thelawgoddess Posted March 6, 2004 Posted March 6, 2004 i'm looking to buy some screamers, mostly for ice climbing but maybe also to use for aid. just curious what kinds of screamers any ice climbers out there prefer and why? i've climbed with a bunch of different kinds; just not sure about the nuances. also, if any of you use ice screams do you use two biners all the time or do you just slip it over the screw all the time or change it up depending. seems no 2nd biner would save some weight ... Quote
Dru Posted March 6, 2004 Posted March 6, 2004 see "binners" thread in the gear critic tie offs of any sort suck even slipped over the screw. clip the hanger! and use on sight cause those are cheap at MEC or Valhalla Pure for that matter Quote
thelawgoddess Posted March 6, 2004 Author Posted March 6, 2004 all i see is the "locking binners" thread. the info contained there is not exactly what i am asking for ... thanks for your h.o. on tie-offs, though. Quote
murraysovereign Posted March 6, 2004 Posted March 6, 2004 and use on sight cause those are cheap at... Valhalla Pure 'cept Peder has stopped making them , and Valhalla Pure is sold out, so another supplier is needed. Yates is an obvious choice, but does anyone have any other favourites they'd recommend? Quote
thelawgoddess Posted March 6, 2004 Author Posted March 6, 2004 i will be buying yates; just trying to decide which ones! Quote
John Frieh Posted March 6, 2004 Posted March 6, 2004 Alpine or roadside antics? Generally for long alpine routes I take at least 3 of the lightest yates one; I think they call it shorty. One per anchor (at the equalization point) and my first piece gets a screamer if I am using my twin/double ropes. I might take 1-2 more if the route has a pitch that merits them. For road side antics, I have a few of the zipper screamers. Nice, but to heavy for alpine. I don't know if they make them anymore, but charlet moser made screamers in the past. Worth a look. If you plan on some aid, the scream aiders aren't necessary (your shorties will work fine), but the clip in point is nice and you don't have to worry about activating a piece by just stepping on it/jump testing it (as it is separate from the screamer). Quote
John Frieh Posted March 6, 2004 Posted March 6, 2004 No problem. If it's any of my business: what type of law are you studying/practicing? Quote
thelawgoddess Posted March 6, 2004 Author Posted March 6, 2004 yeah; none of your business! check your pm's ... Quote
CascadeClimber Posted March 6, 2004 Posted March 6, 2004 Stay away from the ice screamers- if you rack them on the back of your harness they are long enough to catch your crampon points on when you step up. -L Quote
thelawgoddess Posted March 6, 2004 Author Posted March 6, 2004 Stay away from the ice screamers- if you rack them on the back of your harness they are long enough to catch your crampon points on when you step up. thanks - no use losing style points. Quote
mike_m Posted March 7, 2004 Posted March 7, 2004 I have the same problem with the Zipper Screamer as well, so I just use the Shorty's. Usually carry 4, one for each belay, one for the first piece, one just in case. Quote
dylan_taylor Posted March 7, 2004 Posted March 7, 2004 Charlet moser / Petzl still makes load limiting draws. They are called nitros and come in three convenient lengths. Quote
tomtom Posted March 7, 2004 Posted March 7, 2004 Ya. I have the regular screamers, but want to replace with the shorties so that they don't get caught in my crampons as often. I carry three, one for for each belay and a third for the first piece. The shorties work better on the belay as well. Shorties are the same as the regular, just folded differently. Quote
thelawgoddess Posted March 7, 2004 Author Posted March 7, 2004 sweet, guys - you've really helped! Quote
Jedi Posted March 7, 2004 Posted March 7, 2004 The Nitros are smaller and lighter. They also only absorb 75% of what the Screamers do. Mammut use to make a Spectra absorber but it only absorbed 60% of what the screamer does. Yates tried making them out of Spectra (lighter and aborbs less water) but since Spectra is smaller, you can not get as much stitching into the webbing which makes them less effective. Quote
thelawgoddess Posted March 8, 2004 Author Posted March 8, 2004 can anybody give me actual lengths for the yates zipper, shorty, and regular screamers? also, when you use the shorty, do you ever find them TOO short? Quote
CascadeClimber Posted March 8, 2004 Posted March 8, 2004 Ice Screamer: 13.75" Reg. Screamer: 9.0" (not including biners) Don't have any shorties. I like the length of the regular ones: They help even out the rope as I wander back and forth looking for the easiest line. -L Quote
glassgowkiss Posted March 8, 2004 Posted March 8, 2004 so there is a bit of news for you guys. maybe you noticed bd doesn't make screamers? there is a reason for it. as the matter of fact creamers cause more shock loading onto a piece. most of the force is absorbed by a stratch of the rope during regular fall. skinnier the better, so the forces with thin, double or twin ropes are not so great at all. the problem with the screamers is they rip at the same time the rope is stretching. there were more failures during their tests with then without screamers. i tend to trust their research, since they proved placing screws (in good ice) downward is not the correct way to go (10 degrees up is). metolius had simolar test results and both companies do not manufacture them. Quote
snoboy Posted March 9, 2004 Posted March 9, 2004 are you saying i'm gonna die? Well, yes, eventually. Glassgowkiss has already stated this opinion of screamers in this thread , but he hasn't backed it up yet, despite a lot of evidence to the contrary. Right now I'd say the jury is out on this one until we see some more hard evidence one way or the other. Quote
thelawgoddess Posted March 9, 2004 Author Posted March 9, 2004 i like G, think he's pretty f'ing hardcore, and respect his opinions ... but i ordered some screamers anyway. and i will definitely be using them. thank you to the contributors on this thread for your help! Quote
kurthicks Posted March 9, 2004 Posted March 9, 2004 maybe you noticed bd doesn't make screamers? or do they? go check out Will Gadd's book on page 34. he's got what appears to be 3 of them labeled BD on his harness... as for screamers, i'll use regular ones on all the screws i place if i've got 'em. Quote
Paul_detrick Posted March 9, 2004 Posted March 9, 2004 I have to agree, I use them on all screws. Took a wipper once on one worked just fine. Quote
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