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Gaper_Jeffy

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Everything posted by Gaper_Jeffy

  1. Climb: Mt Hood-SNOWDOME SNOWDOME SNOWDOME SNOWDOME Date of SKI: 6/19/2005 Trip Report: Pics from yesterday: Ann spooning my tracks in the 2nd Langille Bowl: No one wishing to follow the pattern: With on short carry past the waterfall, we could ski about 5 minutes from the Tline trail. Probably will not go in another week though: Oh yeah, the USFS left me this love note: Finished day with this: Any questions? Gear Notes: DYNAFITS! Approach Notes: Watch out for Sasquatches
  2. Snowdome Skiing?

    Will - Are you referring to Snowdome itself or the crossing of the Eliot glacier via the first bench to get to the base of Snowdome? A lot more people now cross the Eliot to get to the base of the Snowdome then did three years ago. The crossing of the Eliot is pretty crevassed and I think warrants a rope if you are going to walk across it early in the season. Snowdome itself has crevasses, but a lot less than crossing the Eliot and they are in spots where you would expect them.
  3. EIGER CLIMBED IN UNDER 4 HOURS!!!

    Did he bring a dog with him for verification?
  4. best of cc.com Mt. Hood events speculation

    Here's my speculation. The mistake this party made was this: Instead of staying at home and sitting in front of their computers pontificating on Internet forums like babbling idiots about things they have absolutely no clue about, they actually went climbing. That was their mistake. They should have just stayed at home, sprayed on Internet forums, and criticized others with the benefit of 20-20 hindsight.
  5. 3 Lost on Mount Hood

    OMG - this is one of the most unintentionally hilarious posts I have ever read. Thank you ShiniGami for the humor in light of such a bad situation. You're like Borat for CascadeClimbers.
  6. 3 Lost on Mount Hood

    Here's an interesting Mt Hood story from 1976 that I had never heard before. It involves a party of 3 who spent 13 days in a snow cave on Mt Hood and were almost written off as deceased: Oregonian: Survivor of '76: If we made it, they can too
  7. 3 Lost on Mount Hood

    Anyone check the telemtrys this morning? It went absolutely nuts on the mtn last night. MHM's telemetry shows 2.3"s of liquid precip since 8pm. That equates to 23+"s of snow up high. The temps were very warm, so the precip fell as rain in the parking lots, but up high it would be wet heavy snow. I'm sure the avy danger has to be even more insane then it has been the past few days. http://www.nwac.us/~nwac/products/OSOMHM http://www.nwac.us/~nwac/products/OSOTML My friends tell me when I post excessively about storms (which I always do in a skiing context), I jinix them. I'm hoping I can do so now.
  8. 3 Lost on Mount Hood

    Sorry for the thread drift, but I really want to respond to this as I just spent a bunch of time Googling PLBs and MLUs. No an MLU is not the same as a PLB. The PLB communicates with a networks of satellites and will work anywhere in the world. An MLU sends out a terrestrial signal that can be picked up by an MLU receiver. Googling MLUs, I actually found a post here from PMR Iain describing the differences: The rescue Iain is referring to in January 2003 I believe was a party of Mazamas who not only had a MLU, but had multiple cell phones and GPSes and were on the southside of the mtn where there is cell reception. If the Mazamas were on the northside, they probably wouldn't have been able to use their cell phones to request a rescue, so it would have taken longer before anyone went looking for their MLU signal: http://www.pmru.org/pressroom/headlines/hoodstranded011203.html Again, sorry for the thread drift. It was the Oregonian who brought the MLU subject up.
  9. SS, Can you clarify what you mean by them being a "farce." I am assuming you are speaking of the mountain locator units?? They have been used in the past on the mountain and signals have been picked up from the summit at Timberline Lodge. Here's one story that shows they didn't work when needed from 1997: http://www.highbeam.com/doc/1G1-64622192.html I have no experience with MLUs; I've never rented one, and I can't think of one person I know who does rent them. However, everyone I know has a cell phone.
  10. 3 Lost on Mount Hood

