luvshaker Posted May 11, 2004 Share Posted May 11, 2004 I was wondering if anyone else out there has ever thought about what the "last great Oregon climbing objective" might be on our little "hills", and if there even is one. I read a discussion a while back on the W. face of the Matterhorn in the EC's and someone threw out that title. Are there any elusive routes still our there? How about a Broken Top full crater rim traverse????? Ideas.....? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted May 11, 2004 Share Posted May 11, 2004 leuthold couloir via pogostick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sobo Posted May 11, 2004 Share Posted May 11, 2004 Well, the discussion of the West Face of Matterhorn in the EC indicated that a line or two had been done, but they were not "true" diretissmas to the summit. So one could still argue that the West Face Direct of the 'Horn (it's "Nose") is still a contender. I imagine also that something along the Grand Canyon of the Snake River would contend as well. Isn't there something like 6,000 vert feet of relief around there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted May 11, 2004 Share Posted May 11, 2004 does dfa prefer coke to pepsi? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted May 11, 2004 Share Posted May 11, 2004 That rim traverse on BT would be impressive though. It puts yocum ridge to shame in midwinter conditions (I can already hear the yocum ridge convention attendees rustling with unease). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sobo Posted May 11, 2004 Share Posted May 11, 2004 ...I read a discussion a while back on the W. face of the Matterhorn in the EC's and someone threw out that title... Was this the discussion you read? (discussion of WF of Matterhorn occurs late in thread) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurthicks Posted May 11, 2004 Share Posted May 11, 2004 i thought the NF of Thielson in winter would qualify, but it's been done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted May 11, 2004 Share Posted May 11, 2004 I don't think the Turkey Monster has been freed yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted May 11, 2004 Share Posted May 11, 2004 How about a direct ascent of the Black Spider? Or did I just "out" Wayne? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted May 11, 2004 Share Posted May 11, 2004 Turkey has been freed a few times. luvshaker: are you referring to rock or alpine or both? If rock, talk to Jim Anglin (I can get you contact); he knows all the rock. If alpine, I will quote my friend Brock: "It hasn't been done yet because its bullshit..." Don't waste your time here... go to the Ruth Gorge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gapertimmy Posted May 11, 2004 Share Posted May 11, 2004 is it just me or does a b-top rim job seem a bit contrived? the neat thing about many routes around here is they are so chossy they change from year to year, thus each time a seldom-done route is climbed again, it is technically a FA. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CraigA Posted May 12, 2004 Share Posted May 12, 2004 If it ever froze hard enough then climbing St Helens from the "inside" of the crater would be a hoot, a loooooonnnnngggg approach for sure, but hey 2,500 feet of near vertical climbing!!!!!!! Craig Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skyclimb Posted May 12, 2004 Share Posted May 12, 2004 illegal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luvshaker Posted May 12, 2004 Author Share Posted May 12, 2004 The north face of the St Helens crater.....YEA!! These are the kind of ideas I was searching for! Noles, totally agree with you "if it ain't been done yet, it probably ain't worth it", but a climber can dream can't he? I was throwing the idea out there mostly to see if any other alpine/rock folks had any ideas my little brain hadn't thought of. I always hear about the black spider..... What's the history on that beautiful piece of stone? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted May 12, 2004 Share Posted May 12, 2004 Turkey has been freed a few times. I believe all the ascentionists have used points of aid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaper_Jeffy Posted May 12, 2004 Share Posted May 12, 2004 The north face of the St Helens crater.....YEA!! These are the kind of ideas I was searching for! It's not in Oregon. BTW, why is it illegal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted May 12, 2004 Share Posted May 12, 2004 Good point! Illegal is more enticing - lessons from adolescence. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbw1966 Posted May 12, 2004 Share Posted May 12, 2004 Black Spider, like all the rock on Hood, is chossy as hell. I thought Wayne had done a free ascent of it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redneck_rocker Posted May 12, 2004 Share Posted May 12, 2004 The turkey monster has been freed, and done a long time ago. Here is an experpt from the underground menagerie guide. "Route 1 Dod Route (North Face) 5.11a F.A. Eugene Dod, Dave Jensen, Bill Pratt 1966 This route was originally done nearly all on aid, in the mid 1970’s Jeff Thomas was the first to free the bird with a variation on the third pitch, Tom Blust free climbed the original finish a short while later." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted May 12, 2004 Share Posted May 12, 2004 I heard the underground guide is a chapter in the new smith guide book. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted May 12, 2004 Share Posted May 12, 2004 The turkey monster has been freed, and done a long time ago. Here is an experpt from the underground menagerie guide. "Route 1 Dod Route (North Face) 5.11a F.A. Eugene Dod, Dave Jensen, Bill Pratt 1966 This route was originally done nearly all on aid, in the mid 1970’s Jeff Thomas was the first to free the bird with a variation on the third pitch, Tom Blust free climbed the original finish a short while later." fricken terrifying stuff no doubt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted May 12, 2004 Share Posted May 12, 2004 The turkey monster has been freed, and done a long time ago. Here is an experpt from the underground menagerie guide. "Route 1 Dod Route (North Face) 5.11a F.A. Eugene Dod, Dave Jensen, Bill Pratt 1966 This route was originally done nearly all on aid, in the mid 1970’s Jeff Thomas was the first to free the bird with a variation on the third pitch, Tom Blust free climbed the original finish a short while later." I stand corrected. Thanks for the info. How about the pillar out Prineville? That one looks scary, and I think the only route is an aid route. Forget the name of that one, but I scoped a free line on the North Face some years back. Waaaaay hard! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted May 13, 2004 Share Posted May 13, 2004 Perusing my Oregon Gazeteer: Steins Pillar! The shadowed face was the hard climb...: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancegranite Posted May 13, 2004 Share Posted May 13, 2004 booyah! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redneck_rocker Posted May 13, 2004 Share Posted May 13, 2004 The word on the street is that the Menagerie guide will be included in the new S.W. Oregon climbing guide. Locals have done a really good job at keeping this place on the down low. Most oregon climber have never heard of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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