layton Posted June 30, 2004 Posted June 30, 2004 Backbone on dragontail has a good offwidth pitch. and of course aries at index, sure that section is only 15ft but it is good chimney hey I already said that! Quote
Drederek Posted June 30, 2004 Posted June 30, 2004 P3 of careno corners. Last twelve feet of split pillar. Perry's lieback. 2nd half P1 of loving arms. P1 of heavens gate (a discontinuous chimney). 6 feet of the west face of picaboo tower. Some ugly thing at the bottom right of domestic dome. Snag crack. Penguins in bondage. The "easy " way up to cruel shoes. The descent of the squaw. Bloodthirst and mushmaker. Quote
eric8 Posted June 30, 2004 Posted June 30, 2004 burgner/stanley on prussik has some chimney and a short bit of ow on first pitch anyone ever climb the ape and ballerina at index, guidebook says pitch 1 is a fist crack that overhangs by 25ft. now if only i could talk someone into hiking up there. also it would be really cool if someone would point out a 5.9 or so OW in a cragging enviroment that you could run laps on to really hone the technique. Unlike Carnival which destroys me after one lap. Quote
sobo Posted June 30, 2004 Posted June 30, 2004 also it would be really cool if someone would point out a 5.9 or so OW in a cragging enviroment that you could run laps on to really hone the technique. I already did. Ignorant Pursuit at Royal Columns. RC a cragging environment? - check, Off width? - check, 5.8+ is "5.9 or so" isn't it? - check Easily top-roped by doing adjacent routes or hiking up the left-side trail - check, Has dual anchor chains/rap station - check, Can be TR'ed with a single rope - check Conclusion: Enjoy! Quote
Szyjakowski Posted June 30, 2004 Posted June 30, 2004 damnation, easter overhang.... big bertha looks nice. all ltown. anyone done sidewinder lib bell? Quote
thrutch Posted June 30, 2004 Posted June 30, 2004 madsen's chim in lworth you could run laps on. it is right next to lacuchrcha on madesen's buttress. Quote
catbirdseat Posted June 30, 2004 Posted June 30, 2004 If you look directly across Icicle Canyon from the top of Icicle Buttress, you see what looks to be a long offwidth or chimney. What is it? Quote
TimL Posted June 30, 2004 Posted June 30, 2004 Easy chimneys that come to mind would be the Fault at lower Castle Rock and Midway at upper Castle. You can also go up to Puck Rock and TR Shot Down in flames which is a 5.8/10a offwidth to four inches and is really good plus its a super cool place to hang out. Quote
TimL Posted June 30, 2004 Posted June 30, 2004 ...and there is Sagitarius at Index which overs a little offwidth and a little chimney in one hard, kinda scary pitch. and the Becky route on Liberty Bell has an easy chimney. Quote
MCash Posted June 30, 2004 Posted June 30, 2004 R.H. Factor at Tum Tum has a really nice section of clean 5" crack in a dihedral. Seven Virgins and a Mule, Steel Grill, and Disaster Factor at the Coulee are all good climbs. I second the Fault and Damnation on Castle Rock. Quote
slaphappy Posted June 30, 2004 Posted June 30, 2004 If you look directly across Icicle Canyon from the top of Icicle Buttress, you see what looks to be a long offwidth or chimney. What is it? Directly across? Rat Dome? Can't really think of a continuous chimney/off width there. Slightly west is Nurse Rock which does have a couple of good offwidths and an "entertaining" 5.7d chimney complete with portable holds, bird dung, and shrubs. Across from Castle Rock is Big Bad Wolf 10b, anyone do it yet? Looks really good. How about The Thumb 5.11 up by Clem's? I know of quite a few wide ones up high in the canyons but the hike vs. climb ratio gets pretty distorted. Quote
thrutch Posted June 30, 2004 Posted June 30, 2004 It's Leavenworth the hike vs climb is always distorted, tho the dirt is limitless and that makes the hike worth it! Quote
Szyjakowski Posted July 1, 2004 Posted July 1, 2004 If you look directly across Icicle Canyon from the top of Icicle Buttress, you see what looks to be a long offwidth or chimney. What is it? the offwidth thru the roof is barnrat. on rat dome; unfortunately access is kinda fuked. we need a bridge. yo access fund people who read this site we neeed a bridge in the icicle to get to rat creek!!!! Quote
chelle Posted July 1, 2004 Posted July 1, 2004 Damnation on Castle is a favorite thrutch. Vector in Squamish was fun too. Quote
catbirdseat Posted July 1, 2004 Posted July 1, 2004 There is an unnamed 5.6 (5.8 if you ask crackbolter) chimney on the third pitch of champagne. It is rather obscure, but pretty cool in my opinion. If the second carries the pack, be sure to speak up and volunteer to lead that sucker. It is a sort of simultaneous climb/45 degree traverse, for want of a better way of describing it. It is like a huge boulder that clove in two with a gap of about 24-36 inches. Your pro is in small cracks on the right side. You finish the pitch by surmounting (what else?) the obligatory chockstone. Quote
EWolfe Posted July 1, 2004 Posted July 1, 2004 If you look directly across Icicle Canyon from the top of Icicle Buttress, you see what looks to be a long offwidth or chimney. What is it? the offwidth thru the roof is barnrat. on rat dome; unfortunately access is kinda fuked. we need a bridge. yo access fund people who read this site we neeed a bridge in the icicle to get to rat creek!!!! While you are at it, how about a bridge just above Swiftwater. Thanks in advance! Quote
eric8 Posted July 1, 2004 Posted July 1, 2004 damnation feels contrived as a thrutch because it can be easily stemmed Quote
slaphappy Posted July 1, 2004 Posted July 1, 2004 the offwidth thru the roof is barnrat. on rat dome; unfortunately access is kinda fuked. we need a bridge. yo access fund people who read this site we neeed a bridge in the icicle to get to rat creek!!!! Thanx Szyjakowski, you're damn straight on that. Quote
lancegranite Posted July 1, 2004 Posted July 1, 2004 Sounds like all you need is 100 feet of black 1/4'' steel cable and a come a long. retail cost: $200 Quote
bobbyperu Posted July 1, 2004 Posted July 1, 2004 inferno route SEWS. follows a chimney system for a bit then theres the offwidth... flaring five inch overhanging. real classic stuff on an amazing face. i'd also agree about the dolphin chimney, also on burgundy theres a cool squeeze chimney near the top...but my fav may be the 5.8 chimney on cbr west face. very exposed thrutching, with solid pro. theres always good offwidth or chimneys on any good alpine rock route Quote
maryk Posted July 7, 2004 Posted July 7, 2004 It was too steep and scary looking for me...but P.8 of Angel's Crest in Squamish is a *sweet* off-width that you better bring a big-bro for. (those intimidated by the o-w do the 5.9 finger/hand crack to a groove pitch, just to the right of the offwidth). There are some other off-widths and chimneys on this route - apparently folks rave about them, though I remember cursing a lot Quote
whirlwind Posted July 9, 2004 Posted July 9, 2004 the one on angels crest was a beutiful, perfect spliter that went for 50 pr 60 feet all the same width bout 7" i was wishing i had atleast one piece to protect it with, cause i would of climbed it for sure Quote
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