    OregonLive has a story up about how Mountain Locator Units would have helped locate the climbers. What ran thru my mind when I read that was this: if the powers that be would provide decent cell phone coverage to the north and east sides of Mt Hood--like 99% of the US has--that would have provided equivalent, if not more, assistance to rescuers than an MLU. The cell phone is one of the most common electronic devices, so why can't the most climbed glaciated peak in the US get decent cell phone coverage on all sides and on all networks and bands? Someone should go ask the Tmobile spokesman that. Anyhoo, sorry for the slight rant.
  11. 3 Lost on Mount Hood

    Why is it that in 2006 the north and east sides of Mt Hood do not have better cell phone coverage?
  12. [TR] Mt Hood- W,East Face 5/13/2006

    This thread needs some porn. This is from the Wyeast on 5/14, a day after your trip. Porn: Nap time: Skied out all the way to HRM. Fun day.
  13. [TR] Eldorado- Skiing 2/11/2006

    Great photos again. But jesus christ, don't you guys ever have to work? PS: I once tried to make that logo my avatar on TTips but Mitch removed it.
  14. What do you tell your boss on a powder day?

    I'm having menstrual pain.
  15. What people do for fun in Enumclaw...

    SEATTLE - A man has pleaded guilty to trespassing in connection with a fatal horse-sex case. James Michael Tait, 54, of Enumclaw, was accused of entering a barn without the owner's permission. Tait admitted to officers that he entered a neighboring barn last July with friend Kenneth Pinyan to have sex with a horse, charging papers said. Tait was videotaping the episode when Pinyan suffered internal injuries that led to his death. Tait pleaded guilty Tuesday and was given a one-year suspended sentence, a $300 fine, and ordered to perform eight hours of community service and have no contact with the neighbors. The prosecutor's office said no animal cruelty charges were filed because there was no evidence of injury to the horses. http://news.yahoo.com/s/ap/20051201/ap_on_fe_st/wa_bestiality
  16. I found this hilarious post in the "Women seeking Men" section of Portland's Craigslist: http://portland.craigslist.org/w4m/109639705.html
  17. What would you do for a season pass? (quasi NSFW)

    Hehe. You're welcome to send that.
  18. What would you do for a season pass? (quasi NSFW)

    Tell her you're a Telemarker with a large collection of kneepads.
  19. What would you do for a season pass? (quasi NSFW)

