iain Posted October 15, 2003 Posted October 15, 2003 erik huck doll w/ swivel-arm pabst grip* *rasta bivy accessory kit sold separately Quote
Bug Posted October 15, 2003 Posted October 15, 2003 Well this is alot of heuy over something we all wish we could do. Now don't get me wrong. I went to highschool with Alex Lowe and she ain't him. But, I also put myself thru college and now I have to put my step son and my two kids thru college. It isn't easy. This girl is smiling folks. She has found her marketing niche and is making bucks. A friend of mine has a son who was a very hot bike rider. He had all the moves down long before it was blasting on TV. He refused to "sell out" to the big companies. "Riding is about the sport". OK. So now he is all washed up and broke. He does not inspire anyone unless there is a bong sucking "World Championship" I haven't heard of. This girl is marketing something the public is willing to buy. Go girl. After Enron, invading Iraq for oil, blah, blah blah, This girl is refreshing. I give her You nay sayers need to look outside your sport. Nobody cares about us. For the most part, climbing is a selfish endeavor. How many of us have not scrificed jobs, relationships, etc for our climbing. Who is served by it other than ol #1? OK other climbers gain from new routes but that isn't why I put up new routes. I did it because it was damn fun. Most of them were never reported anywhere. The public will never understand why she isn't the "world champion". Only we will ever know the difference and we already do. If one of my daughters has the opportunity to cash in on something, i will encourage her to do so. I think I'll even buy them each a Torry Doll. Quote
Norman_Clyde Posted October 15, 2003 Posted October 15, 2003 The Tori doll, that's silly. The Veikka doll, on the other hand... THAT'S cool. veikka doll Quote
iain Posted October 15, 2003 Posted October 15, 2003 Norman_Clyde said: The Tori doll, that's silly. The Veikka doll, on the other hand... THAT'S cool. veikka doll maybe you can pull a cord on the back and get "thanks for sharing a sleeping bag with me ed" Quote
ChrisT Posted October 15, 2003 Posted October 15, 2003 now that is cool...and he can play with my pee wee herman doll and my blossom doll... Quote
scott_harpell Posted October 15, 2003 Posted October 15, 2003 JayB said: jefffski said: where does it say that she is a champion? i've had a close look at her website and there is no reference to that statement. it does say that she is a gifted athlete. she also trains quite hard at the sports she does. i could find no evidence of her puffing up her abilities. btw all the proceeds from her book go to charity and she tithes annually. that's more that i can say. what i detect here are blasts of jealousy. she seems like a nice kid. a kid who has some talents, goes to high school and has goals for herself. i respect and admire that and wish that more kids were like her. we'd all be better off. Word. Far be it for me to talk shit about a 15 year old cranking 13s. I wasn't even climbing until I was almost eight years older than the was. She may burn out, she may turn into a well rounded alpinist - who knows. Pretty kick ass accomplishments for a 15 year old IMO. people were saying the same shit about rodden and now she is climbing harder trad than anyone i have met from this site. Quote
glassgowkiss Posted October 15, 2003 Posted October 15, 2003 adventuregal said: Iain's comment about Ed Viesturs just got me thinking... It always really impresses me when someone takes a sport that they enjoy and makes a living doing it. That says to me that they are really passionate about it. Personally, I have found that if I want to continue to enjoy a sport, I need to separate my work and play.(That topic could almost use its own thread... but I'm sure its been discussed before!) But as far as this little chica goes... she doesn't really even need to be making a living at 15. Actually, more like she's making a living for nike and oakley CEOs. I always feel bad for these kid superstars. Do you wonder if they ever just want to mix in with the crowd? I'm sure this was her choice, so more power to her. But I'll be suprised if we're still hearing about her in another 5 years... i am not impressed when they make of it more then it is. and in both cases like ed and torri it is . flashing one 13 is not that big of a deal. a 13 yo kid from czec republic is doing 8b's (don't remember his name, but you can check it out on 8a.nu). same with ed- how many people summited 14x 8000 peaks? so what's the big deal about him? this is so sad that people actually buy into this marketing crap. if they weren't climbers would not be able to make living from whoring themselves out. because in reality thats all what it is- selling yourself for money. Quote
RuMR Posted October 15, 2003 Author Posted October 15, 2003 But bob....that is what everyone does in one fashion or another, whether its an NFL superstar, your dentist, or you... ie, you gotta work for the man with whatever skillz ya got... Quote
texplorer Posted October 15, 2003 Posted October 15, 2003 Sport Clipping Plywood may be a sport but it is not climbing. REAL climbing is about REAL rock and the outdoors and the experience of challenging yourself against NATURE. Tori is a gifted athlete and I hope she does well but until she solos the reticent, climbs K2 w/o oxygen, and also onsights .13d outside then I will not give her the all-round title of world's best climber. Quote
