inacan Posted August 14, 2005 Posted August 14, 2005 (edited) http://homepage.mac.com/vertigo_tmr/PhotoAlbum5.html Here's a few pictures of the route...It's just to the left of the third pitch of Narrow Arrow. Not that I care, but for those that do, it was first "lead" solo aid, with the intention of making it a free climb. Aiding it was cool but not really any bolder then hiking up and rapping down from above on this one. It was a bit faster though, and took less over all effort. The second pitch climbs past two bolts up the arrete to the top of the Narrow Arrow spire. This was put up on lead. It is a great position on a fun arrete. The best way to get up there is to climb Godzilla then step right and climb another pitch up to a big ledge. This can be done in one long pitch from the ground. It goes at about 10c. Traverse the ledge to the right and step down to the anchors of Salad Fingers. "not a sport climb" -TC http://homepage.mac.com/vertigo_tmr/PhotoAlbum5.html Edited August 14, 2005 by inacan Quote
flashclimber Posted August 18, 2005 Posted August 18, 2005 Whats with the bolt? Is it old? Is the picture skewed in some way? Cause if he's hand jamming he should be able to place a cam. (Not trying to start something...just curious) Quote
Off_White Posted August 18, 2005 Posted August 18, 2005 I dunno, I can't see into the crack, but the "hand jam" comment looks to be a bit of satire? When he's clipped to the bolt, half his body is stuffed inside that thing. What's with the bolts on Kor-Ingalls on Castleton or Journey to Ixtlan in Red Rocks? Of course, maybe there's solid wrist locks in the back of that thing, but experience suggests that Inacan is a bit of a joker. Quote
pope Posted August 18, 2005 Posted August 18, 2005 That looks outstanding. But it appears protection is available near that bolt. Comments? Quote
glassgowkiss Posted August 20, 2005 Posted August 20, 2005 That looks outstanding. But it appears protection is available near that bolt. Comments? yeah, i have a comment you stupid asshole. why don't you go climb that thing and skip clipping the bolt and show us how it's done. all you do is post on this web page and keep shooting your fucking gob off about past glory days. even better- why don't you shove a gerbil up your ass and push it with a 10 inch dildo and shut the fuck up for a while. Quote
bwrts Posted August 21, 2005 Posted August 21, 2005 Classic for sure...I am impressed that mr inacan likes his new name so much that he uses it in the first photo. classic indeed. I am also amazed that this little bitty crack had to be retro-gardened in the middle of the summer and consequently ruined a bunch of climbers' day due to other party's selfishness. btw, the climbing does look fun but seriously is it really worth all the effort? I mean there is loads of clean rock all over the place...and don't give me the I don't have time rant.....climbing is a waste of time. Quote
soulreaper Posted August 22, 2005 Posted August 22, 2005 I'm surprised noone bothered to ask just what "Salad Fingers" is: www.fat-pie.com Quote
flashclimber Posted August 24, 2005 Posted August 24, 2005 I never did get an answer...anybody climb it lately. How big of pieces do u need to climb it...Hate to head up the route with too few large pieces...and could it be freed? Or can I French-aid some of it? I actually would like to climb it! Quote
EWolfe Posted August 25, 2005 Posted August 25, 2005 Tom is a crazy hard climber. Be ready for Index 5.12. Quote
Off_White Posted August 25, 2005 Posted August 25, 2005 Thanks for the link Soulreaper, it explains so much. Yesterday I found myself driving around town muttering about Jeremy Fisher. Quote
bobbyperu Posted September 10, 2005 Posted September 10, 2005 was on this route the other day and i gotta say its stupendous! just did the main pitch thru the roof,on tr, and its fuckin in your face! starts off cool enough, then gets techy with the reach around, into the main corner...past a fixed pin...then run-out to the bolt a ways...when hand-jam is mentioned its more like desperate flared hand-jam, and chimney style knee-bars and shit! no good pro... the final roof pull is strenuous... the arete above looked neat, but you can traverse and finish w/ the ow to the top of narrow arrow! Quote
sexual_chocolate Posted September 11, 2005 Posted September 11, 2005 Haven't been on it yet, but word is it's excellent and scary. The flare is supposedly hard to protect, hence the bolt. Why don't you whiners actually go climb something, and THEN comment? I get so sickened by the same 4 or 5 people dragging down every discussion with their incessant whining, when I know for a fact that they can't climb half the shit they bitch about. Yay internet: even self-righteous mediocrity gets a voice. Quote
sexual_chocolate Posted September 11, 2005 Posted September 11, 2005 Oh and by the way: Props Tom on a cool new route! I'm psyched (and scared!) to get on it! Quote
RuMR Posted September 12, 2005 Posted September 12, 2005 Haven't been on it yet, but word is it's excellent and scary. The flare is supposedly hard to protect, hence the bolt. Why don't you whiners actually go climb something, and THEN comment? I get so sickened by the same 4 or 5 people dragging down every discussion with their incessant whining, when I know for a fact that they can't climb half the shit they bitch about. Yay internet: even self-righteous mediocrity gets a voice. Hey bitchola! Don't be slanderin' the mediocre elst i will have to get on ya! hey...on another note, anyone ever see that BWRTS clown flyin the other day??? and the say pigs don't fly! Quote
lunger Posted September 14, 2005 Posted September 14, 2005 the robber baron took flight? how far, which route? details! Quote
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