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Everything posted by Don_Serl

  1. I love some of those names - so appropriate, right above the traffic circle. "Turn-Style". "Circle Jerk". Still missing "The Runaround"; "Dizzy", etc, etc...
  2. well done Wayne and Jenn. I can well understand the time pressure; there is a LOT of terrain, and while not much of it is 'hard', it's really serious, eh? btw, the South Peak it pretty quick, from more-or-less its upper saddle. I recall maybe 2 pitches? and quick rap back down... but that's for next time...
  3. Climb: Slesse SE Divide-partial traverse Date of Climb: 7/9/2006 Trip Report: I've long thought it'd be a superb outing to traverse the entire Slesse divide from SE to N. Rob Nugent and I drove out Friday evening and camped near the start of the trail. We were up at 4:30 and away at 6. 2 1/2 hours saw us to the Propellor cairn, where we lounged for nearly an hour, then we headed south for another hour and a half across snowfields (stay high) to the spur ridge at the SE'ern extent of the massif, where we had third breakfast and snoozed another hour. A cool little nearly-hidden descent ledge took us down into the boulder basin beyond, and in 40 mins more we burst out onto the superb 1750m meadowed pass on the Slesse-Nesakwatch divide. This ought to be a popular hiking destination, as the terrain is superb and the views are awesome. We were confident of the weather and just sleeping under the stars, so it was with some hilarity that I heard Robert mumble "You've got to be kidding!" when raindrops started to spatter down at 2 am, but the front soon passed. We got away at about 6:30 under decent skies and cruised up the ridgecrest, generally avoiding difficulties on the left. The first significant summit is that which carries Labour Day buttress; Robert wandered off onto the E face to finish, but that looked to me too exposed, so I stuck to the SE ridge, which was enliven with several short steps surmounted by means of a series of wide-ish cracks. We hit the top at 8 am. Pretty easy scrambling led down the NW face (right of the crest), and a sling invited us to rap the final 20m into the col. The E ridge of the next peak (2126m) looked kinda difficult, but a "John Clarke 4th class" scrambling route unfolded: starting on the left, crossing a slab beneath a bulge onto the right flank, weaving up the easiest (often grassy) line on this NE face to beneath a band of overhangs protecting the summit, then oozing out left again onto the crest of the ridge. Here we pulled out the rope and Robert led a pleasant 20m crack pitch to the top - time for 2nd breakfast! We dropped easily into the next col, then followed the crest till this steepened, at which point it seemed best to traverse left thru a bit of bush into an open sandy gully in the center of the S face. A slow plod up this brought us to the 2187m summit at about 11:30, and the realization that we ought to call it a day - I was fighting a cold, hacking and wheezing, and travelling much too slowly to make completion of the balance of the crest reasonable that day. The return was not uneventful: a somewhat tenuous traverse line led around the SW side of 2126 from the col with 2187, then we had to gain a touch of height to get into and out of a steep-sided gully on the S side, but soon enough we were out onto easy snowfields on the SW side of the divide. Soon we were glad indeed we had turned back, cuz half an hour before regaining the bivy steady rain began. The plod out was sunnier, but the wet bush treated us to the full rinse cycle before flushing us out to the truck at supper-time. Beer and burgers awaited in Chilliwack. Gear Notes: 60m 8.5mm rope; half-dozen slings; 6 nuts; 4 tricams; iceaxe. Approach Notes: normal Slesse E-side approach to Propellor cairn, then traverse snowfields SE. find hidden ledge to gain boulder field beyond - marked with cairn.
  4. Does anyone have a copy of Gripped magazine Vol 15 / issue 3: 6/7 ( i.e. June/July 2013) lying around, that they could part with. I have a hole that I'm trying to fill, and the Gripped people don't have that back issue available. Message me, or ( better yet) email at dserl@telus.net . Thanx. Don.
  5. Laurel Fan

    as an fyi, I've had a conversation with Mike King, who as most of you will know, is the pilot at White Saddle Air Services, who fly most climbers in and out of the Range (and who flew Laurel). from what he tells me, special commendations must go to both the BC SAR officials and to the BC Forest Service regarding their responses to this unfortunate accident. in the former case, first, no effort was spared in the actual search, even with a dog team and special handlers from Alberta being long-lined into a very dangerous field of operation; and secondly because they covered the helicopter costs for the family and partner to visit the scene to help 'make peace' with the outcome and bring closure. and to the BCFS, in the midst of fighting an intense nearby forest fire ( at Dumbbell Lake), with a hundred man camp in operation and every available resource ( including the White Saddle helicopters) in action, they said " take a couple hours; you go do what you have to do; we'll fight the fire afterwards". Laurel's death rends my heart, but responses such as these gladden my soul.
  6. I'm trying to post some info about a quest by YKK for old MEC Couloir Jackets, and I'm having trouble. Content to follow when I get things sorted...
  7. YKK seeking MEC Couloir Jacket(s)

