Last Great Problem?

[luvshaker]

I was wondering if anyone else out there has ever thought about what the "last great Oregon climbing objective" might be on our little "hills", and if there even is one.

I read a discussion a while back on the W. face of the Matterhorn in the EC's and someone threw out that title.

Are there any elusive routes still our there?

 

How about a Broken Top full crater rim traverse?????

Ideas.....?

[iain]

leuthold couloir via pogostick

[sobo]

Well, the discussion of the West Face of Matterhorn in the EC indicated that a line or two had been done, but they were not "true" diretissmas to the summit. So one could still argue that the West Face Direct of the 'Horn (it's "Nose") is still a contender.

 

I imagine also that something along the Grand Canyon of the Snake River would contend as well. Isn't there something like 6,000 vert feet of relief around there?

[ivan]

does dfa prefer coke to pepsi?

[iain]

That rim traverse on BT would be impressive though. It puts yocum ridge to shame in midwinter conditions (I can already hear the yocum ridge convention attendees rustling with unease).

[sobo]

...I read a discussion a while back on the W. face of the Matterhorn in the EC's and someone threw out that title...

 

Was this the discussion you read?

 

(discussion of WF of Matterhorn occurs late in thread)

[kurthicks]

i thought the NF of Thielson in winter would qualify, but it's been done.

[EWolfe]

I don't think the Turkey Monster has been freed yet.

[Alex]

How about a direct ascent of the Black Spider? Or did I just "out" Wayne?

[John Frieh]

Turkey has been freed a few times.

 

luvshaker: are you referring to rock or alpine or both?

 

If rock, talk to Jim Anglin (I can get you contact); he knows all the rock.

 

If alpine, I will quote my friend Brock: "It hasn't been done yet because its bullshit..."

 

Don't waste your time here... go to the Ruth Gorge.

[gapertimmy]

is it just me or does a b-top rim job seem a bit contrived? the neat thing about many routes around here is they are so chossy they change from year to year, thus each time a seldom-done route is climbed again, it is technically a FA.

[CraigA]

If it ever froze hard enough then climbing St Helens from the "inside" of the crater would be a hoot, a loooooonnnnngggg approach for sure, but hey 2,500 feet of near vertical climbing!!!!!!!

 

Craig

[skyclimb]

illegal

[luvshaker]

The north face of the St Helens crater.....YEA!! These are the kind of ideas I was searching for!

Noles, totally agree with you "if it ain't been done yet, it probably ain't worth it", but a climber can dream can't he? I was throwing the idea out there mostly to see if any other alpine/rock folks had any ideas my little brain hadn't thought of.

I always hear about the black spider..... What's the history on that beautiful piece of stone?

[EWolfe]

Turkey has been freed a few times.

 

I believe all the ascentionists have used points of aid.

[Gaper_Jeffy]

The north face of the St Helens crater.....YEA!! These are the kind of ideas I was searching for!

 

It's not in Oregon.

 

BTW, why is it illegal?

[EWolfe]

Good point!

 

Illegal is more enticing - lessons from adolescence.

[rbw1966]

Black Spider, like all the rock on Hood, is chossy as hell. I thought Wayne had done a free ascent of it?

[redneck_rocker]

The turkey monster has been freed, and done a long time ago. Here is an experpt from the underground menagerie guide.

"Route 1 Dod Route (North Face) 5.11a F.A. Eugene Dod, Dave Jensen, Bill Pratt 1966

This route was originally done nearly all on aid, in the mid 1970’s Jeff Thomas was the first to free the bird with a variation on the third pitch, Tom Blust free climbed the original finish a short while later."

[John Frieh]

I heard the underground guide is a chapter in the new smith guide book.

[iain]

The turkey monster has been freed, and done a long time ago. Here is an experpt from the underground menagerie guide.

"Route 1 Dod Route (North Face) 5.11a F.A. Eugene Dod, Dave Jensen, Bill Pratt 1966

This route was originally done nearly all on aid, in the mid 1970’s Jeff Thomas was the first to free the bird with a variation on the third pitch, Tom Blust free climbed the original finish a short while later."

 

fricken terrifying stuff no doubt

[EWolfe]

The turkey monster has been freed, and done a long time ago. Here is an experpt from the underground menagerie guide.

"Route 1 Dod Route (North Face) 5.11a F.A. Eugene Dod, Dave Jensen, Bill Pratt 1966

This route was originally done nearly all on aid, in the mid 1970’s Jeff Thomas was the first to free the bird with a variation on the third pitch, Tom Blust free climbed the original finish a short while later."

 

I stand corrected. Thanks for the info.

 

How about the pillar out Prineville?

 

That one looks scary, and I think the only route is an aid route.

 

Forget the name of that one, but I scoped a free line on the North Face some years back. Waaaaay hard!

[EWolfe]

Perusing my Oregon Gazeteer:

 

Steins Pillar!

 

The shadowed face was the hard climb...:

[lancegranite]

booyah!

[redneck_rocker]

The word on the street is that the Menagerie guide will be included in the new S.W. Oregon climbing guide. Locals have done a really good job at keeping this place on the down low. Most oregon climber have never heard of it.