OlegV Posted April 12, 2005 Share Posted April 12, 2005 I always thought that as a sport, rock climbing is a static and gear-dependent activity. Very few climb the rock without protection sometimes paying with their lives. I wouldn’t. My personal rock climbing experience is limited to several visits of New Hampshire, Gunks and a couple of climbs here in Cascades. I spent this weekend at Smith climbing with and learning from Pete and Dru. I was deeply impressed with a variety of routes and with people who climb them. Better said, this place struck me as the city of climbers - the city without boundaries. It felt like the entire Portland climbing community was there. Frankly, I prefer the solitude in the mountains, but this time I enjoyed the people and the rock. I don’t know why, but three of us skipped the required warm-up climb and jumped on 5.10c . I shortly discovered that the rock at Smith has lots of amazing features. It is simply solid. Thanks to those who polished these slabs with their hands and feet. I could trust my weight to every tinny protrusion on a face. The same afternoon, I led my first 5.9 pitch; minutes later - followed my first crack! Some of the cracks we did are amazingly difficult but fun to follow. The second day we luckily escape crowds and climb Spiderman. I loved its roof traverse that begs for a top belay. Shortly after, we followed a mixed line of crack and face climbing just to the left of Spiderman. It felt like 5.10 but was probably easier than that. In the end, I felt like I discovered a new home, a place to which you always want to return. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted April 12, 2005 Share Posted April 12, 2005 In the end, I felt like I discovered a new home, a place to which you always want to return. So true, brother. Welcome home. Beautiful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sk Posted April 12, 2005 Share Posted April 12, 2005 In the end, I felt like I discovered a new home, a place to which you always want to return. So true, brother. Welcome home. Beautiful. smith is home and heart to many... welcome Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyHarry Posted April 12, 2005 Share Posted April 12, 2005 In the end, I felt like I discovered a new home, a place to which you always want to return. And Teddy Ruxpin hugged his long lost kitty kat, and a rainbow came out and birds sang. The dew on the grass glistened. The end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted April 12, 2005 Share Posted April 12, 2005 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted April 12, 2005 Share Posted April 12, 2005 It was an alternate ending for me: In the end, the welded tuff proved to be a harsh mistress as I fell off the beginner route I was attempting to shuffle/lead up and injured my ankle. While I will return again and again to this sport climbing wonderland, it will always be tuff love relationship for me. Then Teddy Ruxpin performed ritualistic suicide by jumping into a burning pyre. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ireneo_Funes Posted April 12, 2005 Share Posted April 12, 2005 Glad you enjoyed yourself at Smith, Oleg. It's definitely not the place for alpine solitude, but it's still one of my favorite places to go in Oregon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Winter Posted April 12, 2005 Share Posted April 12, 2005 Oleg, screw the naysayers and jackasses. Good TR. Glad you enjoyed it. Get out there and climb more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyHarry Posted April 12, 2005 Share Posted April 12, 2005 I'm touched by your sensitivity to a fellow human being. How tender. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skyclimb Posted April 12, 2005 Share Posted April 12, 2005 It was a great suprise to see all you guys out there . Shit Oleg, you know it was all those pranh wearing babes on the front side, that was getting you turned on. It musta been 75 out there on sunday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badvoodoo Posted April 12, 2005 Share Posted April 12, 2005 Damn, so many people there, and I never spotted one of you! Definitely an excellent weekend to be at Smith. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
castlecrag Posted April 13, 2005 Share Posted April 13, 2005 I didn't know Oregon had any climbing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seattlechronic Posted April 13, 2005 Share Posted April 13, 2005 With the music I am listening to right now and your words...What a great post!!! Glad you had a great Time!!!Can't wait to get there myself.. SC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlegV Posted April 13, 2005 Author Share Posted April 13, 2005 Thanks people! Smith rocks!!! Can't wait to go back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlag Posted April 13, 2005 Share Posted April 13, 2005 Sorry to miss you. We went out to the Marsupials on Sunday to avoid the masses. Place was pretty empty out there. Sounds like you enjoyed yourself and that's all the matters. Nice job on your leads, impressive. Feel free to come down and stay anytime you want to pull on tuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted April 13, 2005 Share Posted April 13, 2005 Thanks people! Smith rocks!!! It's Smith Rock, you idiot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted April 13, 2005 Share Posted April 13, 2005 Thanks people! Smith rocks!!! It's Smith Rock, you idiot. *SLAP!* Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialed Posted April 13, 2005 Share Posted April 13, 2005 BANG BANG Its a celebration bitches. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike_G Posted April 14, 2005 Share Posted April 14, 2005 Yes, there's plenty of solitude to be had at Smith, but you must venture beyond Morning Glory and the Dihedrals... However, if it's climbing community you want, come to Smith on Saturday, May 7th for the Spring Thing. All Smithies worth their salt will be there. Smith Rock Spring Thing post Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted April 14, 2005 Share Posted April 14, 2005 The last time I went looking for solitude in the Marsupials there was a three-team train wreck queued up for every route on Koala Rock Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlegV Posted April 14, 2005 Author Share Posted April 14, 2005 Yo people, what I mean - "Smith Rock rocks!!!" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbw1966 Posted April 14, 2005 Share Posted April 14, 2005 There's more to the marsupials than Koala. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted April 14, 2005 Share Posted April 14, 2005 There was a 3-man train wreck of Layton, corvallisclimb and some other dude on The Mudpile too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sk Posted April 14, 2005 Share Posted April 14, 2005 Yo people, what I mean - "Smith Rock rocks!!!" what you realy mean is SMIFF RAWKS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike_G Posted April 17, 2005 Share Posted April 17, 2005 The last time I went looking for solitude in the Marsupials there was a three-team train wreck queued up for every route on Koala Rock Ah yes, Koala Rock... the new Morning Glory Wall! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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