RyanTriplett

I don't think you're crazy at all, soft no doubt. I would say that The Pinch was the hardest and best route there if you could unlock it! Is Jungle Boogie the line between Shorty and Superbad?

Don't know too much about this, other than working and climbing it years ago (around 2001). I would say that mid 11-ish is way off, for in my opinion it was a fair bit harder than Shorty, Superbadest, etc... I remember it being rather straight forward to a cruxy move. Is Baker/Pumphouse seeing traffic these days? Pretty fun little crag ...

please share your findings ...

Just past mile post 39 you will bend around a left turn and a small two car pullout will be on your right. Park and look accross the highway. A Climbers trail proceeds through the talus and up to the Pumphouse. The Cobblestone Wall is reached by continuing up and left. The Pumphouse is a fun outing and has a few routes that stay dry in the rain. I would agree that the warm-up is about .10+, but can be climbed completely static. Shorty (.12c) is a bolted bolder problem that climbs the obvious prow on the left side. The dihedral that Distel refers to is called Superbad and has a fun little extension that pulls the roof at the first set of chains (called Superbadest). To the right of that is, in my opinion, the best route there called Pinch of Death (.12d). I haven't climbed there since around 2001, so I am not sure of the condition. There are also climbs/problems located down the highway a short bit on the left as well. This area used to be referred to as Pee-Wee's Playhouse.

... as there are 0 tope ropes at WWI. I do not know his condition as of this morning, yet I can say that the accident involved a fall from "Lanch Ledge". As anyone who climbs there knows this is not a 75ft fall, but trauma is trauma. From what I have been told, he was not climbing but walking along the ledge as he was leaving the crag.

I was there the day it fell out (though I wasn't the one) and came back the following weekend to "resend" it. This was about a month ago. I would say the grade remains around .12a, but do note that placing gear is much more strenuous now that standing on the top of the block is not an option. I managed to get an RP in while laying back the side pull just below where the seam/crack starts and smearing with my left foot in the new void. The jam that I think you are refering to remains.

you can explore Brian Head mountain area. a geologic "crazyplace" with bizzare black basalt, welded tuff, meta-stuff, etc ... crags all over. there is even conglomerate in nearby Parawan. good hiking and mountain biking too. probably about 30 minutes from ceder city. other than that the usuals. depends on what you are looking for. Indian Creek & Moab VRG Gorilla Cliffs

this might be it?

... and that activity is easy, boring, unimaginative, not real climbing, stupid, no risk involved, run of the mill "walking with obstacles thrown in" bullshit ... right, well thought out post.

see it here ...

if you have ever even attempted to climb the cave in the "wet season" it seeps ... big (especially the .11d). Keep hiking and stay left, head to The Lost Resort. Climbing From the Wreckage(.13a) stays dry to a point (2/3's the route) in hard rain and can be completable in light rain. A fun excursion. You have to hike, yet get in some climbing. The .11b to the left is fun as well (also a bunch of other climbs further left(.10ish) and some exist to the right that I have not done). Maybe you can put "Cralwling" together in the poor conditions ... I had to come back in the sunshine to get the redpoint Damn fingers ... In my expereience, Exit 32 (ww1) stay dry in a moderate rain fall. Californicator is the driest for climmber and belayet alikee. Many of the upper extensions remain completely dry, though the starts may be affected by moisture ... as of 11/20 all is good and pretty much every climb is dry. cheers.

Attractive Nuisiance is ALWAYS dry ... just have to hump your ass up there in the rain

does this mean you are back for good or just the fall?

Not supporting overuse, but this statement gets a big "Whatever". Go climb a hard steep Index face climb in the 80 degree sun without chalk. Say Swim or the approach pitch to Madsen's Ledge ...

I believe you are thinking of Colab Canyon ...

I purchased a guidebook (translated even) at the local fishing/climbing/camping shop on the main drag of Cala Gonone. It was fairly extensive and offered information pertaining to single and mutlipitch routes.

I have been climbing there, though it was not in December. I would assume that there would be plenty to do. There is alot of climbing within close proximity to Cala Gonone (sp). Also, tendering a boat ride to Cala Luna is a must do! It was 14 euro a couple years ago, which got you a ride there and back (you could camp there as well and return when you want).

trying to be funny with that quote, at this point, is not really funny.

Anyone have any thoughts on this route? It has always been something I have considered, yet never heard anything about ...

pretty sure Rock jocks ... was written by John Long

The newer (02 I think) bolt line leading to the right, just off the top of pitch 3 is awesome! Not on the topo above, but is on a pdf that is floating around (this file also has Heaven's Gate (.11a) on it, which I also highly recommend). This climb weighs in quite a bit harder (.11d) than Lovin Arms, but meets up with the last 5.9 edge fest to the top after a great meadering natually protected .10c pitch! Check it.

Oh, shit ... sorry I didn't even see your post. I know where you are referring too. The Pinch, I'd say down low is the crux yet you could blow it getting over the little roof at the top (pretty much a mantle to a stance at the chains).

The pinch ... yes it is the one in the center of the wall (just left of the popular "go-go gadget"). It goes through a wavy buldge down low and finish atop the mini roof. So where is this .13 project there? I briefly tried the "project at the time I was there" climb in the cave way off to the right (in a cave-like area with a make shift bench below it) but the fucker seeped so bad I quit. Could this be the climb you are referring too? I always thought that the Pumphouse was a fun place (and dry too!). Make sure you stop for a pint at the North Fork.

I haven't climbed there in years, but once spent lots of time there during college. Where is this "new" project located? Is it in the main pumphouse area or off to the right? Either way, I'd have to say the "the pinch" would remain the best climb there.

Any hard climb been put up on the headwall in the last couple years?