redneck_rocker

ATTN: I am performing a community service to all cc'ers by destroying any and all suspect cch cams..I would be especially concerneed in any of you own the offset styles and should ship them to me immediatly...pm me for the appropriate address to mail them to...

All non locking biners, even wiregates can flutter and come unclipped. I took a huge fall earlier this summer on mescalito and a biner on the cam below the one that caught me cam off. it was an oval wiregate bd. thank god that #0 metolius held me . anyhow use a locker if you are concerned but I think it is pretty rare for this to happen.

I saw this punker kid beggin for money in eugene. He had a sign that read "Spit on me $1.00" effin wierdos

I am planning on going to Yose aroudn the 1st.....duration uknnow as well....Any flexibility on departure...i was planning on hitchhiking there or driving my jeep but I really do not want to drive there alone

Has anyone done liberty crack yet this year??? or around this time of year in the past...I am jsut wanting to know what to expect on the free sections...I am not too worried about the aid pitches..

I will buy the crampons....do you still have them???

I was wondering what the conditions (besides wet) of liberty crack at this time of year. I was considering an early season ascent but was wanting some feedback regarding conditions/feasibility of the route. any info would be greatly appreciated.

Appartently a 60 yr old climber fell into a crevasse, unroped. A resuce is under way. the link below has more info. http://www.kgw.com/news-local/stories/kgw_051804_news_hood_rescue.1d3d0a633.html

"It's pretty rare to need, or to have the energy to carry, more than one set of cams up a route" ???????????????? I dont know wtf you are climbing at but on most routes I climb I find it very useful to have a double set of cams, unless you are wanting to run it out a lot. Also if you are having to build anchors the climb will be more gear intensive.

The word on the street is that the Menagerie guide will be included in the new S.W. Oregon climbing guide. Locals have done a really good job at keeping this place on the down low. Most oregon climber have never heard of it.

I am interested. are there any other eugene ccr's out there?

Right on. Now I can go out to the crag, tie in to the gearloops on my super safe metolius harness and then take whippers on my new fangled rangefinder cams, as long as I am in the "green zone" I should be fine right???

The turkey monster has been freed, and done a long time ago. Here is an experpt from the underground menagerie guide. "Route 1 Dod Route (North Face) 5.11a F.A. Eugene Dod, Dave Jensen, Bill Pratt 1966 This route was originally done nearly all on aid, in the mid 1970’s Jeff Thomas was the first to free the bird with a variation on the third pitch, Tom Blust free climbed the original finish a short while later."

I am looking for a partner to climb with in the valley. I am just looking to climb a lot and have fun. I can climb .9+ to .10- but am willing to climb just about anything. send a reply or pm if interested

I lost my precious orange patagonia capiliene on the Teanaway River Rd. I was parked at the last snow drift on the way to the Ingalls Pass T.H. this has sentimental value to me and any finder will be rewarded.

I was up there this weekend and the road is blocked with snow about 2.5 miles from Ingalls pass trail. We parked just before Camp Wahoo.

Climb: Mt Stuart-South Face Coulior Date of Climb: 5/1/2004 Trip Report: My roomate and I decided late friday night to make an attempt on Stuart, Saturday morning we drove from Eugene up to Washington. We made it as far up the Teanaway river road by 5 p.m. Saturday. After a brief nap and some dinner we were off at 7:00 p.m. Snow blocked the road and we had to park about 2.5 miles from the trailhead to Ingalls Pass. We considered trying the N Ridge but instead decided to try one of the bands of Coulior's on the S Face. Which one?? I have no idea but we got good visual beta on the approach and could see that it topped out. We decended from Ingalls pass and then started up a wide coulior on the face. The moon was really bright and tavel was easy up the first part of the climb. At about 3:30 a.m we were about 500-1000 vertical feet from the summit and then cloud started rolling in. They were very thick and quickly closed in the top of the peak. We went from perfect visibility to poor in a few minutes time. Now we can no longer see the summit point and have no idea if the maze of tiny couliors at the top are leading us to the summit or a dead end. the top of the route included some 4th and 5th class rock scrambling around large holes the streams of water were creating underneath the snow. After burning about an hour of running from one side of the gully we traverse one cuolior to the east and finally see a set of tracks going up. We still have very poor visibility and decide to follow the tracks, assuming the previous party could actually see where they were going. We topped out after another 500 vertical feet after scrambling on ice covered rock. Based on a bearing we took from the top the route we ascended we just about due south from the summint block. We still have horrible visiblity and trusted the tracks leading off the top were leading to the cascadian coulior. We made it to the coulior and glissaded the entire thing. Whoo hoo was that fun. In about 20 minutes time we were all the way to the bottom and sitting in the sun. After a quick break we ascended up to stuart pass and back down to the Teanaway. We were back at the car by 12:30 p.m. and proceeded to drive all the way back to Eugene. It was a hard push but definately worth it. We had crampons and rock gear we never used. We each had an ice tool we used extensively on the steeps and ice covered rock at the top. It was assuring having the rock gear due to not knowing if the coulior we were ascending was a dead end.

Ha ha, the first time I went to the vally I though I had an arrhythmia when I got the first glimpse coming out of the tunnels. My buddy nearly caused a car accident when he slammed on the brakes and pulled off the road to look at everything.

Trezlar is stellar and worth doing. climb cosmos .10a bolts for the first pitch and then trezlar .10a gear for the second. Peking is also another good climb

I'll buy it. I am moving to Asia this fall and need a hand drill. Send me a pm with contact info