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Posted

what are your favorite smith multipitch routes? preferably .10b or easier. Monkey Face is not on the list. Yeah spiderman is if it isn't swamped.

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Posted

zebra zion 10a

wherever I may Roam .9

white satin .9

two pitch anclodstye(spelling) .9

spiderman .7

sky ridge(hand traverse!) .8R

Cinammon Slab .6

First Kiss .8(super soft, more like .6)

hahaha.gif Can't wait for the weekend fruit.gif

Heres to you smiffy bigdrink.gif

Posted

trezlar. you can avoid the crap first pitch by climbing the new 10ish super-long sporto route to the left on the face, then rap over to the start of the stellar second pitch and build an anchor.

Posted

whereever I may roam has become such a trade route it is best to avoid on the weekends, esp. since the standard rap line uses some of the anchors on the route itself. team climbs up to anchors, team raps down to same anchors, hilarity ensues.

Posted

sky ridge(hand traverse!) .8R

Sky Ridge is not quite as run out as it used to be. Someone rebolted the first pitch (Thanks!)

 

You do have to leave the first belay and scramble/climb some loose chossy stuff without pro (easy climbing), but now, when you get to that first bolt, it's solid. (The first couple bolts used to be really scary.)

 

 

The Second Pitch is stellar thumbs_up.gif

Posted
whereever I may roam has become such a trade route it is best to avoid on the weekends, esp. since the standard rap line uses some of the anchors on the route itself. team climbs up to anchors, team raps down to same anchors, hilarity ensues.

 

We did this route on saturday and were the only ones on the route, a second party was just starting up when we hit the ground. most people have not bought the little red supplement guide book so they do not know about it. Do it now before word really gets out.

Posted

I was out there about a month ago checking out various climbs on the West side and folks where taking numbers to get on "roam" the line was so long. not to mention the 4 groups that were already on route.

Posted

Round river direct is a cool 2p. It's in the red book. On a hot crowded day, hike up and do that route in the late morning in the shade, then walk off around to the other side and find the ampitheatre with the awesome juggy overhanging sport routes (10s & 11). Or you can do the cave route which I haven't done, that threads a needle through a cool looking natural feature. That one gets sun all day though.

 

Beta about a runout bolted 5.8:

http://www.smithrock.com/bbs/messages/902.html

Posted

first kiss is not runout. It has just as many bolts as any other smith route I have done, in fact on some pitches I think I skipped a few cause I didn't have enough runners.

Shapp

Posted

Everything everybody has mentiond, plus "Free Lunch". Its some way wild position with just about every kind of climbing (face, thin crack, offwidth) going right up Parking Lot (Picnic Lunch) Wall. Wear a helmet, it doesn't get climbed much.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

On white Satin, there is a 10b direct for the second pitch. It is a stellar crimp fest that takes a direct line from the ledge to the base of the third pitch.

Highly mushsmile.gif Recommended.

wave.gif

Posted

Zebra Zion

Peking

Moscow

Tale of two shitties

Super Slab

Spiderman

Sundown then continue up a .10a sport pitch to the right of minos morgul

Brogan Spire

Anything on testament slab and then continue up crazy zigzag pitches, for extra spice traverse to crack (pro in pockets) and climb up to the priest summit .9 to .10a ish.

Posted

My husband and I climbed this route a week ago on a Sunday. No wait. There was a group at the top of the route. The standard rappel actually avoids the climbing route. The guidebook recommends rapping off the other side (for the first rap). There was one couple behind us, but no one else on the route. Excellent route- I highly recommend it.

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