maryk

Howdy all ~~ I haven't been on in quite a while...came looking for more info on what I posted below from the Omak Chronicle only to see the horrible news about Kurt. Very, very sad to hear about that accident. My thoughts are with him. So, while I'm on the topic of bad accidents, here's what I've been able to find on something that happened in my neck of the woods this weekend. Seattle woman rescued from Liberty Bell Mountain A 30-year-old Seattle woman survived a fall of about 500 feet and an all-night rescue on the slopes of Liberty Bell Mountain Saturday, June 24. Shannon Droham was climbing on the northwest side of the mountain off Washington Pass when she slipped and fell into a gorge, said Okanogan County sheriff Frank Rogers. The sheriff's office was notified of the accident at 10:53 p.m. Okanogan County Search and Rescue and Aero Methow Resche responded to the scene, described as being two miles past the Blue Lake Trailhead. "It was extremely steep but not a vertical drop into the gorge," said the sheriff. "Droham received injuries to the left of side of her body, possible fractures on her arm, shoulder, leg and knee." Droham was with other climbers when she fell. One stayed with her while the other one went for help, said Rogers. Two other hikers in the area also arrived to assist, bringing additional clothing and gear to keep Droham warm. Droham could not walk because of her injuries and was down in the gorge awaiting the rescue teams, Rogers aaid. There was about two to three feet of snow in the area where Droham was climbing. Eight high-angle rescuers from the search and rescue team and Aero Methow hiked to Droham's location that night. The morning of June 25 they were able to climb down to Droham and then had to rope her out of the gorge, Rogers said. Droham was then carried to a small area that had been cleared by the rescue team. A helicopter from Seattle-area Airlift Northwest was able to land on the small heli-spot. At around 11:30 a.m. Droham was placed into the helicopter and flown out to Harborview Medical Center, Seattle, Rogers said. "It was a long night for everyone involved," he said. "It was an incredible job by all of the climbers from Aero Methow and search and rescue."

Hey -- I would actually like a bit of a trip report - at least a conditions report. Did you go this past weekend? I'm supposed to go this weekend and my partners and I are getting varying info. Someone even said to bring ice screws and be prepared to short rope through a bunch of stuff! I think he must have been speaking of a different route. So, standard slog route, current conditions info would be great if you or anyone has got them. Will contact Ranger station too. Thanks much. Yeah, and great handstand. ~~ maryk

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Howdy folks. Looks like someone moved my post. So, I can't post for North Cascades partners in the North Cascades forum? Huh. OK. Anyway, I'm living out in the Methow now and don't have any regular partners to call on. I often have a day off during the week if you want to beat the weekend crowds. Areas outside of WA Pass are do-able too (Darrington, Bavaria, etc.). PM me if you are interested, or if you're local feel free to track me down. Thanks ~~ maryk

Interesting story in the latest Sierra magazine. Author Daniel Duane also interviewed Yvon Chouinard in the March/April 2004 issue (still available on website). Lessons in Granite

Chica and I dragged ourselves over to the Canmore "Rose and Crown" on Thursday night, not knowing whether we'd even recognize any of you. No one looked as spent and beat-up as us so we figured we'd missed y'all. Couldn't even finish a pint of beer that night! If I get any good pics from the 4-day trip, I'll post 'em in my gallery

Ditto on the many thanks to TG for the most excellent beerverage - that Triple Bock went down a little too easy and created self-induced laughter and entertainment! And ditto on a super fun, great-weather climbing weekend, and meeting a few more folks. Regardless of the near-drowning mishap with my poor pooch, which resulted in only getting in 3 short climbs Saturday afternoon, the drive was well worth the trip, as usual. Sky Ridge on Sunday was super cool, and flailing up New Testament at least provided my partners some comic entertainment (that plus my own personal version of "Running Man" in order to stay warm in the shade!). Here's to eeking out a few more good weekends

