minx Posted April 30, 2004 Share Posted April 30, 2004 what are your favorite smith multipitch routes? preferably .10b or easier. Monkey Face is not on the list. Yeah spiderman is if it isn't swamped. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted April 30, 2004 Share Posted April 30, 2004 Zebra/Zion Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skyclimb Posted April 30, 2004 Share Posted April 30, 2004 zebra zion 10a wherever I may Roam .9 white satin .9 two pitch anclodstye(spelling) .9 spiderman .7 sky ridge(hand traverse!) .8R Cinammon Slab .6 First Kiss .8(super soft, more like .6) Can't wait for the weekend Heres to you smiffy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted April 30, 2004 Share Posted April 30, 2004 Tale of two shitties Christian Brothers Traverse  Good suggestions, Skyclimb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted April 30, 2004 Share Posted April 30, 2004 trezlar. you can avoid the crap first pitch by climbing the new 10ish super-long sporto route to the left on the face, then rap over to the start of the stellar second pitch and build an anchor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redneck_rocker Posted April 30, 2004 Share Posted April 30, 2004 Trezlar is stellar and worth doing. climb cosmos .10a bolts for the first pitch and then trezlar .10a gear for the second. Peking is also another good climb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted April 30, 2004 Share Posted April 30, 2004 whereever I may roam has become such a trade route it is best to avoid on the weekends, esp. since the standard rap line uses some of the anchors on the route itself. team climbs up to anchors, team raps down to same anchors, hilarity ensues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted April 30, 2004 Share Posted April 30, 2004 marsupials traverse. 7p. 5.8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gripped Posted April 30, 2004 Share Posted April 30, 2004 sky ridge(hand traverse!) .8R Sky Ridge is not quite as run out as it used to be. Someone rebolted the first pitch (Thanks!) Â You do have to leave the first belay and scramble/climb some loose chossy stuff without pro (easy climbing), but now, when you get to that first bolt, it's solid. (The first couple bolts used to be really scary.) Â Â The Second Pitch is stellar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cman Posted April 30, 2004 Share Posted April 30, 2004 whereever I may roam has become such a trade route it is best to avoid on the weekends, esp. since the standard rap line uses some of the anchors on the route itself. team climbs up to anchors, team raps down to same anchors, hilarity ensues. Â We did this route on saturday and were the only ones on the route, a second party was just starting up when we hit the ground. most people have not bought the little red supplement guide book so they do not know about it. Do it now before word really gets out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sketchfest Posted April 30, 2004 Share Posted April 30, 2004 I was out there about a month ago checking out various climbs on the West side and folks where taking numbers to get on "roam" the line was so long. not to mention the 4 groups that were already on route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b-rock Posted April 30, 2004 Share Posted April 30, 2004 You should put Monkey Face (w/ West Face variation) on the list! (unless you've already done it and that's why you don't want it on the list...) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkrueger Posted April 30, 2004 Share Posted April 30, 2004 Topo for Wherever I May Roam (and surrounding area) attached. 340513-SRG_WestSide.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
assmonkey Posted April 30, 2004 Share Posted April 30, 2004 Round river direct is a cool 2p. It's in the red book. On a hot crowded day, hike up and do that route in the late morning in the shade, then walk off around to the other side and find the ampitheatre with the awesome juggy overhanging sport routes (10s & 11). Or you can do the cave route which I haven't done, that threads a needle through a cool looking natural feature. That one gets sun all day though. Â Beta about a runout bolted 5.8: http://www.smithrock.com/bbs/messages/902.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shapp Posted April 30, 2004 Share Posted April 30, 2004 first kiss is not runout. It has just as many bolts as any other smith route I have done, in fact on some pitches I think I skipped a few cause I didn't have enough runners. Shapp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted April 30, 2004 Share Posted April 30, 2004 Everything everybody has mentiond, plus "Free Lunch". Its some way wild position with just about every kind of climbing (face, thin crack, offwidth) going right up Parking Lot (Picnic Lunch) Wall. Wear a helmet, it doesn't get climbed much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rev_D._Wayne_Love Posted April 30, 2004 Share Posted April 30, 2004 Zebra Zion for sure!!!!!!!! What about The Oregon Death Tour ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goatboy Posted May 3, 2004 Share Posted May 3, 2004 Unexpected delight: 2nd pitch of Crack of Infinity -- glorious locking handjams on steep terrain (5.8-ish) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barkernews Posted May 19, 2004 Share Posted May 19, 2004 gotta vote for wherever i may roam. But there's a loose bolt and hangar at the third belay... round river's ok too... but the descent is a bitch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skyclimb Posted May 19, 2004 Share Posted May 19, 2004 On white Satin, there is a 10b direct for the second pitch. It is a stellar crimp fest that takes a direct line from the ledge to the base of the third pitch. Highly Recommended. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texplorer Posted May 19, 2004 Share Posted May 19, 2004 Zebra Zion Peking Moscow Tale of two shitties Super Slab Spiderman Sundown then continue up a .10a sport pitch to the right of minos morgul Brogan Spire Anything on testament slab and then continue up crazy zigzag pitches, for extra spice traverse to crack (pro in pockets) and climb up to the priest summit .9 to .10a ish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
climberchica Posted May 24, 2004 Share Posted May 24, 2004 My husband and I climbed this route a week ago on a Sunday. No wait. There was a group at the top of the route. The standard rappel actually avoids the climbing route. The guidebook recommends rapping off the other side (for the first rap). There was one couple behind us, but no one else on the route. Excellent route- I highly recommend it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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