Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
thelawgoddess

screamers for ice climbing

Recommended Posts

i'm looking to buy some screamers, mostly for ice climbing but maybe also to use for aid. just curious what kinds of screamers any ice climbers out there prefer and why? i've climbed with a bunch of different kinds; just not sure about the nuances.

 

also, if any of you use ice screams do you use two biners all the time or do you just slip it over the screw all the time or change it up depending. seems no 2nd biner would save some weight ...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

see "binners" thread in the gear critic rolleyes.gif

 

tie offs of any sort suck even slipped over the screw. clip the hanger!

 

and use on sight cause those are cheap at MEC thumbs_up.gif or Valhalla Pure for that matter

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

all i see is the "locking binners" thread. the info contained there is not exactly what i am asking for ...

 

thanks for your h.o. on tie-offs, though.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

and use on sight cause those are cheap at... Valhalla Pure

 

'cept Peder has stopped making them frown.gif, and Valhalla Pure is sold out, so another supplier is needed. Yates is an obvious choice, but does anyone have any other favourites they'd recommend?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Alpine or roadside antics? Generally for long alpine routes I take at least 3 of the lightest yates one; I think they call it shorty. One per anchor (at the equalization point) and my first piece gets a screamer if I am using my twin/double ropes. I might take 1-2 more if the route has a pitch that merits them. For road side antics, I have a few of the zipper screamers. Nice, but to heavy for alpine. I don't know if they make them anymore, but charlet moser made screamers in the past. Worth a look. If you plan on some aid, the scream aiders aren't necessary (your shorties will work fine), but the clip in point is nice and you don't have to worry about activating a piece by just stepping on it/jump testing it (as it is separate from the screamer).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Stay away from the ice screamers- if you rack them on the back of your harness they are long enough to catch your crampon points on when you step up.

 

-L

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Stay away from the ice screamers- if you rack them on the back of your harness they are long enough to catch your crampon points on when you step up.

hellno3d.gif thanks - no use losing style points. thumbs_up.gifyellaf.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have the same problem with the Zipper Screamer as well, so I just use the Shorty's. Usually carry 4, one for each belay, one for the first piece, one just in case.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ya. I have the regular screamers, but want to replace with the shorties so that they don't get caught in my crampons as often. I carry three, one for for each belay and a third for the first piece. The shorties work better on the belay as well. Shorties are the same as the regular, just folded differently.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The Nitros are smaller and lighter. They also only absorb 75% of what the Screamers do. Mammut use to make a Spectra absorber but it only absorbed 60% of what the screamer does.

Yates tried making them out of Spectra (lighter and aborbs less water) but since Spectra is smaller, you can not get as much stitching into the webbing which makes them less effective.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

can anybody give me actual lengths for the yates zipper, shorty, and regular screamers?

 

also, when you use the shorty, do you ever find them TOO short?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ice Screamer: 13.75"

Reg. Screamer: 9.0"

(not including biners)

 

Don't have any shorties. I like the length of the regular ones: They help even out the rope as I wander back and forth looking for the easiest line.

 

-L

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

so there is a bit of news for you guys. maybe you noticed bd doesn't make screamers? there is a reason for it. as the matter of fact creamers cause more shock loading onto a piece. most of the force is absorbed by a stratch of the rope during regular fall. skinnier the better, so the forces with thin, double or twin ropes are not so great at all. the problem with the screamers is they rip at the same time the rope is stretching. there were more failures during their tests with then without screamers. i tend to trust their research, since they proved placing screws (in good ice) downward is not the correct way to go (10 degrees up is). metolius had simolar test results and both companies do not manufacture them.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
are you saying i'm gonna die? cry.gif

 

Well, yes, eventually.

 

Glassgowkiss has already stated this opinion of screamers in this thread , but he hasn't backed it up yet, despite a lot of evidence to the contrary.

 

Right now I'd say the jury is out on this one until we see some more hard evidence one way or the other.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i like G, think he's pretty f'ing hardcore, and respect his opinions ... but i ordered some screamers anyway. and i will definitely be using them.

 

thank you to the contributors on this thread for your help! thumbs_up.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
maybe you noticed bd doesn't make screamers?

or do they? go check out Will Gadd's book on page 34. he's got what appears to be 3 of them labeled BD on his harness...

 

as for screamers, i'll use regular ones on all the screws i place if i've got 'em.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×