Best pitch in the alpine?

[goatboy]

Give it up.

 

What's the best pitch in the alpine that you've climbed?

 

I'm not fishing for your resume, or looking to flaunt my own meager one, just curious what INDIVIDUAL pitches stand out in the minds of this community of alpinists.

 

For example, you might say, "The last pitch on the south face of Prussik Peak."

 

Or some might say, "the first gendarme pitch on the N. Ridge of Stuart."

 

You might chime in with, "the fifth pitch on the East Face of the Minuteman"

 

Something like that . . . hopefully more interesting or unique than my examples. Thanks for playing....

[John Frieh]

If I could only pick one (or can we pick more?) it would have to be the fifth pitch of the open book route on finger of fate (though most people run 3 and 4 together to make it 4):

 

[Alpinfox]

 

edit: YO NOLSe! RESIZE YOUR PICTURE!

 

I haven't climbed too many things that aren't in the selected climbs type books, so my answers won't be very original or unique, but:

 

The last two pitches of the West Face of NEWS stand out in my mind due to their incredible position and the fact that the first of the two is my hardest alpine lead to date.

 

The two bolted pitches on DEB of SEWS are really sweet too. I was giggling to myself while climbing that route it was so good.

 

Final pitch & half of Outer Space are incredible.

 

I guess Davis-Holland/Lovin' Arms isn't "Alpine".

Edited December 30, 2004 by Alpinfox

[goatboy]

Yeah! Keep em coming!

 

The Finger of Fate looks incredible, by the way!!!

 

Anyone else? Pictures are pretty convincing....

[DPS]

How about the waterfall pitches on Triple couloir.

[dberdinka]

I've gloated about it here before but some of the best alpine rock I've ever climbed was on Cathedral Peak and Ampitheatre Mountain in the Pasayten.

 

The third pitch of Pilgrimage to Mecca on Ka'aba Buttress was incredible. You follow a perfect finger crack in a dihedral for 80' then break out of the corner into vertical double handcracks for another 70', all at a moderate grade The sense of discovery we experienced certainly sweetens the memory.

 

Middle-Finger Buttress Left-Side Route has a **** pitch of 5.10 crack climbing. Dead-vertical hand jams to stemming to fingertip liebacking on rough, grippy rock.

 

The southeast buttress of Cathedral Peak is amazing as well. Almost every pitch is classic. The crux headwall is two pitches of perfect hand and finger jamming (5.9,5.10a).

 

Elsewhere,

 

the "slab" pitch (p12 or something) on Springbok Arete in the Anderson River Area is incredible climbing on incredible rock in an incredibly airy position. Plus all the crux pitches are behind you, yahoo!

 

There is a pitch on the Becky-Chouinard maybe a 1/3 to 1/2 the way up that is a perfect 5.8 handcrack corner for a full pitch. Though my memory has grown hazy I still remember that one pitch being particulary awesome on a climb loaded with good pitches.

 

It would be interesting to here about peoples favorite "alpine" or "mixed" pitches in the Cascades. I haven't pitched out a whole lot of ice/mixed stuff. Like DPS said, Triple Couliors was certainly good stuff.

Check em out!

 

[Bug]

The 7th and tenth pitches of Modern Home Environment on Nez Pierce Spire in Blodgett Canyon MT.

Pitch 7 is a splitter hand crack that goes at about 5.9. I got to be the first to climb it.

Pitch 10 is teh giant roof pitch that goes at 5.9. By far the airiest pitch I have ever lead and I got to do the first lead. Since we were not sure how much rope we would have, we left the end tied into a pin under the roof. I also had to clean that. I placed a small stopper and stood on it while cleaning the KB. Then I pulled the rappel rope as tight as I could. It stretched about 12 feet horizontal and there is a good 2200' of space to the creek bottom. Then I jumped up a little and yanked the stopper and flew out into Blodgett Canyon. Life is sweet.

[jordop]

Pitches 2-4 on Back of Beyond. Incredible 10a-b 90 minutes from the car.