    The Request: Twenty five years ago the world of outdoor apparel was about to undergo a revolution, and Mountain Equipment Co-op was at the forefront. YKK, which supplied the zippers for MEC apparel (and still does) is looking for examples of I) the Couloir Jacket ( Fall/Winter 1993); II) the Couloir 2 Jacket (1994 onwards); and III) the Super Couloir Jacket (1999 onwards). If you have an old Couloir, Couloir 2, or Super Couloir sitting in your basement, a few years beyond its days of being your stalwart for the outdoors, they'd like to add it to their collection. How does this work? Well, YKK doesn't want ALL the old Couloirs, just one or two examples in reasonably presentable condition. The Couloir and Couloir 2 ran for half a dozen years virtually unchanged ( 3-ply construction, chest pockets, removable hood) and went thru a variety of two-tone colour combinations, but they can be distinguished from the later Super Couloir by a sewn-on label on the chest - the Super Couloir evolved to a logo embroidered directly to the chest fabric. What to do? The contact at YKK is Masaki Ichimura. Email a 'full frontal' photo of your jacket ( phone is fine) to Mr. Ichimura at masakiichimura@ykk-usa.com. If your jacket is 'of interest' YKK will contact you and will provide you with shipping details. If your jacket is kept, then YKK will reimburse you for the purchase of a new jacket, with a value up to $800 Canadian ( $600 US) - any size, any colour, any brand, any style - completely your choice. Simply pass along the receipt for reimbursement. If your jacket is not kept, YKK will ship it back to you prepaid, together with payment to cover your outbound shipping costs and a $50 'thank you' gratuity.
  8. YKK seeking MEC Couloir Jacket(s)

    The Preamble: The early 90s were an exciting time in the outdoor industry, with expansion and innovation taking place with great vigour. At that time, I was the buyer for outerwear at MEC, and I had the privilege of working with the brilliant designer, Mike Blenkarn, later to go on to achieve even more wondrous things at Arc'teryx. We both had a role in the introduction of reversed-coil, exposed, polyurethane-coated, water-resistant zippers in Gore-Tex jackets, and I'm pleased to be able to help YKK in their quest to recover some 'artefacts' from that time. Details follow...
  9. Grivel G12's

    The precision of the toe bail type system is unbeatable. Also, they're warmer in really cold conditions. As for the welt wear issue, it's for sure an issue, but judicious use of a rat-tail file will keep the attachment groove plenty secure for years... And don't be afraid to bend the toe bails a bit to improve the mating between your boots and the crampons.
  10. Scarpa Weisshorn sz 45

    Somehow I missed posting these when i did my clean-out a month or so ago... so here they are now: They don't build boots like this any more! Hefty leather and high rands ensure waterproofness and warmth. The full shank makes this the stiffest boot I have seen in 35 years of climbing ( stiffer than a Nepal Top, which was the standard back when I bought these). That was exactly what I was after for precise footwork on rock and perfect control of crampons on ice. Despite that, somehow Scarpa figured out how to combine the lasting and sole curvature so that long (even multi-day) approaches and descents are tolerable. Top grain leather lining is far more durable than modern synthetics. Of course, the penalty for all the 'structure' is weight, and these 45's check out at about 2.8kg vs a Scarpa Manta of the same size at about 2.1 kg. Sole edges are rounded, but there is a lot of life left before a re-soling would be necessary. 20151067 by Don Serl, on Flickr 20151071 - Copy by Don Serl, on Flickr
  11. Scarpa Weisshorn sz 45

  12. Scarpa Vegas sz 12

    Plastic mountaineering boots have been eclipsed by modern leather footwear over the past decade or so, but they are still unbeatable for extreme cold and/or high altitudes, especially for places like Logan, Denali, and the greater ranges. The Vega is still ‘the workhorse’ of the Himalayas, with remarkable toughness and durability, superb warmth, highly useable flexibility, and perfectly acceptable comfort. The shells show considerable surface abrasion, but are without defects or flaws. The liners are in very good condition. Also included are: 1. A set of Scarpa Thermo liners, size 12; super-light, super-warm, but sweatier and less snug-fitting than the normal liners. I’ve modified them with an instep strap for better security of fit (i.e., less heel lift). The black plastic covering on the softer foam trims is flaking to bits, but a shoe repair shop should be able to reface these areas with light leather. 2. Two sets of Intuition liners, one 10mm thickness (red) and the other 12mm (black), for extreme cold. 3. One pair of DaKine heel cinch straps: a canny little Velcro system that secures the liners much better to your foot, preventing heel lift. Size 12 / euro 45 CDN $ 50 for all. . 20151074 by Don Serl, on Flickr . 20151078 by Don Serl, on Flickr . 20151080 by Don Serl, on Flickr . 20151081 by Don Serl, on Flickr . 20151085 by Don Serl, on Flickr
  13. Scarpa Vegas sz 12

    bump. still available. Denali season is coming...
  14. Hyalite/Bozeman beta

    Summer 2103 I stayed in Bozeman at the Royal 7, which was clean, cheap, and local. Dinner at the nearby Fresco Café was really good.
  15. [TR] Wyoming - Leaning Tree 1/9/2016

