Chalk - you've got to be kidding me...

[JosephH]

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Upfront disclaimer - I despise the stuff and usually only use it [sparingly] when temps get above 90, on particular sloping moves on hard routes, or I'm on slick, white Valley granite.

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<Rant ON>

 

In a short week since opening the routes out at Beacon Rock have been literally slathered with the stuff. A judicious dip now and then when it's truly needed by a few people that sweat exessively is one thing, but it was certainly completely unnecessary on the trade routes out at Beacon yesterday or for the week for that matter. From what I saw it must at this point be an desparately obsessive pychological crutch for many, many people. Also, to have routes chalked up to the point where it's climb-by-the-numbers(dots) just adds to the mental crutch. Just for fun sometime consider leaving it at home and climbing without it and see how you fair. Or at least consider using it judiciously, and only when it's really necessary. Slathering it everywhere unnecessarily just sucks...

 

[and 90 percent of the routes out at Beacon don't need any 90% of the time...]

 

<Rant OFF>

 

I'll get flamed on this no doubt, but it really just completely degraded the whole experience to a degree I haven't experienced in some time...

[ivan]

funny - i noticed the same thing today. i myself seldom have use for the stuff unless i'm pumped stupid, but most folks do seem use it even when they're sweating - odd. kinda like bitching'bout trash on the side of the road - truly fighting the tide...

 

think i saw the peregrine's today, plus tree frogs and bats - very sweet

[billcoe]

I agree, but it is a hard habit to break, I'm trying and thanks for the reminder.

 

It amazes me to see people doing the low traverse on pussy wall at the Butte, hardest move 5.5, 1-3 feet off the deck, chalk, step, move other foot, chalk, chalk other hand, move feet...chalk chalk, feet ... repeat as necessary.

 

BTW, I suspect your detailed routefinding report for YW on the internet will help large amounts of people find and thus chalk the holy shit out of that route.

 

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/424372/an/0/page/0/gonew/1#UNREAD

 

Maybe you can edit it and give up the detailed instructions on Your route which goes up and R from the first pitch. It might not ever see any chalk anyway..... might get cleaned up some!

 

I think that the use of chalk will result in common cases of lung disease in @ 10 years.

 

But thats me.

[goatboy]

Assuming that Chalk is Aid (can we all agree on that much, at least?) then I wonder, is environmentally-colored chalk "Clean Aid?"

 

[Dru]

There's always pof.

[Dechristo]

Use non-caged, organically-fed, free-range chalk.

[Szyjakowski]

There's always pof.

that shit sucks and should stay in the Frenchy Forest

[Dru]

don't knock it till you tried it, i find that when my hands get covered in sap while bushwacking, or when i grab a tree for a "squamish crux", i climb much better until it wears off.

[gyselinck]

I stoped using chalk about 4 months ago because I ran out and didnt want to buy more. I found that I can climb anything that I can with chalk just as good as I can without. I think people just get in the habit of dipping when there nervous. Chalks over rated.

[iain]

If you need more chalk just go do a few laps on lower Heinous.

[Szyjakowski]

I stoped using chalk about 4 months ago because I ran out and didnt want to buy more. I found that I can climb anything that I can with chalk just as good as I can without. I think people just get in the habit of dipping when there nervous. Chalks over rated.

if you do not believe in using chalk to get up shit try, devils lake in Wisc or Fountainbleau or countless other super-climbed out slippery piles.

 

but I agree, chalk is over-rated and aid and I definitely use it more when nervous.

 

Craig, if you need chalk go to the central weight-lifting room and fill it up.

[ajm]

I was out at Beacon as well on Sunday. It was annoying to see the tic marks everywhere. . . I admit, I use chalk - but a huge mark where you should put your hand, foot, etc.. C'mon!

[lancegranite]

That colored tape just does not stick as well on the real rock, how will we make it to the top?

[Collin]

I admit that I use chalk as much as next gymnast, even though I don't need it most of the time. Chalk is somewhat mental and mental makes me climb harder. I love chalk.

[Dechristo]

I admit that I use chalk as much as next gymnast, even though I don't need it most of the time. Chalk is somewhat mental and mental makes me climb harder. I love chalk.

 

 

Then is chalk a hedge against fear?

[Dr_Flush_Amazing]

 

Then is chalk a hedge against fear?

 

Did you just finish Logic 101 or something? You're talking out of school.

[JosephH]

Chalk is like 90% mental and actually required out at a place like Beacon about 10% of the time on 5% of the holds....

[retired]

I'll stop using chalk when you pry it from my hot sweaty fingers...tongue firmly in cheek, thanks for the Beacon outing Joe & Bill

[billcoe]

I'll stop using chalk when you pry it from my hot sweaty fingers...tongue firmly in cheek, thanks for the Beacon outing Joe & Bill

 

Our pleasure Jim, I'll climb with you again anytime you'd have me!

 

BTW, note to the rest of you pups, at our age, we have to chalk just to climb out of bed in the morning.

 

errr, I'll try to minimise my useage on the rocks though.

[b-rock]

Well, it was pretty hot at Beacon on Sunday... But then again there was a lot of chalk. I too will try to cut it down. A chalk ball helps a whole lot instead of loose chalk - easier to moderate and harder to spill.

[RyanTriplett]

I found that I can climb anything that I can with chalk just as good as I can without.

 

Not supporting overuse, but this statement gets a big "Whatever". Go climb a hard steep Index face climb in the 80 degree sun without chalk. Say Swim or the approach pitch to Madsen's Ledge ...

[catbirdseat]

I think it sucks when the climber on the next route is using loose chalk and has to dip for every single move. The wind is such that a rain of white particles comes down on you. It just pisses me off when that happens.

[Dru]

ya you'd rather the shower was golden than white.

[jmace]

The wind is such that a rain of white particles comes down on you. It just pisses me off when that happens.

 

Are you serious? Thats pretty funny if you are

[Dr_Flash_Amazing]

For a bunch of supposed hardcore types (too hard for bolts, into long-ass alpine approaches and bushwacking, sleep on portaledges and eat cold beanie-weanies for breakfast), you sure do get your nips in a tweak over something so trivial as chalk. Sounds like all this bold behavior is just a front to cover some pretty soft everyday insecurity.

 

Toughen up, you nancy-ass sons-a-bitches!