140m Ropes?

[Spliffy]

I'm thinking of switching from one 70m x 9.2mm to one 140m x 8.1mm for longer alpine routes. Climb with it doubled up, huge rap advantage. THought?

[RuMR]

are these beal ice lines by the meter? Where are you finding them??

[Dru]

make your partner carry 140m of 8.1

[specialed]

70's too long in the first place in my opinion. What are the advantages of having a full 140 anyway? One disadvantage I can think of is that it would be a pain in the ass to carry and you can't split it up b/w partners.

[payaso]

Have fun coiling it.

[iain]

It would be a bitch at a rap station sorting through miles of the same-colored skinny rope.

[Alpinfox]

untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle OH SHIT!!! I FOUND A KNOT!!!! untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle OH SHIT!!! I FOUND A KNOT!!!! untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle

untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle OH SHIT!!! I FOUND A KNOT!!!! untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle

[Dru]

on the other hand if you get a core shot 30m from one end you can still salvage a 110m rope out of it!

[Rad]

You'd get a killer workout from dragging that slender anaconda through a few pieces of pro,

but that's easily solved, just don't place pro...then you could fall 280m before shockloading the belay.

[rbw1966]

Shockloading? Don't you mean bungy jumping?

[Don_Serl]

Simon Richardson, an alpinist of respectable credentials and experience, tells me he has gone back to 50s for alpine routes. he notes (obviously, but strangely overlooked in these days of "light is right") that longer ropes are heavier, and that because of the broken terrain one often encounters in the mountains, they are TOO long for most "comfortable" pitches - especially when u want decent communications between partners.

not everyone has the moxie to go against the grain, eh?

cheers,

[Stemalot]

140m rope? I am thinking about carrying a 60 m x 8.1 mm and use it as a double rope for 30 meters! This of course depends on the type of terrain one is on. I say go light!

[Spliffy]

You lead on the rope doubled up, then simul when it's all paid out. The leader carries a double rack. You can link pitches together like mad. 70-->50m rappels, and you don't need to bring any tat.

[cracked]

You can't simul on 70m.

 

It'll be a bitch.

[larrythellama]

a double rack, hahahahaha!

[cman]

i just saw a spool today that was 120m, i definitely would not want to lug that think around.

 

why not just use double ropes? as for rapping it is not too hard to tie knots.

[Jens]

I'm not sure but it kinda seems like cascade descents often don' t involve tons of rapping? And if you are bailing in fickle weather, it seems like we do much more downclimbing then rapping? Any thoughts?

----

I've also gone back to a 50m for many alpine routes.--

I recently used a 46m 9.4mm on a day climb of Girth Pillar and thought it was the shit.

Also it seems like you can get 50's for really cheap?. I think perhaps the way to go with ropes is to buy cheap and buy often? Anyone have any thoughts?

 

I've seen French climbers use single 100m 8mm duodess cords. I wonder if they like em'?

 

 

[Dru]

had to simul 5m on a 65m pitch today, would have been 15m simuling or a very shitty intermediate belay at 35m with 50s, i'll take the 60 thanks could have done it without simul with a 70.

[dryad]

Similar earlier discussion here

[Cpt.Caveman]

Sometimes people buy things and try to convince themselves later on that it was a good deal or investment. I am guilty of it sometimes too. I think a 140 meter rope could fall into this category. There are better advantages in my opinion to having 2 ropes of each 70m as opposed to one 140m.

[Bug]

I climbed on twin 50s for a couple decades. Now I have a 60 that is really nice. When it wears out, I will get another 60 but only because there are so many people using them and the anchors are getting spaced that way. I would rather have twin 8.8's at 50 for efficiency though. I have not ever had a problem getting up or getting down. But that was doing 1st ascents in remote places.

[rbw1966]

Why do you use twins that are so fat? They sound more like half-ropes at that diameter.

[Bug]

For belaying two partners and more importantly, so I can prussick on them without having to do the Clint Eastwood shoelace thing. Another advantage is the overall wear & tear that they will take. I have only retired one 9mm or 8.8 in 20 years due to sheath wear. All the others were retired due to age and/or leader-falls. I do have a 7mm X 60m now for those days when I solo and want to rap off but it does not see much use.