    So who has emailed her?
  20. (this is a cross-post, you may see this on multiple sites) I was looking into the Avalanche courses offered by Mountain Savvy. The courses are offered by Glenn Kesller a former Mt. Hood Climbing ranger. Part of the courses are done on Mt. Hood (under the proper permits). Mountain Savvy's Website is: http://mountainsavvy.com/ While researching Mountain Savvy I discovered several pages from the Oregon Mountaineering Association (OMA) which assert, inter alia, while Kessler was a Climbing Ranger to eliminate competition for his future course he "unfairly" prosecuted the OMA for offering classes on USFS property without a permit After reading OMA's material, particularly the details here http://www.i-world.net/oma/news/usfs-1.html, I feel Kessler was simply doing his job. OMA should be griping at USFS regulations not Kessler. OMA's statements in no way deter me from enrolling in a Mountain Savvy course. Does anyone have any input on these events or Mountain Savvy's courses? -- From http://www.i-world.net/oma/guides/mountainsavvy.html (note if you're interested in this story you may want to visit the webpage as it links to several other pages): Oregon Guides and Guide Services Mountain Savvy and Glenn Kessler A tale of how government employees ignore ethics regulations, pursue conflicting interests, and abuse their government positions In the winter of 2000-2001 a new guiding service began offering avalanche courses on Mt Hood. It is called Mountain Savvy and is run by Glenn Kessler. We strongly recommend avoiding courses through or with Mountain Savvy, Glen Kessler, and Doug Ironside. This is based on ethical and conflict-of-interest concerns, we are not claiming to have evaluated their technical or teaching skills in any way. The conflict of interest and ethical concerns are as follows ... Glen paved the way for this during his reign as a Forest Service ranger on Mt Hood, during which he eliminated competition and made friends with permit holders, the bureaucrats who issue permits, and fellow Forest Service employees who hold the permits currently unavailable to anyone in the private sector. In at least one case where entirely unfounded actions were initiated against a volunteer leader Doug Ironside played a key role. This is not an empty accusation but a statement of fact - Dougs role came to light from documents obtained from the US Attorneys office. [Details] We do not know the full extent of the political impacts of Mr. Kesslers actions, but the projects which were undermined during the year prior to the founding of Mountain Savvy while Glen was with the USFS include: The Oregon Mountaineering Association classes held a few times a year The implementation (at the request of the Mazamas) of spring climbing season avalanche information At least one other avalanche and winter safety program which happened to disappear that year These were all small initiatives in the non-profit sector with the goal of improving mountain safety through education and awareness. They no longer exist, are limited in scope, or failed to get off the ground because Glen Kessler used his government position to effectively shut them down on Mt Hood. It is now clear that this was a matter of paving the way for his own business. We have attempted to look up Doug and Glenn in the membership list for the American Alpine Club and the Alpine Club of Canada. Neither appear to be members of either organization. There is no indication that either is a member of the American Mountain Guides Association, nor that Mountain Savvy is accredited by the AMGA. So neither individual appears to have an affiliation with any of the major climbing or guiding organizations in the US or Canada. For a forest service employee to obtain a permit from the agency to run a private business is clearly a conflict of interest and runs counter to government ethics guidelines. Especially when such permits are not based on objective criteria and are routinely denied to individuals outside the government. In our opinion the actions of these two individuals, Doug Ironside and Glen Kessler, indicate a level of insecurity which leaves them feeling very threatened by almost anyone. Even clubs and associations. Instead of pursuing excellence themselves they are eliminating competition through the abuse of a government position. We urge you to consider this insecurity and lack of self-confidence as well as the negative impacts of their actions over the past few years. Is this the kind of operation you really want to do business with or learn safety critical skills from? It should also be noted that the curriculum standards are being poorly represented. Mr. Kessler is using Canadian Avalanche Association materials, which are based on a 2 day course or 16 hours. He is claiming to offer an American Level 1 certificate at the same time, even though the American guidelines are based on a course of three days or 24+ hours. Mountain Savvy is charging $185 for their course - note that it is possible to take a 24 hour American Level 1 course for $150 (including accommodations) from other providers which are more socially responsible. (Note that Doug Ironside operates through several Parks and Recreation programs, so ask who the real operator is when considering these programs as well. As of the 2002 season mountain savvy courses are being offered through Portland Parks and Recreation.)
  21. Mountain Savvy Avalanche Courses/permit dispute

    Man - why do people have to bump two year old threads? I'd like to edit my initial post to be blank (can you do this for my timmy?). I don't want to be stiring stuff. Reasonable people can sometimes get into really silly arguments.
  22. Ski width to skin width

    Of course 99% of telemarkers don't/can't use ski crampon as their bindings are incompatible w/o a lot of fiddling. Ski crampons are useful if you want to keep your skins on as long as possible (who wouldn't want to do this?). They're very common in Europe. If you were on a tour like the Haute route and you didn't have ski crampons, the Euros would look at you like you have two heads. Even with perfect skinning technique there are many things you can't skin up w/o crampons that you could.
  23. for rumr

    Anyone see the forecast for the weekend? It's gonna... ...snow. PS: While I'm skiing Sunday someone is going to be physically relocating my server so these photos will not be visible on Sunday.
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