    I sense a story... cheers, Don
  16. Cleaning out the basement! two groups: vol 8 #12 Dec'62 + all of 1963 + all of 1964 21 items approx 6 lbs 18 issues between Apr'74 and Jan/Feb '87 approx 7 lbs Free. You pay postage. My postal code is V5Z 1Z9 - you can use the Canada Post or USPS sites to calculate the approx charges.
  17. Cleaning out the basement! 'later' Climbing magazine ( perfect bound, i.e., glued binding ) issues: 104,105,109,111,113,115,117,118,124,128 Oct'87 thru Oct/Nov'91 10 items approx 9 lbs Free. You pay postage. My postal code is V5Z 1Z9 - you can use the Canada Post or USPS sites to calculate the approx charges.
  18. 'later' Climbing magazine back issue GONE!

    That took half a day! Alpinists to John Frieh; Mtn Review to Duncan; and the rest to Jerry Johnson, at the Uni of Montana Outdoor Ed program in Bozeman. Great homes for all. i'm so happy i didn't just toss them all in the recycling.
  19. Cleaning out the basement! Alpinist: issues 1,2,3,6,7,8,11,16,17,20,21,23,24,25,26,27,32,33,37 Winter 02/03 - winter 11/12 19 items approx 18 lbs Free. You pay postage. My postal code is V5Z 1Z9 - you can use the Canada Post or USPS sites to calculate the approx charges.
  20. Alpinist magazine back issues GONE!!!

    I'm very happy to say these have gone to one of the keenest members of this forum, John Frieh. Happy they have a home where they'll be used and appreciated!
  21. Cleaning out the basement, I'm giving away all my old climbing magazine back issues... except for these! Between Mar/Apr 1993 and July /Aug 1994, this short-lived British magazine attempted to do what Alpinist did a decade later in the USA: provide glossy, in-depth, high quality coverage of mountains, people, and issues. It was edited by Ed Douglas, also known for editing The Alpine Journal, and the author of 'Tenzing: Hero of Everest', amongst other works. As well as excellent coverage of new routing in the Alps and Himalayas plus elsewhere, plus the 'usual' inclusions of gear and book reviews, etc, Mtn Rev published 'big' articles, well researched, well written, and well illustrated. Issue 1 looks at Everest. Issue 2 focuses on the Grand Pilier d'Angle, Patagonia, and the Wendenstock. Issue 3 profiles Fred Beckey and Chamonix. Issue 4 delves deep into Russia. Issue 5 explores Cerro Kishtwar and Poles in the Himalaya. Issue 6 digs into Scotland and Yosemite. Issue 7 features Glen Coe, the Caucasas, Tomo Cesen, and Erhard Loretan. Issue 8 looks at K2 and the Antarctic. Issue 9 includes Cerro Torre, Sweden, and Shiprock. ...and then it was gone! All copies are in excellent condition. Issues were generally 90 or 82 pages. The per issue price 'back in the day' was US $4.95. The same seems more than fair for what are now undoubtedly quite rare 'collectables', so US$ 45. You pay postage, about 5 lbs shipping weight. Mountain Review complete set by Don Serl, on Flickr
  22. Complete set 'Mountain Review' magazine GONE!!!

    I've got a buyer...
  23. Cleaning out the basement! 'early' Climbing magazine (staple binding) issues: J/A'74,S/O'74,41,44,46,47,48,51,53,56,57,62,63,64,70,71,75,78,80,81,85,87,89,90,92,93,96,97,98,99, and 100 July-Aug'74 thru Feb'87 31 issues apporx 14 lbs Free. You pay postage. My postal code is V5Z 1Z9 - you can use the Canada Post or USPS sites to calculate the approx charges.
  24. Cleaning out the basement! Off Belay: issue numbers 15,18,27,36,42,43,47,49,50,55 June'74 - Feb'81 10 items approx 4 1/2 lbs Free. You pay postage. My postal code is V5Z 1Z9 - you can use the Canada Post or USPS sites to calculate the approx charges.
  25. Cleaning out the basement! Rock and Ice: issue numbers 7,11,13,14,15,16,18,21,23,27,44,45 Mar'85 - Sep/Oct'91 12 items approx 8 lbs Free. You pay postage. My postal code is V5Z 1Z9 - you can use the Canada Post or USPS sites to calculate the approx charges.