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thelawgoddess

drytooling at exit 38

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The "official" drytooling area can be found below the trestle directly across from the westbound exit 38 exit.

 

From I-90 eastbound, take exit 38 and drive 1.7 miles to FS road 9020. Turn onto 9020 and drive two tenths of a mile to where an overgrown jeep trail leaves the south side of the road. Hike the jeep trail through light trees to its end at a talus slope about five minutes from the car. There is a very rough trail along the left side of the talus slope to the base of the crag.

 

Numerous slabby somewhat low angle lines exist here.

 

Directly above the railroad grade a mixed ice route sometimes comes in called CYA.

 

Jason

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quote:

Originally posted by Jason Martin:

Numerous slabby somewhat low angle lines exist here.

low-angle enough for free-soloing??? [big Grin] (and if not, any tr-able stuff where i can make use of my silent partner???)

 

and freeclimb9, i don't mind astrogliding. [Wink] btw, how's the forecast for utah this weekend? i'm antsy for the ice over there, too!

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There are easily accessable anchors on top. Though if you're just learning to drytool, freesoloing probably is not a hot idea. Too many sharp objects.

 

Jason

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I know we's all thinking the same thing here, let me be the first to say it:

 

Thelawgoddess: Fucking calm yo ass down!! [Mad]

 

It's great that you want to take up ice climbing this season--I'm happy for you, but as you've said right here on this board, your total experience is climbing some POS grey low angle ice (aka O-rock)--a whole 400 freaking feet--and doing some ice bouldering. Oh yeah, and that super easy, I-could-climb-it-with-my-eyes-closed, fake wall at Cascade Crags. That said, fucking stop acting like you know what the fuck you're talking about!

 

Listen, you ain't no ice climber yet! You haven't even had a taste of real ice yet. As someone who's climbed ice for several seasons now, let me tell you, be prepared to shit yo fucking pants when you finally get onto something worthy of being refered to as an ice climb. It's scary, and, frankly, you might even find that it's not for you.

 

And look, fucking forget about free soloing, solo TRing, drytooling, etc. Girlfriend, you're looking to get yer self killed. You are WAY over anxious about this whole ice thing. Look, here's my advice to you if you want to be an ice climber:

 

1. Calm yo ass down.

2. Quit acting like you know wtf you're talking about (and save some bandwidth for the rest of us)

3. Keep practicing with Col. Spanker et al--great exp. for when you actually do try to FOLLOW your first REAL ice climb.

4. Quite trying to be super ice woman--again, too cool that you're taking up this hobby, but ice climbing is not one of those things that you can safely jump into as fast as it appears you're trying to do.

 

Take care o' yo self, and don't fucking get killed on us.

[HORSECOCK][HORSECOCK][HORSECOCK][HORSECOCK][HORSECOCK][HORSECOCK]

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quote:

Originally posted by thelawgod:

[QB]fucking forget about free soloing, solo TRing, drytooling, etc. Girlfriend, you're looking to get yer self killed. You are WAY over anxious about this whole ice thing.[QB]

fuck you, god. i know you're trying to get me all riled up but it's not going to work. i will free solo, solo tr, and drytool whatever the fuck i want. i haven't claimed to be any more experienced than i am when it comes to ice climbing. i actually do know my own experience level and am (unfortunately for some perhaps) not trying to kill myself. just because i'm enthusiastic and seeking as much hands-on experience wherever i can doesn't mean i'm over-anxious. so fuck off, fucker ... and kiss my ass. [Moon]

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Its hard to see the gods fight :to the paternal one CHILL out on the girl [Roll Eyes] I am assuming you were once still new to the sport before you became such a complete [Moon] You could have said it a lot nicer.Lets be carefull not to suppress this enthusiasm

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Dry tooling can also be practice on boulders (traversing) dead trees can work as well (I emphasise DEAD). There's a "wall" on the way down to shilshole. Be creative. Be careful. Hook your tools on a bar and do chins. Hang. Carry ice chunks in each hand when you walk to work. Pound nails above your head in a 2X4 for a half hour straight. there are a lot of things you can do to prepare for ice season... they don't "Sound" as cool as just jumping on the ice, but in the end will make for a more solid base to build on.

 

TLG, he's just letting ya know that you're beating this ice thing to death... (and I'm someone who lives for ice season) We can all appreciate enthusiasm, but don't overdo it.