Well, the holiday weekend snuck up on me and my regular partner(s) are booked already. I'm mostly open to anything, though I've been doing a lot of looonnnng approaches and more mountain than rock lately so some actual rock climbing where we spend at least as much time climbing as hiking would be preferable. WA Pass, Leavenworth, Squamish, Darrington, Smith.... I could be convinced do some moderate stuff in Boston Basin area too, though maybe not the Eldorado approach! Can share easy/mod leads; don't really want to climb above 10a. Don't have much gear; have a rope. Most my friends wouldn't normally call me a loser...at least not much...at least not to my face....I think... ~~mk Reply or PM

Partner and I are heading over tonight but have a bad case of indecisiveness. Plus, neither of us know a ton about the routes out there and I forgot to bring my books to work with me -- so, I'm hoping y'all can throw out a few good options. We're hoping to avoid the more popular, crowded routes, but looking for something moderate. Nothing much over 10b would be nice, but something more relaxing would be...well....more relaxing. How's: * North Face of Burgundy – what does that go at? Cool? * South Butt of Cutthroat is 5.8, I think. Good route? * Have been hearing a bit about Spontaniety Arete-Le Petit Cheval, and downloaded the scribbled topo. Thoughts? * East Face of Chianti (aka Rebel Yell) looks quite popular but not sure what that’s rated either. Thanks for the beta!

It still shocks me that there seems to be climbers out there that are as opposed to wilderness as extreme right-wingers and industry zealots. I won't even lump loggers in here b/c many loggers (traditional ones) are strong advocates for sustainable use. Anywho, where do you think you are going to climb if not in wild, protected areas? The only thing *some* climbers should be really be worried about is their "right" to drill new holes in rocks - not something I advocate, but an issue for some I know (unless you are willing to do it the old fashion way). Access is never fully closed off. Unused, crappy, overgrown roads that nobody uses are sometimes "closed" - mostly meaning they aren't maintained. But if a current road is used it will be "cherry-stemmed" into the wilderness boundary, especially in today's politics, specifically in order to provide access...for hikers, climbers, hunters, fishermen (fisherpeople? ), snowmobileres, off-road bikers (don't get me started on that one!), horseback riders...you name it. The *only* times I've seen access trails closed was to prevent people, dogs and noise from disturbing threatened or endangered species, esp. if they are nesting/mating. Regardless, as someone pointed out, this bill is not likely to go anywhere this year because Nethercutt isn't pushing his buddy Pombo (House Resources Cmte Chair) to hold a cmte vote (a hearing was finally allowed), and Pombo is a wacko wingnut who's been trying to hold any and all wilderness bills hostage (except horribly damaging bills that have "wilderness" in the title to make them look good), even when entire delegations (dems and repubs) support the bill. The bill has passed the Senate a number of times - it's being held up in the House. If climbers care about having wild places to explore they should be writing Pombo and Nethercutt in support of the Wild Sky bill, not against it. Anything less is completely illogical. If anyone really wants more info on the bill, what's in it, where it is now, etc. PM me and I'll put you in touch with a very knowledgeable colleague. Or, search the Seattle P-I/Times website and you'll find loads of pieces that are at least mostly accurate and well done, in my opinion.

It was too steep and scary looking for me...but P.8 of Angel's Crest in Squamish is a *sweet* off-width that you better bring a big-bro for. (those intimidated by the o-w do the 5.9 finger/hand crack to a groove pitch, just to the right of the offwidth). There are some other off-widths and chimneys on this route - apparently folks rave about them, though I remember cursing a lot

...not exactly "gear," but it's a good car. PM me for more details if you're interested. Asking $7000. I've replaced the transmission and have kept it very well maintained (have done engine mounts, timing belt, brakes, hoses, you name it). Bought it 4 years ago and have all the records since then. 170K miles, but mostly on the hwy. Still runs great - super smooth; lots of power; handles great. Sun/moon roof; power everything; memory seats; front wheel-drive; automatic; rear spoiler; starting to show a little cosmetic wear on leather seats and paint job; tape deck eats tapes but can't think of anything else that's wrong with it. No accidents. Teal green exterior with tan interior. Great car for dogs and/or kids or just road trippin.' Older Roof rack optional. (I'll try to get some photos loaded)

Sounds like fun - I wish I was availalble (I had no idea I was even considering it ) I have plans both this coming and next weekend tho'. Have fun in the sun(?) kids.

