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castlecrag

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About castlecrag

  • Rank
    journeyman
  • Birthday 01/25/1976

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  • Location
    outside your window @ night
  1. Ingalls creek valley, S side of stuart

    I skied the cascadian last weekend. Still pretty good conditions up there, many signs of slide activity, just missed a huge on on the way up ulrich's coulior. We intended to ski that line until we saw it unload down the slot. scared the crap out of us. Probably a nice boot pack for ya now
  2. best of cc.com [TR] Yosemite Valley - Steck Salathe 7/26/2008

    Nice story will, one for the ages! I had to down some H2O after reading that sucker. I was looking up to the skys at that route just this past May. It was about 10PM and I saw the faint glow of two headlamps, only 2/3 the way up the route. About two hours went by and I took another look up there...poor guys hadn't moved much if at all. Pretty sure they spent the night up high on that burly sandbag of a route
  3. Beacon Open yet?

    So..what's the good word on Beacon? South face open now? I talked to Joseph last week and had not the official OK to head out that way. Not sure if the birds have taken flight yet and are ready for us to make our yealry pilgramage to "Oregon's" finest rock
  4. Alpiners Anonymous: PDX dry tool night

    I was just thinking of heading out there myself. See ya there 2nite!
  5. [TR] Sawtooths - Elephant's Perch - Sunrise Book 7/5/2007

    Willie's still got some life in him...that's for sure. The dude on the right hand side of the pic is one of his sons (one of many I'm sure). Pretty decent on the guitar, but his voice...not so much For a shorter route on the perch, Sunrise Book definitely has a good mix of climbing on it. hound...I'll save the whippers for the direct beckey line
  6. Trip: [TR] Sawtooths - Elephant's Perch - Sunrise Book Date: 7/5/2007 Trip Report: Spent a couple days last week out in the Sawtooth's last week. One intriguing line I had yet to sink my paws into was the sunrise book on the Elephant's Perch. After driving thru the night from PDX....It sure was nice to see the dock at redfish lake lodge once again After a quick ride across the lake, we hit the trail. The same trail where my wife and I got engaged two years ago. This scene was re-enacted oh so well in one of John's TR’s from last year. TR here That afternoon, we decided to take it easy and enjoy what the sawtooths had to offer. Did some swimming and even pulled out the fly rod landing a few lil brookies that evening. Don't worry ...I threw em back Next morning we set out for the sunrise book. After a short hike up the gully, we were off. Although short by sawtooth standards, Sunrise Book is one of the most aesthetic lines on the perch with a right facing corner for most of the route, capped by a chimney/roof on the final pitch P1 (5.9+): nice warmup for the more sustained pitches above. Two mini cruxes on the pitch kept things interesting One short 5.9+ section down low, followed by a small roof right below the comfy belay P2: 5.8 -> A1 or 5.12-. P2 started out pretty chill, then came the aid section. Considering I’m not much of an aid climber, things went pretty smooth. Protect pretty easy with small nuts and tcu’s (up to yellow) or small aliens (up to red) Here's Christina rodeoing up the short aid section P3: 5.9++: flaring corner crack that was good to protect, but I found the jams less than straightforward. P4: 5.10-: Perfect hand jams up the open book, which takes you into a deep chimney for the next belay. This pitch felt much more relaxing than the pitch below P4 P5: 5.9+: some chimey fun gets you just below the roof, which protects really nice. Then it’s another 40 feet or so of smooth sailing to the top P4 and P5 could be combined, but I decided rope drag coulda got a bit nasty, and stuck with the standard plan Capped off the trip by a lil trip to Bend to see a living legend before he bids us goodnight Can't wait till I return Gear Notes: - C4's up to 3", doubles in the hand sizes. My #4 C4 was a boat anchor, a set of aliens, plus a few extra tcu's and small nuts for the aid - 4 wt rod - Lots of D.E.E.T. Mosiquitos are nasty this year! Approach Notes: chill
  7. Alpiners Anonymous: PDX dry tool night

    sweet...how about silver bullet? look for black toyota. Might be a few minutes late depending on traffic
  8. PDX % Body Fat Testing?

    Voodoo donuts might have a bath your looking for. I hear you're a regular there
  9. Alpiners Anonymous: PDX dry tool night

    Who's up for some laps tonight at Rocky? I can meet up at ~530 or so. Holla back
  10. PDX Climbing Urban Wall

    good points Bill. My thoughts were to first get some rough esitmates on how much a project like this might cost. If it is reasonable, then I could approach someone within Portland P&R to see if there is any funding and/or support for a project like this. Knowing the state of the local government budget, it might take more of a grassroots effort to kick this off. More pub club fundraisers, or some funding from Club Milf members (since they are all loaded ya know)
  11. PDX Climbing Urban Wall

    You guys are right in the sense that there are a few options out there. but there are a few drawbacks to each place. Lake O (+) South Facing, a few good routes (-) not really much in terms of bouldering, limited selection of continuous cracks Rocky Butte (+) good selection of quality routes, some limited bouldering (-) North facing which means often can't be climbed in winter, noise, needles, russians throwing beer bottles on my head Bridges, and other structures aorund PDX (+) Plenty of options aorund the city (-) The days of evading law enforcement to climb are over (unless your name is John) I was thinking of having a place that would be able to take the best of the urban areas and be a good training playground. I'm thinking of a Marymoor with a few extras like splitters for Joseph
  12. PDX Climbing Urban Wall

    So, the Seattle has plenty of urban spots to get some bouldering/climbing in close by (Marymoor, Beacon Hill, UW rock, Tacoma), but Portland is essentially w/o any options (minus the little wall up near Rocky Butte). Whussup?? 8D Granted I’d much rather be climbing on real rock vs. these man made structures, but I was thinking that an outdoor wall in one of the local parks would be a nice addition to Portland. There are times when a trip out to one of the local crags is not an option, but a wall close in to the city would be a nice place to get a workout in w/o having to tool around in a gym So my question for ya’ll is, does anyone know why we don’t have an outdoor wall in PDX? Has anyone tried to get a wall built in PDX? (Minus the stealth wall built under the bridge for DT’ing, that lasted 6 months), nice attempt Johnny The biggest hurdles I see to getting one built are 1) Liability – There should be ways around this since SEA area has added these structures to their parks. Plus we got skate parks all over the place, so their should be a pretty good argurment to knock this obstacle out 2) Money – Climbers aren’t exactly loaded with cash. A little fundraising effort could help with this one just think, wouldn’t it be great to have a wall with a few splitters, some bouldering, and a nice traverse for a little urban training?
  13. Pole Creek update

    Probably got a good amount of snow back on the trail with the stroms this week. we ended up doing broken top after all on sunday. It was quite the SLOG from the bachelor parking lot. I couldn't convince my friend to check out middle sister. Not much skiing on broken top for the distance we covered. Snow Machine is key back there. Next time I head out there it'll be on middle or north sister. Anyone ski the NE slope of North Sister (Thayer Glacier I think)? Looks like a pretty rad line
  14. Pole Creek update

    Would you recommend middle sister vs. Broken top this time of year? Broken top probably means shorter approach and looks like it has some good lines, but also much less vertical
  15. Pole Creek update

    My buddy and I are heading out for turns Saturday. Current plan is broken top. Would one of the sisters be a better ski descent since we can get up Pole Creek now (or at least pretty close)? Recommendations, pleazz
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