olyclimber Posted August 17, 2005 Share Posted August 17, 2005 Climb: Undisclosed Location - Blood on the Grade Cracks - IV 10d R Date of Climb: 8/13/2005 Trip Report: Sick of hearing about all the poser wannabees posting their little climbs and beating their chests, Alpinfox and I headed out to climb in a new secret climbing spot in the Cascades that is so cool, mainly because you don't know about it and it is so hard you'll never climb it. It was dark stormy night, and the forecast didn't look good, so we headed out. We drove all night, and because neither of us had slept for days, we did caffienated GU shots and washed them down with Starbucks Frappacinos which were chilled in the cooler. When we reached the secret location that you'll never know about, we grabbed our packs and started hiking at a pace that would make your couch potato heart explode. The approach: We climbed over 4 passes, and then stopped for breakfast. GU shots and diet pills hit the spot, and we upped the pace. Pass #3: We couldn't resist snagging the FAs on a few peaks we passed on the trip up to our climb: Finally we hit the techical rock, and I let Alpinfox lead up the first 6 pitches: This pitch was followed by some face climbing: I took the next 7 pitches: Alpinfox on the false summit: The views were great: Finally, at 2am and 11 pitches later, we reached the true summit: On the summit we called AAJ and Alpinist magazine with our sat phone to report our incredible climb. We then rapped off into the dark: It was truely a special time out in the alpine, but one that only a few people can appreciate, because this accomplishment is truly at a level that 99% of you couldn't even comprehend. We called our climb "Blood on the Cracks", as Alpinfox is a big Dylan fan, and I lost three pints in early in the climb when I got gashed on the wrist by rockfall. It goes at Grade IV 10d R. Gear Notes: If you don't know what to bring, you shouldn't be up there in the first place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cobra_Commander Posted August 17, 2005 Share Posted August 17, 2005 only 10 backups? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted August 17, 2005 Share Posted August 17, 2005 Tree killer! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted August 17, 2005 Share Posted August 17, 2005 to climb in a new secret climbing spot in the Cascades that is so cool, mainly because you don't know about it. It's near Bellingham, right? Or Enumclaw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted August 17, 2005 Share Posted August 17, 2005 Or Renton? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mec Posted August 17, 2005 Share Posted August 17, 2005 nice top-ropes you had setup there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cobra_Commander Posted August 17, 2005 Share Posted August 17, 2005 Rye Crisp? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spicoli11 Posted August 17, 2005 Share Posted August 17, 2005 that looks like new jersey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knotzen Posted August 17, 2005 Share Posted August 17, 2005 Good TR. I can only aspire to be as good a lia--er, climber as you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted August 17, 2005 Author Share Posted August 17, 2005 What are you talking about knotzen? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knotzen Posted August 17, 2005 Share Posted August 17, 2005 What? I'm just saying, you're really accomplished at it. I could never reach your level. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Billygoat Posted August 17, 2005 Share Posted August 17, 2005 You guys inspire me to get off my lazy ass and head to the bathroom to drop the kids off at the pool Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpinfox Posted August 17, 2005 Share Posted August 17, 2005 Man what an awesome trip! Here are a few more pics: Another shot from the approach: More views: One of the easy pitches: Somewhere on pitch 10: The REAL summit: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squid Posted August 17, 2005 Share Posted August 17, 2005 Hell, I guess everything's all climbed out around here. Anyone want to buy an old used rack? 2 kbs, 1 bong, a sawed-off RURP and 1 meter of webbing. $5 takes the whole bundle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pandora Posted August 17, 2005 Share Posted August 17, 2005 Rye Crisp? Looks like Poison Balance in L-worth to me... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ducknut Posted August 17, 2005 Share Posted August 17, 2005 (edited) is a pink rope required? Which windshirt is that? Does it have pockets for Neutrinos? Would a Petzl headlamp be more appropriate than that heavy BD? Edited August 17, 2005 by Ducknut Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted August 17, 2005 Author Share Posted August 17, 2005 Another scenery shot: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squid Posted August 17, 2005 Share Posted August 17, 2005 I'd heard there were good chickenheads on that pitch. could you tie 'em off for pro? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j_b Posted August 17, 2005 Share Posted August 17, 2005 i can't tell exactly why and how but it seems like you are pulling our collective leg. for example, it's obvious the descent sees a fair amount of traffic from the boot packed rap station. i'll bet it's not so obscure and it's right in our backyard ....hmmm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairweather Posted August 17, 2005 Share Posted August 17, 2005 ...you're a genius, j_b! I was just thinking the same thing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomtom Posted August 17, 2005 Share Posted August 17, 2005 Blood on the Cracks - IV 10d R a.k.a. Da Toof/South Face Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted August 17, 2005 Author Share Posted August 17, 2005 WTF...bunch of player hater poser wannabees? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j_b Posted August 17, 2005 Share Posted August 17, 2005 ...you're a genius, j_b! I was just thinking the same thing! LOL this is getting good! i quoted you on that because i thought it should be preserved for posterity ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
archenemy Posted August 17, 2005 Share Posted August 17, 2005 Hell, I guess everything's all climbed out around here. Anyone want to buy an old used rack? 2 kbs, 1 bong, a sawed-off RURP and 1 meter of webbing. $5 takes the whole bundle. How much for just the bong? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Camilo Posted August 17, 2005 Share Posted August 17, 2005 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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