glassgowkiss Posted October 15, 2003 Posted October 15, 2003 yeah rudy, that's why bush is a president with 50% aproval rating. and as far as pro athletes you must produce or you'll be cut. hype and bullshit will get you only so far. look at people like rodman- where is he now? i have no problem with making living of climbing- in one or another form, but for crying out loud don't pretend something you are not Quote
glassgowkiss Posted October 15, 2003 Posted October 15, 2003 texplorer said: Sport Clipping Plywood may be a sport but it is not climbing. REAL climbing is about REAL rock and the outdoors and the experience of challenging yourself against NATURE. Tori is a gifted athlete and I hope she does well but until she solos the reticent, climbs K2 w/o oxygen, and also onsights .13d outside then I will not give her the all-round title of world's best climber. not true- it's climbing like everything else. climbing is a game. on the same token aid/wall climbing is in my book much less then pulling on plastic. the point is she never won World Cup comp (even one series) or World Championships. X-games are invitational bullshit. Invitations are purelly based on who knows whoom, not on actuall ranking. if you call yourself a champion you have to compete and win with real champions. Quote
Ursa_Eagle Posted October 15, 2003 Posted October 15, 2003 glassgowkiss said: same with ed- how many people summited 14x 8000 peaks? as of 2000, I think 4 or 5 (I think there may have been one or two since)... not exactly a large club there Quote
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted October 15, 2003 Posted October 15, 2003 Damn, you hyper-cynical elitist trad fucks make DFA want to puke up his nonfat vanilla yogurt and Kashi "7 In the Morning" cereal breakfast (and the coffee, too). It doesn't say that she's THE world-champion climber, or even that she's THE all-around champion -- it's a description, an attention-getting blurb at the top of the page. Looks like it got your fucking attention, didn't it? Anyone who's cracked open a climbing magazine knows that Tori Allen's a competition climber. In comps, you're either climbing routes, or you're bouldering, for the most part. If you do both, you're an all-around climber in the comp world (difficult concept, but try to stay with it). This kid has kicked ass at both, and not just at the X-Games, and taken other perfectly capable boulderers to school, emerging, on more than one occasion, as champion. Obviously she's not trying to claim championness as an alpinista, a wall rat, a mixed monkey, etc. The world is going to shit in a picnic basket, and you fools have got nothing better to do than tear an exuberant young athlete to little bits on the internet, over a semantic tidbit that Ken Starr would have glossed over and left alone. What a steaming lot of horse shit. Quote
iain Posted October 15, 2003 Posted October 15, 2003 couldn't have said it better myself...oh wait Quote
rbw1966 Posted October 15, 2003 Posted October 15, 2003 Muffy_The_Wanker_Sprayer said: ChrisT said: adventuregal said: Muffy_The_Wanker_Sprayer said: the possabiloity exsits that they are 'stage parents' most likely... more power to the whole family then. I'm sure they wouldn't even be in it if they didn't want to... I totaly disagree Chris There are laws about child labor for a reason. We bring our children into the world to love them, not so they will pony up and pay our bills. "We" do? There are plenty of examples of children being born to parents who don't care for them. Tragic really. Quote
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted October 15, 2003 Posted October 15, 2003 glassgowkiss said: X-games are invitational bullshit. Invitations are purelly based on who knows whoom, not on actuall ranking. if you call yourself a champion you have to compete and win with real champions. That's pretty damn petty, isn't it? Plenty of top-shelf climbing talent shows up at the X-Games, or at least they used to. All those little French girls that climb so freaky hard, Lisa Rands and the usual women's comp circuit climbers, Big Frank, Mr. Sharma, etc. Are these not "real champions"? And the same goes for ABS comps, at which she's done plenty well. The World Cup circuit is just as arbitrary as anything else. Yeah, you gotta compete to win, but you also have to compete in certain comps, while others don't count toward your ranking. It's all just as arbitrary as this entire ridiculous sport. Quote
Ursa_Eagle Posted October 15, 2003 Posted October 15, 2003 I just wish she'd say "all-around climbing competition climber" Then I wouldn't have a beef, because (judging by her resume), she's done that. However, leaving out that key word implies a LOT more than she is (or at least more than she has listed on her resume). As I've said, I respect someone who has accomplished that much, especially at age 15, however, I would appreciate it if she didn't try to make herself up to be something she's not. Quote
Dru Posted October 15, 2003 Posted October 15, 2003 i have more posts than the top posters on rockclimbing.com and ukclimbing.com does that make me the world champion sprayer Quote
