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Posted

So last Christmas a relative who does a bunch of travelling for work gave me enough air miles for two tickets anywhere in the incontinent US. I'm thinking of going somewhere for some nice clipping in the middle of ski season. Any ideas? Friends have told me that Red Rocks can be really hit or miss in January and that the wind can really whistle through JTree, so I'm thinking of either Flying to Tahoe and driving to Bishop to boulder in the snow, or flying to Denver and driving to Shelf for miles of monotonous bolt ladders. Yeah I thought about Potrero, but I teach Spanish better than I speak it [Wink] Missing any other ideas?

 

[ 09-03-2002, 01:20 PM: Message edited by: jordop ]

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Posted

Yeah, Cochise, that's a thought. Every time I hear that name I think of the mustachioed LA cop in the BBoy's "Sabotage" video. There should be a crag called "Ponch". [big Grin]

Posted

Smith in January is almost as bad as Vantage in January; I've done 'em both. Foggy, bout six hours of sunlight, humid air, blah! Last time I went to Smith in January the bridge was out and we brought this stupid little rubber dingy to get across the Crooked in the fog; it was like some demented out-take from the Holy Grail!

 

[ 09-03-2002, 01:42 PM: Message edited by: jordop ]

Posted

If you're looking to sport climb in winter and you don't go to Red Rox, you're fucking up. The Doctor has been making the post-Christmas Red Rox trip for the past ... hmmm, six years or so, and the weather is great down there. It has consistently been more blue skies than grey, rarely enough precipitation to shut down climbing (i.e. maybe only a few days out of those past several years), and often warm enough in the sun to be in just shorts and no shirt. Of course, in the shade or when the clouds hit, you will be back in your fleece pants and down jacket, nursing numb fingers, but that's the exception.

 

The new campground is nice, and it's a mile from the main road so it's pretty quiet. Unfortunately, the road has got the most jarring speed-bumps ever created on it, and it's ten bucks a night, but it beats staying at the "glasslands" out by the highway. Buy the annual pass for the loop drive, clip some bolts, hit the boulders, and enjoy the hell out of yourself. You can thank Dr. Flash Amazing later (route beta and other spray available on request).

 

[ 09-03-2002, 01:43 PM: Message edited by: Dr Flash Amazing ]

Posted

Try somewhere different. If you don't go to El Potrero, which I can't understand why not, then try climbing steep sandstone in the South! You have Amazing places in Alabama, Tennessee, and North Carolina. Think Linneville Gorge, Foster Falls, T-Wall, Suck Creek Canyon, Obed River Gorge, Tallulah Gorge, and Sunset Rock all within 2-3 hours of each other. You could fly into Nashville, Hotlanta, or Birmingham. Eye candy:http://www.seclimbers.org/images/foster-falls--lance_darkie_13a-98.jpg

and good beta: http://www.seclimbers.org/board.shtml

Posted

Yeah, that's Darkie at Foster Falls in the 2nd Bunker (there is more than one). Plenty of steep sandstone caves like this and they don't all go at .13. There are some good ones at .11a. Think completely overhanging with huge jugs. Plus, you can climb up under the 70 ft waterfall on overhanging sandstone only to drop into 30 ft. of water when you get pumped. (Prob. won't be doing that in January) God, sometimes I miss living minutes away from that place! oh yeah, and the S-stone is not like desert s-stone. It isa bullet hard with fused bands of iron (lisegang bands) [big Grin] for sharp crimpers to boot!

Posted

I dunno, I've never been there but a Southern tour has good adventure potential, and it's milking some extra miles out of those free tix to get you somewhere too far to drive otherwise. Ditto for Potrero. I agree that J-Tree is a total crapshoot in the winter: maybe good for climbing; maybe only good for bundling up, doing psychedelics and wandering around by moonlight. Red Rocks is great, though I've never been in January, but Vegas is a fairly cheap plane ticket if you had to buy one, so it might not be your most effective freebie usage. Cochise in January can be pretty damn brisk and windy, and the cold can chase you pretty low on Mt Lemmon which is less attractive than the stuff higher up.

 

You could have a good time in San Diego, that Mediterranean climate is pretty easy in the winter. If you are a crack fanatic, Mt. Woodson would rock your world, Santee is awesome face climbing (but have your tip calluses already in place) and there's lots of other bouldering/cragging areas.

 

But still, I think your best bet is to go somewhere far enough away you'd not likely go there without free travel, and with two tickets, you could have your choice of partners. I really think Ryland has your hottest recommendation.

 

[ 09-03-2002, 02:04 PM: Message edited by: Off White ]

Posted

Lawgoddess, if you do end up heading south, I will offer beta for fresh Hot boiled Peanuts and a jar of Duke's mayonnaise! If you don't know what this means, it will be self-explanatory after spending a day down there. If you want recs. on spots and places to go within close prox. of each other lemme know.

Posted

To get you started, try and find the "Depp South Climber's Companion" It was the bible on climbing in the SOuth but I heard it is out of printy. Try and see if the updated "Dixie Cragger's Atlas" is out, by the same author, Chris Watford. Pretty comprehensive.

Posted

The south facing "Cactus Cliff" section of Shelf is pretty sweet in the winter, with temps in the high 50's to low 70's most days, and incredible views down the valley and out to the Sangre's. The camping is pleasant and convenient, and there's usually folks from all over the US and Europe hanging out there to hang out with if you're feeling social. If you're looking to mix in some skiing both Monarch and Wolf Creek are within driving range in the Southern part of the state. Penitente Canyon is another climbing option if you're looking to mix things up a bit, as is the south facing stuff out in the Platte if you get hungry for some trad.

Posted

I've never been there, but Tahquitz Canyon just outside of Palm Springs would have better weather than J-Tree in December.

 

Someone who knows what they are talking about can tell you if this is really a good idea or not climbingwise, but I can tell you the weather would probably be good. Palm Springs is not far from J-Tree, but the elevation's lower.

Posted

Taquitz Canyon (Rock) is closer to Idylwild than PS, and at about 5k to 6k feet. It typically has snow at that time of year.

 

J-tree, in the Mohave, while well-chilled at night, is gorgeous during the day. Great place to be for Kissmass. [big Grin]

Posted

Ach! You don't need to speak spanish to head to Potrero! I haven't been, but from what I've heard from people I know that, unless you climb mainly 13's and above, it's way fun, and being in a diff country adds alot of charm to the whole experience. I'd go!

 

Also, from my experience, red rocks can be really good during the winter, although weather can move in quick. we got rained on, snowed on, tornadoed on, but it was still good. Now, if you only have a limited amount of time, it shore would suck to be in a blizzard the whole time. That's why i'd go south, young man! [smile]

Posted

Red rocks or Potrero would both be great. Potrero is not hard. You can give the taxi driver a map or something from the internet and they'll drive you all the way out for about 35 bucks. Avacadoes 10 for a dollar too! Once your there you never speak spanish. It is busy around christmas and new years though. [Wazzup]

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