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quote:

Originally posted by thelawgod:

As someone who's climbed ice for several seasons now,

OMG! several seasons!?!? can i have your autograph? have you published any ice climbing books yet?

 

[laf][laf][laf]

 

i have had several seasons of spray / talking out my ass. i demand your respect! [Moon][laf]

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Don't wory, iceclimbing is super fucking easy. [rockband] I don't know what thelawgod is so scared about. Go out there and bash away, but don't forget to have fun.

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originaly posted by Offwidthclimber:

--------------------------------------------------OMG! several seasons!?!? can i have your autograph? have you published any ice climbing books yet?

--------------------------------------------------

 

whats the deal with this statement? have YOU published any books? if not, do try to keep your "pie hole" shut.

 

Knowbody here is looking for those kind of remarks, not from you. [Mad]

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Look, I think that thelawgod could have made his point more nicely, but I do think that his overall point is a good one. Ice climbing is not a sport to be taken lightly—pro is sketchy, ice is sketchy, if you’re on lead you cannot fall, etc., etc.—ice climbing entails a requisite acceptance of a greater amount of risk than say rock climbing (generally speaking). Although thelawgoddess’s enthusiasm is commendable, I just hope that she tempers her enthusiasm with a true understanding of the risks inherent to the sport.

 

Just keep it real thelawgoddess. In the rescue business I have carried out bodies of overly aggressive people before--I don't like it and don't want to have to carry out yours. Good luck and safe climbing.

[smile]

 

[ 11-13-2002, 04:19 PM: Message edited by: iceguy ]

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quote:

Originally posted by iceguy:

pro is sketchy, ice is sketchy

Amend this to read "pro is sketchy [when] ice is sketchy". With good ice (i.e. high density ice anchored well to the underlying matrix), pro is bomber. You'd break carabiners before you'd pull screws from good ice.

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quote:

Originally posted by freeclimb9:

quote:

Originally posted by iceguy:

pro is sketchy, ice is sketchy

Amend this to read "pro is sketchy [when] ice is sketchy". With good ice (i.e. high density ice anchored well to the underlying matrix), pro is bomber. You'd break carabiners before you'd pull screws from good ice.

Yes, except that I've read literature where pro pulled out under small loads in seemingly good ice, and conversely, where pro held extremely large loads in ice that appeared rotten. Generally, I agree with you. I just feel that things are kind of sketchy because you can't always tell for certain that the ice you're drilling into is good.

 

I suggest reading Craig Luebbens "How To Climb Ice" book (especially chapter 7 on anchors) for anyone getting into the sport. This book made me think about my ice placements very carefully—there are some sobering (scary) findings regarding anchors in that book.

 

[ 11-12-2002, 08:39 PM: Message edited by: iceguy ]

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quote:

Originally posted by iceguy:

In the rescue business I have carried out bodies of overly aggressive people before--I don't like it and don't want to have to carry out yours.

don't worry; i try my best to keep it real. and i can't help but be ambitious - story of my life in nearly everything i endeavor to do. and if i die out there, just leave me be. i can't really think of a better place to be buried. [Razz]

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Hell, lets start dry tooling on the old brown stone and brick builiding at the local universities and colleges in every community, town and city world wide. Go for broke include some of the commercial and industrial building while you're at it where the cops don't frequent. You could teach the local homies about scaling building in a single ascent for some B & E action, plus how to defend yourself with ice tools when confronted by the Pinkertons. [HORSECOCK]

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quote:

defend yourself with ice tools when confronted by the Pinkertons

I was going into Canada through the Idaho border crossing when the border patrol guy asks to look in my car. He digs into my gear pulls out my ice tools and angrily says, "I thought you told me you weren't carrying any weapons!". It took about fifteen minutes of explaining before he let me go. Canadians... [Roll Eyes]

 

[ 11-12-2002, 11:46 AM: Message edited by: Figger Eight ]

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quote:

Originally posted by thelawgod:

Thelawgoddess: Fucking calm yo ass down!!
[Mad]

 

Take care o' yo self, and don't fucking get killed on us.


Being psycho and having a death-wish makes her hotter!! [Eek!][chubit]

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Yeah, you have less time to try and score!!!

 

Just kidding. TLG, as long as you are seeking proper training and gaining sound knowledge from those with a lot more experience, there is no need to curb your enthusiasm. I am no ice expert and have only been leading ice for two seasons now. I don't think she is saying that she is going to go out and buy some screws and just start leading routes or that she is going to go out a run laps solo on some WI3. She is just excited about the newness of it all and the thrill one gets from doing it. As long as you are sound and take time to learn properly by surrounding yourself with those more experienced, hack away!