Just some info, no opinions...b/c I know better than to get involved in this mess. The Sierra Club has formal national policies on loads of things. (Still, the Club has over 750,000 members and they are all individuals just like you with inidividual opinions). When the Club has a national policy agreed to by the Board of Directors, all Club entities (state chapters, etc) must abide by it whether they agree or not. The Club's only formal policy on climbing is within the context of legislated wilderness. Feel free to read it at http://www.sierraclub.org/policy/conservation/wilderness.asp (scroll down for climbing stuff).

Folks ~~ If anyone is wondering -- apparently the problem is a nerve thing. Edema of the ulnar nerve the radiologist said after reviewing the MRI. I still think overused, tight, tense muscles are also a part or at least contributing to some of the pain as well, and much of what many of you have said still applies. Nerve edema (inflammed, fluid-filled from aggravation, pulling...), I'm told, is mostly corrected with rest. I'm supposed to keep my arm in a sling, ice it for brief periods of time, not use it for at least another week or two (it's already been over 3), and take a round of "methylprednisolone," a mild steriod used to relax and reduce pain in nerves. The sling is the hardest thing to stick to! Things like cross-tendon massage will probably only make it worse, so it's a good thing I did have it looked it b/c I thought the problem was all muscular based. The doc said normally the ulnar nerve is the size of a piece of spaghetti and mine is now the size of a pencil. ?? Anyway, just wanted to close the loop. Thx for the advice and replies ~~mk

Yep - I saw your earlier post and agreed with everything there. I haven't been climbing on it - and it only hurts mildly when I'm not using it, but it definitely gets bothered pretty easily with nearly any activity. Skied the other day and that bothered it! Anyway, thanks y'all... ~~ mk

I think I answered my own questions - read through a bunch more old posts (I did look before I posted, but I guess not long enough!). It looks like I do have a pretty common injury....and that I'll be putting my winter SG membership on hold Unless anyone else has any specific comment or question, sorry for the redundant post.

..if that is such a thing. Not exactly "tennis elbow" I'm told, but something is going on with my arm and it's not going away and it's really starting to bug the crap out of it b/c it's making me lay-low. Pain is mostly with lateral pushing (left arm pushing right), but not necessary down. Area of acute pain is base of triceps near elbow AND just above the inside (medial) part of elbow. Once the arm starts hurting bad (onset with gym climbing), my whole arm (upper and forearm) ache with pain and weakness. I've been laying off of it, taking "Bextra", icing it, masaging the tendons, and I've even done a little acupuncture. I had a MRI yesterday (not necessary I know, but Doc loves them), and it looks like nothing is showing up in the film. It's been at least 3 weeks and none of this seems to be doing much help. Is what I've got the basic arm pain a lot of climbers get, and if so what do I do about it? Many thanks! ~~mk

Roadtriping with dog to backpack in Cali - maybe a stopover in Smith on the way down or back up, and maybe a quick stop in the Yo Valley depending on time, weather, partners....

The West Ridge -- rope-free until the few pitches below the summit. There was a fierce windstorm blowing from the north (kept the smoke from the Ingalls Creek fire away) all day Thursday. There's no way in hell anyone could have tackled the North Ridge that day due to the crazy gusts of wind. The N Ridge looked fun tho' - peeked over the ridge a few times only to be blown down to hands and feet.

These are from Thur/Fri (Extremely fun, but longer than I anticipated!). All I did this weekend was lay around and recover. http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=2150&papass=&sort=1&thecat=500 http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=2149&papass=&sort=1&thecat=500

Sun and mountain call See, smell, touch, taste me Never-ending search for peace

I had a real sweet climb on Silent Running Saturday, but the only photos that were taken were of another pair over on Total Soul, then a few pics of me doing my first lead (very easy "Under the Bored Walk", so no "chestbeating" from me!) -- but none of them are developed yet. Nice to see y'all's photos tho'!

Yeah, the larches, that's why I want to go too, plus I haven't climbed up in there yet either. Well crap, but thanks for the info Eric. Maybe I'll just have to sneak in....

This is true? Thinking about trying to get out there before the month is up, and this bit of information would help in the planning. Thx ~~ maryk