mosquito 5.7/Phlegmish Dance 5.8

Klahanie Crack 5.7

High Mountain Woodie 5.9

Calculus Crack 5.8

Vector 5.8

Rock On 5.8/5.9/5.10

Flying Circus 5.10

Quarryman 5.8

Davy Jones Locker 5.6

Cold Comfort 5.9

The Zip 5.10

Haven't climbed it but I hear Birds of Prey 5.8-5.10 is awesome.

[RuMR]

BOP sure isn't "5.10"...

[chelle]

Hhmm...if you look at the guidebook there is one pitch of 5.10a and a pitch of 10b. But since you're such a WA hardman Rudy, I guess it's a walk in the park.

[fern]

Birds of Prey is a sneaky sandbag. I got schooled even with the TR

[chucK]

Octupus's Garden (all of 'em)

St. Vitus

I guess these would be in the 8/9 category

 

I don't know if I'd send someone "working" on 5.8 up the South Face of Jello Tower (maybe if they were graduating 5.8).

 

And what about Angel Crack, that's a good workshop item for 9+/10-

 

Oh, and Plum Pudding did not seem difficult for 5.9 (compared to, say, DH p1 or Roger's Corner), but I've only followed it, so it could be TR bravery talking.

[RuMR]

Hhmm...if you look at the guidebook there is one pitch of 5.10a and a pitch of 10b. But since you're such a WA hardman Rudy, I guess it's a walk in the park.

well, maybe we can agree that it isn't a "washington" 5.10 then?

[slaphappy]

my list has been edited, thanks.

[telemarker]

Other Leavenworth honorable mentions:

 

P2 Reg Route Careno: 5.7 easy thin hands workout;

p3 Reg Route Dbl Cracks: 5.8 stemming workout;

The Arch: 5.8 undercling, foot smearing workout;

Forking Crack: 5.9 balancy trust your feet workout after some fun hands;

P1 Rambling Man: 5.9 chimney workout;

P3 Bale/Kramer Careno: 5.10 comprehensive Face, Fingers, Hands, Fist workshop all in one short crack pitch;

Pearly Gates: 5.10 off fingers workout to start, then chimney moves to hands;

 

Finally, Damnation Crack: What DON'T you do on this crack?

[eric8]

in the spirit of crack workshop you might have to take of pitches 2 and 3 of the rg route. Since you have to climb a 10b pitch to reach them. and the idea is repoint all the 5.7's than all the 5.8's

[chucK]

I did a quick search and I can't believe noone has included The Lizard (aka Aries) as 5.8 crack climb. You get a couple moves of fist, a couple moves of finger, a couple moves of chimney, then a rad undercling to exposed off hands! That thing oughta be called 5.8 crack 101!

 

Maybe not a "graduation" climb, `cause each piece is so short, but an excellent "sampler".

 

And I noticed some have mentioned "GNS fist crack" which probably refers to the first pitchlet.

Edited December 15, 2005 by chucK

[telemarker]

in the spirit of crack workshop you might have to take of pitches 2 and 3 of the rg route. Since you have to climb a 10b pitch to reach them. and the idea is repoint all the 5.7's than all the 5.8's

 

Actually, you can traverse in over easy 5th ground from the south via the slanting 5.7 crack near the start of the Bale/Kramer to get to the 2nd pitch of Regular Route. I'll grant you, getting to that pitch probably doesn't warrant that, but it is possible.

 

One can also hike to the 3rd pitch Reg Route 5.8 stemming pitch I mentioned easily enough over 3rd class ledges, from the north side of Careno Crag, bypassing the 1st 5.10b pitch.

[slaphappy]

telemarker-

 

Good additions! P3 of Bale Kramar is the money, P4 is good too. P1/2, well...

 

Is Ramblin Man worth the hike for a workshop? I climbed a few of the other routes there but not it.

 

I left Pearly Gates off the list cause of the cheater bolt but edited it in. Same with P1 of the Reg. Route.

 

Damnation was already on the list, a must do.

 

Have you done Crack du Jour? it might be a good addition... how about Sunrise Crack?

 

-

[olyclimber]

bump....good thread.

[Weekend_Climberz]

Shit yeah! I just printed a bunch of shit off for the weekend. I am so suck!

[jmace]

BOP sure isn't "5.10"...

 

Shit I found the "10b" hand crack to be harder than 5.9 thats for sure..

[Blake]

Penny Lane in Squish for 5.9

[Peter_Puget]

This list seems to have morphed into a listing of fun crack routes at sorted by rating. Shouldn’t the routes be chosen for their learning potential. EG: Sag doesn’t really have a whole lot of jamming on it. Iron Horse should be on the list if only because of its ease to TR. Same with Clay. Pressure Drop is the perfect “classroom” Easy to TR; great pro for leading. Real jamming required. After you master it with the hand/foot pods stop using them. Rapping the DH? Stop off to TR p1 of Green Dragon. (or one of the routes to the right.)

[Squid]

Nice contribution.

 

 

Shit, I might actually get motivated to organize this list.

[billcoe]

Going from memory- and I don't get to Smith much: (wine binge after work, I'll try to fill in some blanks later). Eveyone thinks Smith is all about bolt clipping, but there's some great cracks there, my list and I'll dress it up later.

 

 

5.6

Cinnamon slab

Super Slab

Moscow

 

5.7

Spiderman

Lions chair or maybe it's Lions Jaw -the 5.7 one.

1st pitch of Trezlar (Scratch this, it's part slab)

Lycopodopha (awesome now that the loose stuff is gone)

 

5.8

West Face Variaton on the Monkee

Last pitch of Zebra Zion

3rd pitch of Picnic Lunch wall

2nd pitch of White Satin (abite a little strange to climb over a pinacle at the end)

 

 

5.9

Moonshine (this use to be 5.8 and may still be once you get off the ground)

ummmmmmmmm

White Satin 3nd/final pitch

Peking (it's 9 not 8.)

King Kong ( this would be the graduation excercise)

 

5.10a

Karate Crack

Route up on Standers ridge....

Trezlar p2, best route at Smith.

New Testament, good pro with the crux up high so if you biff you get scraped, not pancaked.

 

 

5.10b

Monkee Farce

Pack Animal Direct

 

5.10C

Lions chair p1

 

 

5.10D Last Pitch of Abraxas, rap down to it.

Probably something else.

 

5.11a

Crack on the East side of Monkee Face (the one closest to Pioneer route-not the real east face)

Chairman Maos little red book (but too short)

Lions Chair P2

 

5.11b

Wartleys (thanks Rumr)

 

5.11c

Shoes of the Fisherman

 

5.11D

Sunshine Dihedral, great route. (ps, this use to be 5.12, I can't think of any current Smith 5.12's which I have done that would be recommended cracks.

 

 

I think that good pro and a real crack would be prime criteria, at least for my list. There's probably more but that will get you started.

 

It took me two beer glasses of wine to type that list out so show a little appreciation eh? Rumr has different grades on Wartleys and Shoes, I'd go with his.

Edited May 3, 2006 by billcoe

[RuMR]

i think you're thinking of Wartley's....11a

 

shoes is .11b

 

You should add to your list rising expectations and the other 12a finger crack on the monkey...

[G-spotter]

he's got rising on there as an 11a, but not by name

[RuMR]

hmmm...that's pretty stiff for .11a...