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quote:

Originally posted by thelawgod:

I know we's all thinking the same thing here, let me be the first to say it:

 

Thelawgoddess: Fucking calm yo ass down!!
[Mad]

 

It's great that you want to take up ice climbing this season--I'm happy for you, but as you've said right here on this board, your total experience is climbing some POS grey low angle ice (aka O-rock)--a whole 400 freaking feet--and doing some ice bouldering. Oh yeah, and that super easy, I-could-climb-it-with-my-eyes-closed, fake wall at Cascade Crags. That said, fucking stop acting like you know what the fuck you're talking about!

 

Listen, you ain't no ice climber yet! You haven't even had a taste of real ice yet. As someone who's climbed ice for several seasons now, let me tell you, be prepared to shit yo fucking pants when you finally get onto something worthy of being refered to as an ice climb. It's scary, and, frankly, you might even find that it's not for you.

 

And look, fucking forget about free soloing, solo TRing, drytooling, etc. Girlfriend, you're looking to get yer self killed. You are WAY over anxious about this whole ice thing. Look, here's my advice to you if you want to be an ice climber:

 

1. Calm yo ass down.

2. Quit acting like you know wtf you're talking about (and save some bandwidth for the rest of us)

3. Keep practicing with Col. Spanker et al--great exp. for when you actually do try to FOLLOW your first REAL ice climb.

4. Quite trying to be super ice woman--again, too cool that you're taking up this hobby, but ice climbing is not one of those things that you can safely jump into as fast as it appears you're trying to do.

 

Take care o' yo self, and don't fucking get killed on us.

[HORSECOCK][HORSECOCK][HORSECOCK][HORSECOCK][HORSECOCK][HORSECOCK]

All she did was ask where it was fuck face.

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quote:

Originally posted by COL. Von Spanker:

quote:

Originally posted by thelawgod:

I know we's all thinking the same thing here, let me be the first to say it:

 

Thelawgoddess: Fucking calm yo ass down!!
[Mad]

 

It's great that you want to take up ice climbing this season--I'm happy for you, but as you've said right here on this board, your total experience is climbing some POS grey low angle ice (aka O-rock)--a whole 400 freaking feet--and doing some ice bouldering. Oh yeah, and that super easy, I-could-climb-it-with-my-eyes-closed, fake wall at Cascade Crags. That said, fucking stop acting like you know what the fuck you're talking about!

 

Listen, you ain't no ice climber yet! You haven't even had a taste of real ice yet. As someone who's climbed ice for several seasons now, let me tell you, be prepared to shit yo fucking pants when you finally get onto something worthy of being refered to as an ice climb. It's scary, and, frankly, you might even find that it's not for you.

 

And look, fucking forget about free soloing, solo TRing, drytooling, etc. Girlfriend, you're looking to get yer self killed. You are WAY over anxious about this whole ice thing. Look, here's my advice to you if you want to be an ice climber:

 

1. Calm yo ass down.

2. Quit acting like you know wtf you're talking about (and save some bandwidth for the rest of us)

3. Keep practicing with Col. Spanker et al--great exp. for when you actually do try to FOLLOW your first REAL ice climb.

4. Quite trying to be super ice woman--again, too cool that you're taking up this hobby, but ice climbing is not one of those things that you can safely jump into as fast as it appears you're trying to do.

 

Take care o' yo self, and don't fucking get killed on us.

[HORSECOCK][HORSECOCK][HORSECOCK][HORSECOCK][HORSECOCK][HORSECOCK]

All she did was ask where it was fuck face.

Yeah, fuck... [Cool] Yer messin' with the Colonel's woman!!!

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I drytooled at merrymoore once, in the rain...it was kinda fun, people gave me weird looks.

 

I'd say the only "official" dry tool area is at Cascade Crags where they charge you to drytool "officialy."

 

I wouldn't rush off to go dry tooling though lawgoddess. It won't help your ice skills much, and most likely you will just dull your picks and bash yourself in the forehead. just do alot of pullups off the dowls at VW.

 

Keep ice bouldering untill shit freezes up in Lilooet, and don't top rope where people want to lead.

 

I sorta agree with the lawgod, get some experience doing it before you go spraying all over the net about ice climbing. But he was way lame about the way he said that.

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