RuMR Posted October 15, 2003 Author Posted October 15, 2003 Dr_Flash_Amazing said: Damn, you hyper-cynical elitist trad fucks make DFA want to puke up his nonfat vanilla yogurt and Kashi "7 In the Morning" cereal breakfast (and the coffee, too). It doesn't say that she's THE world-champion climber, or even that she's THE all-around champion -- it's a description, an attention-getting blurb at the top of the page. Looks like it got your fucking attention, didn't it? Anyone who's cracked open a climbing magazine knows that Tori Allen's a competition climber. In comps, you're either climbing routes, or you're bouldering, for the most part. If you do both, you're an all-around climber in the comp world (difficult concept, but try to stay with it). This kid has kicked ass at both, and not just at the X-Games, and taken other perfectly capable boulderers to school, emerging, on more than one occasion, as champion. Obviously she's not trying to claim championness as an alpinista, a wall rat, a mixed monkey, etc. The world is going to shit in a picnic basket, and you fools have got nothing better to do than tear an exuberant young athlete to little bits on the internet, over a semantic tidbit that Ken Starr would have glossed over and left alone. What a steaming lot of horse shit. On another note, she would be schooling most trad climbers in a matter of weeks on their home turf should she make the switch...and the reverse could not be said... Quote
Dru Posted October 15, 2003 Posted October 15, 2003 RuMR said: On another note, she would be schooling most trad climbers in a matter of weeks on their home turf should she make the switch...and the reverse could not be said... Do you mean the same way Katie Brown, when she took up trad climbing, said Red Rocks 5.8 (Dark Shadows) was "really hard and scary" ?? then again I think 5.13 sport is hard and the humiliation of dogging bolt to bolt in front of the posey Smith crowd is scary so maybe you are right, the reverse is also true! Quote
RuMR Posted October 15, 2003 Author Posted October 15, 2003 umm...i was thinking more along the lines of beth rodden... and, fwiw, Katie brown would school all of us in crax...you are quouting something out of context...I said "make the switch"...ie, spend some time learning how to properly place gear and she'd maul all of us...you are talking about the very first time KB went out and placed gear... Quote
glassgowkiss Posted October 15, 2003 Posted October 15, 2003 Dr_Flash_Amazing said: glassgowkiss said: X-games are invitational bullshit. Invitations are purelly based on who knows whoom, not on actuall ranking. if you call yourself a champion you have to compete and win with real champions. That's pretty damn petty, isn't it? Plenty of top-shelf climbing talent shows up at the X-Games, or at least they used to. All those little French girls that climb so freaky hard, Lisa Rands and the usual women's comp circuit climbers, Big Frank, Mr. Sharma, etc. Are these not "real champions"? And the same goes for ABS comps, at which she's done plenty well. The World Cup circuit is just as arbitrary as anything else. Yeah, you gotta compete to win, but you also have to compete in certain comps, while others don't count toward your ranking. It's all just as arbitrary as this entire ridiculous sport. dfa- is your head up your ass again? are the fumes gettin' you high? simple- if you want to call yourself a champion you have to compete in the largest format of the comps- simple and the end of story. she didn't win world cup, no world championship either, bouldering, difficulty or speed! if she does- then she earns the title. maybe she is US champion, but calling herself world is way too much from 8a.nu The possibly two best rock climbers in the world, Sandrine Levet and Ramonet, won the WC event in Prague. Sandrine is #2 in the ICC route ranking and #1 in the boulder ranking. Ramonet, 162 cm and 48 kilo, is #2 in the ICC route ranking and #1 at the 8a.nu ranking. Worldcup leader Chabot was #15. In the latest 12 events he has won 10 times and placed second twice! end of the story. as far as viestus goes- there is al least 12 people right now, who did it (14x8000) Quote
glassgowkiss Posted October 15, 2003 Posted October 15, 2003 RuMR said: umm...i was thinking more along the lines of beth rodden... and, fwiw, Katie brown would school all of us in crax...you are quouting something out of context...I said "make the switch"...ie, spend some time learning how to properly place gear and she'd maul all of us...you are talking about the very first time KB went out and placed gear... rudy, it's not always the case. there is plenty of people who can't make the switch. there is more to it then just physical capability. mental aspect is as important and a lot of people just don't have it. i don't say in her case she couldn't, but i don't think it's an automatic assumption. Quote
whirlwind Posted October 15, 2003 Posted October 15, 2003 i'm just jealous cause i want to get paid, but really though if i could get paid and go pro i put lunies on it that i could pull wit the best of em, climbing just on the weekends, with the occasional "long" 3-4 day trip makes it aful hard to improve fast, shit ussaly it takes about a day to find my lead head. and i'm sure this is pretty true for most of us. Quote
Dru Posted October 15, 2003 Posted October 15, 2003 can I quote a PM here? Hi Dru My name is Richard Head and I am the present of Huckdoll Inc. Following the success of our Ed Veisturs and Tori Allen dolls we are looking to come out with a bendable cyber climber. Are you interested in modelling for the character? Quote
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