JosephH Posted July 18, 2005 Share Posted July 18, 2005 ========================================== Upfront disclaimer - I despise the stuff and usually only use it [sparingly] when temps get above 90, on particular sloping moves on hard routes, or I'm on slick, white Valley granite. ========================================== <Rant ON> In a short week since opening the routes out at Beacon Rock have been literally slathered with the stuff. A judicious dip now and then when it's truly needed by a few people that sweat exessively is one thing, but it was certainly completely unnecessary on the trade routes out at Beacon yesterday or for the week for that matter. From what I saw it must at this point be an desparately obsessive pychological crutch for many, many people. Also, to have routes chalked up to the point where it's climb-by-the-numbers(dots) just adds to the mental crutch. Just for fun sometime consider leaving it at home and climbing without it and see how you fair. Or at least consider using it judiciously, and only when it's really necessary. Slathering it everywhere unnecessarily just sucks... [and 90 percent of the routes out at Beacon don't need any 90% of the time...] <Rant OFF> I'll get flamed on this no doubt, but it really just completely degraded the whole experience to a degree I haven't experienced in some time... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted July 18, 2005 Share Posted July 18, 2005 funny - i noticed the same thing today. i myself seldom have use for the stuff unless i'm pumped stupid, but most folks do seem use it even when they're sweating - odd. kinda like bitching'bout trash on the side of the road - truly fighting the tide... think i saw the peregrine's today, plus tree frogs and bats - very sweet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted July 18, 2005 Share Posted July 18, 2005 I agree, but it is a hard habit to break, I'm trying and thanks for the reminder. It amazes me to see people doing the low traverse on pussy wall at the Butte, hardest move 5.5, 1-3 feet off the deck, chalk, step, move other foot, chalk, chalk other hand, move feet...chalk chalk, feet ... repeat as necessary. BTW, I suspect your detailed routefinding report for YW on the internet will help large amounts of people find and thus chalk the holy shit out of that route. http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/424372/an/0/page/0/gonew/1#UNREAD Maybe you can edit it and give up the detailed instructions on Your route which goes up and R from the first pitch. It might not ever see any chalk anyway..... might get cleaned up some! I think that the use of chalk will result in common cases of lung disease in @ 10 years. But thats me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goatboy Posted July 18, 2005 Share Posted July 18, 2005 Assuming that Chalk is Aid (can we all agree on that much, at least?) then I wonder, is environmentally-colored chalk "Clean Aid?" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted July 18, 2005 Share Posted July 18, 2005 There's always pof. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dechristo Posted July 18, 2005 Share Posted July 18, 2005 Use non-caged, organically-fed, free-range chalk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Szyjakowski Posted July 18, 2005 Share Posted July 18, 2005 There's always pof. that shit sucks and should stay in the Frenchy Forest Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted July 18, 2005 Share Posted July 18, 2005 don't knock it till you tried it, i find that when my hands get covered in sap while bushwacking, or when i grab a tree for a "squamish crux", i climb much better until it wears off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gyselinck Posted July 18, 2005 Share Posted July 18, 2005 I stoped using chalk about 4 months ago because I ran out and didnt want to buy more. I found that I can climb anything that I can with chalk just as good as I can without. I think people just get in the habit of dipping when there nervous. Chalks over rated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted July 18, 2005 Share Posted July 18, 2005 If you need more chalk just go do a few laps on lower Heinous. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Szyjakowski Posted July 18, 2005 Share Posted July 18, 2005 I stoped using chalk about 4 months ago because I ran out and didnt want to buy more. I found that I can climb anything that I can with chalk just as good as I can without. I think people just get in the habit of dipping when there nervous. Chalks over rated. if you do not believe in using chalk to get up shit try, devils lake in Wisc or Fountainbleau or countless other super-climbed out slippery piles. but I agree, chalk is over-rated and aid and I definitely use it more when nervous. Craig, if you need chalk go to the central weight-lifting room and fill it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajm Posted July 19, 2005 Share Posted July 19, 2005 I was out at Beacon as well on Sunday. It was annoying to see the tic marks everywhere. . . I admit, I use chalk - but a huge mark where you should put your hand, foot, etc.. C'mon! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancegranite Posted July 19, 2005 Share Posted July 19, 2005 That colored tape just does not stick as well on the real rock, how will we make it to the top? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Collin Posted July 19, 2005 Share Posted July 19, 2005 I admit that I use chalk as much as next gymnast, even though I don't need it most of the time. Chalk is somewhat mental and mental makes me climb harder. I love chalk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dechristo Posted July 19, 2005 Share Posted July 19, 2005 I admit that I use chalk as much as next gymnast, even though I don't need it most of the time. Chalk is somewhat mental and mental makes me climb harder. I love chalk. Then is chalk a hedge against fear? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flush_Amazing Posted July 19, 2005 Share Posted July 19, 2005 Then is chalk a hedge against fear? Did you just finish Logic 101 or something? You're talking out of school. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted July 19, 2005 Author Share Posted July 19, 2005 Chalk is like 90% mental and actually required out at a place like Beacon about 10% of the time on 5% of the holds.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
retired Posted July 19, 2005 Share Posted July 19, 2005 I'll stop using chalk when you pry it from my hot sweaty fingers...tongue firmly in cheek, thanks for the Beacon outing Joe & Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted July 19, 2005 Share Posted July 19, 2005 I'll stop using chalk when you pry it from my hot sweaty fingers...tongue firmly in cheek, thanks for the Beacon outing Joe & Bill Our pleasure Jim, I'll climb with you again anytime you'd have me! BTW, note to the rest of you pups, at our age, we have to chalk just to climb out of bed in the morning. errr, I'll try to minimise my useage on the rocks though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b-rock Posted July 19, 2005 Share Posted July 19, 2005 Well, it was pretty hot at Beacon on Sunday... But then again there was a lot of chalk. I too will try to cut it down. A chalk ball helps a whole lot instead of loose chalk - easier to moderate and harder to spill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyanTriplett Posted July 19, 2005 Share Posted July 19, 2005 I found that I can climb anything that I can with chalk just as good as I can without. Not supporting overuse, but this statement gets a big "Whatever". Go climb a hard steep Index face climb in the 80 degree sun without chalk. Say Swim or the approach pitch to Madsen's Ledge ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted July 19, 2005 Share Posted July 19, 2005 I think it sucks when the climber on the next route is using loose chalk and has to dip for every single move. The wind is such that a rain of white particles comes down on you. It just pisses me off when that happens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted July 19, 2005 Share Posted July 19, 2005 ya you'd rather the shower was golden than white. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmace Posted July 19, 2005 Share Posted July 19, 2005 The wind is such that a rain of white particles comes down on you. It just pisses me off when that happens. Are you serious? Thats pretty funny if you are Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted July 19, 2005 Share Posted July 19, 2005 For a bunch of supposed hardcore types (too hard for bolts, into long-ass alpine approaches and bushwacking, sleep on portaledges and eat cold beanie-weanies for breakfast), you sure do get your nips in a tweak over something so trivial as chalk. Sounds like all this bold behavior is just a front to cover some pretty soft everyday insecurity. Toughen up, you nancy-ass sons-a-bitches! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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