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Posted

I always thought that as a sport, rock climbing is a static and gear-dependent activity. Very few climb the rock without protection sometimes paying with their lives. I wouldn’t. My personal rock climbing experience is limited to several visits of New Hampshire, Gunks and a couple of climbs here in Cascades.

I spent this weekend at Smith climbing with and learning from Pete and Dru. I was deeply impressed with a variety of routes and with people who climb them. Better said, this place struck me as the city of climbers - the city without boundaries. It felt like the entire Portland climbing community was there. Frankly, I prefer the solitude in the mountains, but this time I enjoyed the people and the rock.

 

I don’t know why, but three of us skipped the required warm-up climb and jumped on 5.10c . I shortly discovered that the rock at Smith has lots of amazing features. It is simply solid. Thanks to those who polished these slabs with their hands and feet. I could trust my weight to every tinny protrusion on a face. The same afternoon, I led my first 5.9 pitch; minutes later - followed my first crack! Some of the cracks we did are amazingly difficult but fun to follow.

 

The second day we luckily escape crowds and climb Spiderman. I loved its roof traverse that begs for a top belay. Shortly after, we followed a mixed line of crack and face climbing just to the left of Spiderman. It felt like 5.10 but was probably easier than that.

 

In the end, I felt like I discovered a new home, a place to which you always want to return.

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Posted

 

In the end, I felt like I discovered a new home, a place to which you always want to return.

 

So true, brother. Welcome home. thumbs_up.gifbigdrink.gifcry.gif Beautiful.

smith is home and heart to many... welcome fruit.gif
Posted

In the end, I felt like I discovered a new home, a place to which you always want to return.

 

And Teddy Ruxpin hugged his long lost kitty kat, and a rainbow came out and birds sang. The dew on the grass glistened.

 

The end.

Posted

It was an alternate ending for me:

 

In the end, the welded tuff proved to be a harsh mistress as I fell off the beginner route I was attempting to shuffle/lead up and injured my ankle. While I will return again and again to this sport climbing wonderland, it will always be tuff love relationship for me. Then Teddy Ruxpin performed ritualistic suicide by jumping into a burning pyre. snugtop.gif

Posted

rockband.gif

It was a great suprise to see all you guys out there thumbs_up.gif.

Shit Oleg, you know it was all those pranh wearing babes on the front side, that was getting you turned on. It musta been 75 out there on sunday. hahaha.gif

Posted

Sorry to miss you. We went out to the Marsupials on Sunday to avoid the masses. Place was pretty empty out there. Sounds like you enjoyed yourself and that's all the matters. Nice job on your leads, impressive. Feel free to come down and stay anytime you want to pull on tuff.

Posted

Yes, there's plenty of solitude to be had at Smith, but you must venture beyond Morning Glory and the Dihedrals...

 

However, if it's climbing community you want, come to Smith on Saturday, May 7th for the Spring Thing. All Smithies worth their salt will be there.

 

Smith Rock Spring Thing post

Posted
The last time I went looking for solitude in the Marsupials there was a three-team train wreck queued up for every route on Koala Rock hellno3d.gif

 

Ah yes, Koala Rock... the new Morning Glory Wall!

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