[Blake]

It'd be great if folks could mention general where these places are. (assuming you aren't saying "north Ridge stuart" etc..)

[jordop]

Complete lowdown

[MCash]

I'd have to say my favorite is Fun Roof on Chimney Rock, Idaho. Super fun pitch (imagine that).

 

[eric8]

the hand fist crack pitch on rebel yell

[John Frieh]

If you didn't know Finger of Fate is in the Sawtooths in Idaho… if you want to go climb this let me know… I climb it at least once a year. And if you drive that far you should also climb some routes on the elephant’s perch which is a hop skip and a jump from the finger… recommended routes include the mtneers route (the roof pitch is spectacular 5.8), astro elephant (I can only pick one pitch?), and definitely the fine line (these three routes are all on the elephant’s perch among other classics… I have topos for almost all of them in my gallery).

 

Jason headed for the 3 tier roof on the Mtneers route:

 

Ron sniffing his butt (yet again) mid roof:

 

 

Brock sewing on lower astro:

 

Astro Elephant is in center of face (kinda makes WA pass look puny huh?):

 

WA pass awesome pitches:

 

Hand crack on Rebel Yell (wine spires… sorry no pics).

 

If you’re into wideness the offwidth/chimney pitches (pitches 6 and 7) on e face of Lexington are a hoot. Bring a 2” by 6” and a saw or some tube chocks and wear either a crappy shirt or even better a leather vest for thrashing in the wideness:

 

 

 

I agree with fox… the upper pitches of the w face of NEWS are a hoot… especially if you link pitches (linkable pitches).

 

willstrickland’s pic:

 

 

The 8th (7 if you run 6 and 7 together which you should) on liberty crack is great (sorry no pic… there is a roof right off the anchor so the belayer can’t see you).

 

Enchantments:

The 5.6 slab with crack splitting it on the n ridge of stuart is absolute an alpine setting classic… especially if you don’t have bivy gear on your back. But then again the whole ridge is. Basically climb this route in your lifetime and pick the pitch you like most. But don’t let yourself climb it until you are competent enough to do it in a day.

 

From above:

Running:

 

The upper pitches of the west ridge of stuart in winter/early spring are awesome… climbing onto the north face past the pin is some awesome exposure. Climb Stuart Glacier Couloir or Razorback ridge to access these.

 

Loren’s (cascadeclimber) pic:

 

[chestbeat] The rock fall variation on the girth pillar is granite perfection. Please bring me my crampons back if you climb it [/chestbeat]. Zoom in

 

Prusik: climb all the routes and pick your fav.

 

Goatboy: excellent discussion… I wish more people would chime in… can anyone comment on

 

- central pillar of swiss peak

- Cutthroat - Firefighter

- SEWS – Infurno

- Stuart – Kearney route

- Lexington - Tooth and Claw

[Dru]

whatever dude. it's all good if it's alpine.

[John Frieh]

Haven't climbed in OR much have you?

 

Just kidding... I agree... mine are merely the best of what I have climbed IMO...

[Dru]

But there is nothing alpine in Oregon...

[John Frieh]

Careful... Iain "Icy Couloir" Morris is gonna get ya!

[Dru]

I note how Iain leaves OR when he wants to do some real climbing.

[carolyn]

Outer Space - Last pitch (pitch and a half if you dont run it out) was awesome!

 

SEWS-Need Uncle Tricky to chime in for the exact route. The double roof pitch was crazy, wild fun!

[Stefan]

Gunsight. Next to last pitch.

 

I liked the scenery and the feeling of remoteness as I was doing it. Solid stuff too.

[John Frieh]

Which route on Gunsight? Which peak?

[bobbyperu]

carolyn... would that be the boving route with it dubble roof pitch..? if so yup good fun.

[carolyn]

bobbyperu - thats it! Thanks.

[Stefan]

Which route on Gunsight? Which peak?

 

Sorry I aint no 5.10 climber for the north peak. The pitch I am talking about is the pitch to the Main Peak from the summit ridge notch. Simple class 5. It was just fun being there not having to think too much in a great setting.

[Marko]

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