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[TR] Blood on the Cracks - IV 10d R


olyclimber

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Climb: Undisclosed Location - Blood on the Grade Cracks - IV 10d R

 

Date of Climb: 8/13/2005

 

Trip Report:

Sick of hearing about all the poser wannabees posting their little climbs and beating their chests, Alpinfox and I headed out to climb in a new secret climbing spot in the Cascades that is so cool, mainly because you don't know about it and it is so hard you'll never climb it. It was dark stormy night, and the forecast didn't look good, so we headed out. We drove all night, and because neither of us had slept for days, we did caffienated GU shots and washed them down with Starbucks Frappacinos which were chilled in the cooler. When we reached the secret location that you'll never know about, we grabbed our packs and started hiking at a pace that would make your couch potato heart explode.

The approach:

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We climbed over 4 passes, and then stopped for breakfast. GU shots and diet pills hit the spot, and we upped the pace.

Pass #3:

4342IMG_1984_sized.jpg

We couldn't resist snagging the FAs on a few peaks we passed on the trip up to our climb:

summit.jpg

Finally we hit the techical rock, and I let Alpinfox lead up the first 6 pitches:

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This pitch was followed by some face climbing:

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I took the next 7 pitches:

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Alpinfox on the false summit:

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The views were great:

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Finally, at 2am and 11 pitches later, we reached the true summit:

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On the summit we called AAJ and Alpinist magazine with our sat phone to report our incredible climb.

We then rapped off into the dark:

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It was truely a special time out in the alpine, but one that only a few people can appreciate, because this accomplishment is truly at a level that 99% of you couldn't even comprehend. We called our climb "Blood on the Cracks", as Alpinfox is a big Dylan fan, and I lost three pints in early in the climb when I got gashed on the wrist by rockfall. It goes at Grade IV 10d R.

 

 

Gear Notes:

If you don't know what to bring, you shouldn't be up there in the first place.

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i can't tell exactly why and how but it seems like you are pulling our collective leg. for example, it's obvious the descent sees a fair amount of traffic from the boot packed rap station. i'll bet it's not so obscure and it's right in our backyard ....hmmm

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