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flashclimber

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Everything posted by flashclimber

  1. A few screen shots might help sales! People do like to see what they are buying. IMO
  2. Index is more suited for this type of climbing.
  3. Link doesn't work. But with today's technological age, digital cameras and adobe photo shop. I bet you could make up a digital guide in a few hours.
  4. That was my plan too. Call me after 7
  5. Anyone want to climb at Exit 38, 32, or Index on Saturday? Anytime between 7 am to 5 pm. Let me know. Text or PM 206.802.5625 Gabe
  6. Anyone been up there lately? I heard the approach road is completely overgrown. I'd like to know. I'd like to head up there and poop my pants again. Last time i was there. 10 years ago. i was 50 feet over the last bolt and the one I was looking at was smashed by falling rock. To be young and adventurous again.
  7. Link to the new route at index in the country area. http://www.mountainproject.com/v/var-to-finish-of-hotc-right-ventricle/108243550 Old bolts on existing route were replaced by DT and Jenny.
  8. It's closed. Falcon closure till June or July.
  9. Whoever is cleaning the old routes at the Lower Lump Pm me please.
  10. I usually tie two stick clips together and clip the anchors. That way I feel at ease when I climb. Seriously, that is such a great picture. I'm thinking about making it my screen saver.
  11. Didn't you know? They left the "X" on the rock for you. So you could carry it down for them. I do it all the time because I know you are going to climb right after me. Plus I am too lazy to carry the rock down myself.
  12. Looking for a partner for Tues or Wed. Climb from 11-6 or 7. Index or the Exits works for me. (Sport or Trad) Gabe Text or Call 206-802-5625
  13. Went climbing on Fri with a group of 4 friends at Index. Was a good day!
  14. Looking for a climbing partner for Saturday May 12th. Index, Railyard, Darrington, 32, or 38. You call it. Im good to go all day! Trad or sport. I need to get out. I don't mind driving as long as You can make it to a half way meeting point. Im coming from Mill Creek! NO last minute bailing please! Gabe Text me 206.802.5625
  15. Will there ever be a topo to Nason Ridge?
  16. On Friday Doug T and I went out to Index to give Model Worker Full a redpoint attempt. We had both toproped the route a few times over the past weeks. Each time we were going to give it a lead attempt the weather shut us down. It was either too hot or we got rained off the route. AccuWeather predicted 65 degrees and 20% chance of rain on Friday. This time we knew we had a fighting chance of making the redpoint send. I went first, then it was Doug's turn. He got into the first few moves and then the rain started. He came down and pulled the gear off the route. We gathered our stuff and went to JT's house for a bit to wait out the rain. About an hour later the sky cleared up, the rain stopped, and the sun came out. Back to the route so Doug could send. Doug took off and styled the opening moves (several 11b moves in a row, including a ridiculous high step). Doug making the high step move Then Doug took a nice rest at the mid anchor. (We replaced the mid anchors and upper bolts on the route the week before. Solid SS) Just above the mid anchors is a nice handcrack for about 20 feet. Doug made it up the handcrack with no problem. Next comes the 11c face climbing moves into a 10d face move and directly into a corner. Doug said he felt solid through this section (I knew this would be my crux. If I was gonna fall anywhere it was gonna be here). Doug made it up to the corner, then paused. Moving your feet up through this section is the mental crux move. It’s a lyback/pinch move. Doug finally caught his breath and moved on through this section. The rest of the route is 10c face climbing with a small crack to protect with gear. Congrats Doug!
  17. You guys pissed me off so much, that I went to Exit 38 today with my pry bar. Just to prove a point that all the rock there is "crap" I pried off that section of rock with the bolt the chick repeatedly fell on. It pulled with little effort. Suck on that!
  18. A little off topic but something I saw when I was at Exit 38. Ill make it short: A couple of teens were climbing next to us on the new 10a. I overheard them say they only had 6 quickdraws. The route has 13 bolts. The female, clearly the stronger climbers, began to lead. She got to the 5th bolt and hooked a quickdraw and sling into it. She connected them to her harness. Then she started to set up a belay station on the single bolt. I kindly stated to the couple that a single bolt in "crap" rock was not very safe. The male said, 'We will be fine." Holding my tongue I said, "Hopefully, but a helicopter rescue may be in order if the rock breaks." I went back to climbing. The female lowered down, on one bolt. She backcleaned the route and began to lead again. This time she clipped into the rock just above where she is seen in the picture. The big red x is the single bolt she began to lead on again. She was 35 feet off the ground. If you have climbed the route, you would know this is a section of rock that has been cleaned and is the worst rock on the route. She took repeated falls on this single bolt. Making me and Kevin cringe each time. I seriously thought she was going to blow the bolt right out of the rock. Sometimes I wonder who taught these kids to climb. If it was my son and daughter, I would take their gear away from them and buy em a bouldering pad. Pretty sad!
  19. I was at Exit 38 the other day and took a few photos. This is a side Topo photo of the new routes. This is a view from underneith the 11a. Project bolts are to the right. Up above I located 3 anchors and a rope. I followed the path, but it didn't seem to lead anywhere you couldn't walk to on the trail. Another view of the 11a Kevin on the 10a. The 10a with bolts marked Kevin on the start of the 11a
  20. I think you have to get out there to see the routes. I'll pm u the next time I go.
  21. So specifically the routes are between Side Dish and (i think)Underground Economy. From left to right, one was a 5.6 slab/with a 10ish overhang second pitch. In the middle was an overhanging 11a. And to the right a 5.9 stemming route. I did see an old route up higher but couldn't figure out where it went. Someone has taken time to re-bolt several routes out there. Thanks and its about time. If anyone knows who has extra bolts and anchors to change them all out, I'm down for spending a few days getting em all done! Got a few friends who said they would help too.
  22. Anyone got the info or link to the 5-6 new routes on the main wall (Iron Horse trail section) of Exit 38. It appears as if someone bolted a few new routes out there. (Not Shangri-La area). Thanks.
  23. Way too much time on your hands. Maybe you should be crack climbing and not finger typing. Haha.
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