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MORE CLIMBING TALK!!


chucK

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I lead the first two pitches of GNS at Index and practiced running it out above my gear. Then we went up to climb Timberjack. It kicked my butt. A little too physical after having the summer stomach flu last week...

 

Laid around in the boulders pretending we were commentators letting the viewers understand the scene on Thin Fingers. Funny shit!

 

Excellent day.

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What about me!? My wife and I scrambled up Mt. Persis and took some photo's of the index traverse route hopefully for future reference. On the way down, we passed some locals with a brand new tiny Poulan (like 12" bar) chainsaw and a splitting maul clearing the blow down on the trail. They were having a blast so I didn't tell them about the level II fire restrictions limiting chainsaw use to between the hours of 1am - 1pm. Well, and becasue there was a lot of blowdowns. Then went down and drank a beer at the waterfall and washed the dust off. Nice day to be in the mountains.

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fri- went to wapass. drank lots of beer and whiskey till 3am

sat- climbed minuteman with greg w....very hungover. the bottom has some interesting features but mostly mediocre rock. the very sweeeeeet hand crack up top was worth the poundin headache.. the rap into the gully was notso bad.... a few loose rocks to avoid.

 

sun- climbed sw buttress (face?) of kangaroo temple with greg w, alpinek,jdog,ken4ord,and alpinfox.

great climb with hand cracks, fist cracks, squeeze chimneys and lots of neat rubble and funk...and caves....cold and windy most of the day... killer views from the summit including a spectacular splitter on some steep face to the north.

bigdrink.gif

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ehmmic said:

Then we went up to climb Timberjack.

 

I climbed that route up to where you can either undercling the flake and go right or continue up the thin corner to the anchor directly. I only had one piece big enough for protecting the underclingy area and couldn't decide if I wanted to protect the second or myself so I backed down. But, I wondered if it goes direct or around that flake. It looks fairly stiff for 5.8 either way. fruit.gif

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chucK said:

Bronco said:

ehmmic said:

Then we went up to climb Timberjack.

 

I climbed that route [...] It looks fairly stiff for 5.8 either way. fruit.gif

 

It's 5.8+! Good one fer sure. That and Gorilla My Dreams, good Grand Wall training.

 

shhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh

 

quit tellin people about all the other good routes up there!!!!

 

EVERYONE THE ONLY GOOD ROUTES ARE AT THE LOWER WALL. PLEASE CONTINUE TO ENJOY THESE ROUTES AND DISREGARD THE FALSE INFORMATION LISTED ABOVE. THE REST OF INDEX SUCKS AND IS CHOSS. THO THERE ARE A FEW "OKAY" ROUTES ON THE UPPER WALL.

 

 

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chucK said:

Bronco said:

ehmmic said:

Then we went up to climb Timberjack.

 

I climbed that route [...] It looks fairly stiff for 5.8 either way. fruit.gif

 

It's 5.8+! Good one fer sure. That and Gorilla My Dreams, good Grand Wall training.

 

If you mean as in laybacks.....? I off-widthed the top. And I chickened-out of gorilla again because last fall I took two fully layed out, parallel to the ground whippers off of it. Then I off-widthed the top.

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Well, since you asked... On Saturday we climbed Ruth Mountain and Icy Peak (east of Shuksan). Neither mountain is very high, (~7,000 ft each) but both had small glaciers to cross. For such small glaciers there were several large crevasses. Much more so than expected. We were expecting an easy day, what we got was 17.5 hours car-to-car. Didn't look close enough at the map before hand to realize we were in for + 6,500 feet of elevation gain. Plus it is a long way from Ruth to Icy too. Incredible views of Shuksan, Nooksack Tower, Nooksack Cirque, etc. Soon after we got down to Hannagan Pass the thunder, lighting, and rain started. Hiking down the trail in the rain at night was pretty cool. Lots of strange smells and creatures abound. Good times.

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Thank you, thank you one and all. This thread completely kicks ass on all thirty seven of the Bitch-at-Beck threads combined! I can't believe how much climbing got talked about after just one longwinded obnoxious request.

 

Let's all do this again come Mon-Tuesday after this forthcoming unprecedented simultaneous occurence of weekend and good-weather window (whood a thunk it cantfocus.gif!?). If you wish to be specifically named in next week's "What-did-you-climb" query (sorry AlpineK frown.gif), then call your shot now! That's right, pre-chestbeating is being solicited.

 

Also for those tempted to dredge up past stories, no worries. A "What did you tick this year?" thread will be appearing sometime in late October. wave.gif

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i'm not sure if i'm happy about the timing of this unprecedented weather window as i'll only get one day of climbing this weekend. oh well some is better than none smile.gif

 

i'll refrain from any chestbeating...it hurts damnit smirk.gif

 

thumbs_up.gif for this thread. unfortunately all i climbed last w/e was my stair and a massive pile of laundry.

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was one of the fortunate many who enjoyed the 'WA Pass debauchery'--v. entertaining crew bigdrink.gif

 

no chestbeat intent here, just reveling in a weekend that stands out in an already incredible summer. These were all first-time climbs for me, each one exquisite; on top of that, enjoyed Erik's and fern's (et.al.) gustatory skillz and many beers and stories w/ shady characters each day over breakfast and dinner. that's right, PBR ain't just for breakfast anymore...

 

Fri: Lib Crack w/ shortbus -- stellar, thanks to specialed who cruised the aid sections. found a platypus snifter of whiskey(knob creek?) at the base, tasty summit libation

Sat: E. Face Lexington w/ a flying kiwi -- a fine route, although someone has bolted the chimney into submission (and it's a pretty secure chim at that)

Sun: NW Face SEWS w/ a flying kiwi -- chilly day. i think we did the riders on the storm variation for p. 3--there's a HUGE sketchy, teetering block after a long-ish traverse left. happy to provide info. if anybody considering it.

 

incredibly fun weekend. potshots welcome.

thanks for the opportunity to blab, chucK...by the way, good to run into you at Squamish a couple weekends ago (Borderline).

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