[TR] Mt. Garfield- Infinite Bliss 5/15/2004

[cracked]

Infinite

[richard_noggin]

First they spray about the FA, LW putting in too many bolts

Now there's spray he did not put enough bolts in

You guys crack me up , just can't keep you geeks happy.

Complain to Alpinewanker about not enough bolts

If you would have ask around you could have found out this was a committing route , or better yet, just STOP spray'n shit about routes and route setters , than this board might be getting the beta.

Want a topo, sent your request to dickhead@yomama'shouse DICK

[Off_White]

Is that address correct? I tried it and it bounced.

[John Frieh]

Since when do people believe everything Rock and Ice prints? Wasn't it R&I that promoted Dan's speed times on Rainer and Hood?

 

"But... but... but... rock and ice said I only needed 10 draws..."

 

And quit bagging on the FA party! Their names are not found in the by line on the article. The bottom line is you got tried and you failed. Not a big deal unless you don't learn anything from this experience. If you haven't failed before then you probably haven't been climbing that long.

 

The saying goes:

 

"If you're not cold, you brought too many clothes

If you're not hungry, you brought too much food

And if you succeed, it was probably too easy anyways."

[Szyjakowski]

And if you succeed, it was probably too easy anyways."

money.

[mattp]

Adventurewagon-

 

You make some valid points here, but the overall tone and some of the specifics of what you say are inflammatory and, I think, irresponsible. I think you hit the nail on the head when you wrote that maybe you should have waited until you calmed down before posting to cc.com.

 

To begin with, I would agree that Infinite Bliss is a dangerous climb. I can think of no 3,000 foot wall in the State of Washington that isn't. If anybody reads a ten-line blurb in Rock and Ice and is fooled into thinking they can climb a 3,000 foot wall in the Washington Cascades and it is going to be like running up 23 sport pitches at ground level, they are seriously mistaken and it is THEIR judgment I would question much more than that of the route setters. I'm not meaning to imply that you lack experience or judgment but seriously: how many climbs of that size on a Cascade peak have you done where there weren't routefinding issues, choss, rappel complications and any number of other nightmares en route?

 

Should they have installed a trail of bolts on that low angled terrain so that you could find your way without a topo? Maybe, but wouldn't you then be complaining that there are way too many bolts on easy terrain (or if not you, wouldn't somebody else)?

 

Do they owe it to you or to anybody else to come forth on cc.com and publish a topo so you can find your way without a trail of bolts? No. Nearly every time somebody posts something about a new "sport climb" on this website they get nothing but insult and ridicule -- and questions about their manhood and their motivations. Your posts are little different in this regard. Further, if the route setters were to post a topo, the route would only be MORE dangerous as it would surely become an overcrowded nightmare.

 

Should you or anybody else take it upon themselves to go up there and "fix" it? Absolutely not. Don't even joke about taking a can of spraypaint and a bolt drill up there to "make it right."

 

Should the guys who set the route go "fix it" according to your specifications or anybody else's? Lets wait and see. The route is not a death trap for anyone with the basic good sense to judge for themselves whether or not they are comfortable and the time is right to proceed beyond the point where they may have to place their own anchors on rappel, and you know nothing of the issues involved because you haven't talked to the guys involved.

 

I've addressed these somewhat rhetorical comments at you, but I should perhaps be directing them at everyone.

[Szyjakowski]

like someone said at a bar "i would reccomend any long route in the state other than this one..."

[bigwalling]

Most people can’t climb A2

 

even drunken midgets can climb A2!!!!!!

 

Not sure how a midget would fair on a pitch I would have to topstep on! Maybe some cheatstick time or super long hammer.

[layton]

Mattp, once again thank you for honing my skimming abilities!

 

p.s. I can't wait to get on this thing in winter! looks sweet.

[mattp]

Meanwhile, I've checked some of your comments with the route setters, and here are a few specifics:

 

1. Infinite Bliss is in some ways two separate climbs. Pitches 1-14 offer mostly fairly well protected climbing and relatively little in the way of route-finding problems. The first bolt may be a little hard to spot, and there are a few places along the way where you may scratch your head, but the real problems start at pitch 15. Further, a descent from above pitch 14 is much more difficult. Consider it a good day's climbing and a "success" to reach the top of pitch 14.

 

2. If you want to continue, take note of the comments higher in this thread. The route jogs rightward a little more than a half ropelength and then resumes upward climbing. It is MORE than a ropelength from the chains at the top of pitch 14 to the next chains. The top nine pitches of the route are more serious than the lower pitches: the first three of them are entirely unprotected except with the use of tiny stoppers and cams behind loose flakes and blocks, and the last five contain the technical crux of the route. On a descent of this upper portion, be prepared to leave some gear behind or belay your way down, late in the day, possibly in bad weather or when you are exhausted or cold or sunburned or ....

 

3. Rocks will be rolling if there is anybody at all above you on the climb. Even your partner is a serious hazard to your health on this route. Wear a helmet and consider another climb if there is anybody else on it when you get there. Really.

 

4. The descent off the back is probably not a good option, despite apparent rappel anchors that would indicate a possible route that way. The last time somebody went down there, they described it as an absolute nightmare. It is much safer to retreat way you came.

 

5. To answer the concerns about getting lost on Pitch 15, there is a proposal to laminate a small plastic tag and hang it on the anchor, with written instructions noting how the route jogs rightward. Perhaps this will eliminate some of the confusion.

 

FOLKS, THIS IS NOT A SPORT CLIMB. IT IS NOT LIKE CLIMBING 23 PITCHES AT EXIT 38 IN ONE DAY. BE PREPARED FOR DANGEROUS ROCK, HIGH MOUNTAIN EXPOSURE AND WEATHER HAZARDS, ROUTEFINDING DIFFICULTY, AND JUST PLAIN SERIOUS CLIMBING. EVEN IF YOU CLIMB 5.12 AND SCOFF AT THE 5.10b RATING.

[mattp]

Better, Mike?

[slaphappy]

Well stated, Matt!

[Szyjakowski]

#5 is a bad idea...thats what sites like this and guidebooks are for. we don't need maps posted on the route...

climbing is about using your brain and going upwards with your own power...

[layton]

haha.

I'm just giving you a hard time Matt!

Thanks for clarifying it though!

[fleblebleb]

The bottom line is you got tried and you failed.

 

I call bullshit on this one... Wagen and buddy finished the route, rapped ~20 pitches in the rain and were still cracking jokes when we got to the car.

[richard_noggin]

Adventurewagon-

 

You make some valid points here, but the overall tone and some of the specifics of what you say are inflammatory and, I think, irresponsible. I think you hit the nail on the head when you wrote that maybe you should have waited until you calmed down before posting to cc.com.

 

To begin with, I would agree that Infinite Bliss is a dangerous climb. I can think of no 3,000 foot wall in the State of Washington that isn't. If anybody reads a ten-line blurb in Rock and Ice and is fooled into thinking they can climb a 3,000 foot wall in the Washington Cascades and it is going to be like running up 23 sport pitches at ground level, they are seriously mistaken and it is THEIR judgment I would question much more than that of the route setters. I'm not meaning to imply that you lack experience or judgment but seriously: how many climbs of that size on a Cascade peak have you done where there weren't routefinding issues, choss, rappel complications and any number of other nightmares en route?

 

Should they have installed a trail of bolts on that low angled terrain so that you could find your way without a topo? Maybe, but wouldn't you then be complaining that there are way too many bolts on easy terrain (or if not you, wouldn't somebody else)?

 

Do they owe it to you or to anybody else to come forth on cc.com and publish a topo so you can find your way without a trail of bolts? No. Nearly every time somebody posts something about a new "sport climb" on this website they get nothing but insult and ridicule -- and questions about their manhood and their motivations. Your posts are little different in this regard. Further, if the route setters were to post a topo, the route would only be MORE dangerous as it would surely become an overcrowded nightmare.

 

Should you or anybody else take it upon themselves to go up there and "fix" it? Absolutely not. Don't even joke about taking a can of spraypaint and a bolt drill up there to "make it right."

 

Should the guys who set the route go "fix it" according to your specifications or anybody else's? Lets wait and see. The route is not a death trap for anyone with the basic good sense to judge for themselves whether or not they are comfortable and the time is right to proceed beyond the point where they may have to place their own anchors on rappel, and you know nothing of the issues involved because you haven't talked to the guys involved.

 

I've addressed these somewhat rhetorical comments at you, but I should perhaps be directing them at everyone.

 

I never read a post that loooong or hardly ever agree with a cyber cop .

Rightious post Matt

[Adventurewagen]

Im glad everyone is in disagreement on this one. I knew I would stir up some shit with my comments. Good, because I wanted to.

 

Good job Colt45. I thought it was so funny when we got to pitch 12, one bolt. That was the pitch that made me think there was no way they wouldn't have a bolt or anchor on the other pitches higher up. Why bother placing one bolt on super easy good quality rock then nothing on dirty chossy rock. I have a source that just emailed me saying that their IS ego involved with the FA's. Maybe they should chime in. As for me my job is done. Ill post a topo as soon as I get it scanned and finished. Hopefully a few more people thinking they want to get on the "Infinite clip-up: multi-pitch sport-routing for every-man, in Washington State". will think about it and know that it isn't just that. Its a good route, especially tame for alpine but not trivial which is expected. So don't spray on me for pointing out something that nobody else was willing to do.

[Trundle]

I have a source that just emailed me saying that their IS ego involved with the FA's.

 

Well obviously that's the proof we needed. Dan - style.

 

Get over it. I would suggest that you are wrong and it is ultimately ridiculous that you are ascribing bad motives to people you don't even know, just because you don't like how they set a route.

[John Frieh]

I have a source that just emailed me saying that their IS ego involved with the FA's.

 

Well obviously that's the proof we needed. Dan - style.

 

[CascadeClimber]

As Beckey said, "Garfield is a hazardous enigma."

 

I, for one, am glad that this route seems to be in that character.

 

-L

[Dru]

I have a source that just emailed me saying that their IS ego involved with the FA's.

 

Well obviously that's the proof we needed. Dan - style.

 

 

So what is the current Speed record for Infinite Bliss?

[dbb]

even drunken midgets can climb A2!!!!!!

-----------------

Not sure how a midget would fair on a pitch I would have to topstep on! Maybe some cheatstick time or super long hammer.

 

My guess is that most midgets don't have a super long hammer.

[Alex]

A post supporting Leland.

 

You, and only you, are responsible for your actions and choices in the mountains.

[chucK]

Adventurewagen,

 

Letting the general public know that you think it is a dangerous route is great. That's what this board is for.

 

What I don't get is your need to keep repeating what you guess were negative motives of the routesetters. What do you gain by continually making that point?

[thrutch]

Post deleted by mattp