Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
Gaston_Lagaffe

Where to go for chimneys

Recommended Posts

Flee Fly Flue is a good 5.7 chimney on the middle wall at Index. Its been awhile, but I think I remember, about 20-30 feet of nice wide bombay chimney action with no pro. Then placing the big green camelot and a brushy finish to the anchors. The rock isn't worn smooth like the aries chimney.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
mark said:

Flee Fly Flue is a good 5.7 chimney on the middle wall at Index. Its been awhile, but I think I remember, about 20-30 feet of nice wide bombay chimney action with no pro. Then placing the big green camelot and a brushy finish to the anchors. The rock isn't worn smooth like the aries chimney.

 

As I remember Hips and Valleys also has a short chimney section and it is easy to set a TR on it.

 

Don't forget Roller Coaster Chimney, Black Widow or even Easter OH on Midnight.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Surprised I haven't heard about the desert chimneys

-Kor/Ingals on Castleton

-The Priest

-Lightening bolt cracks

-Sister superior

 

Almost all the desert towers have chimneys come to think of it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

good points tex, tho i guess if one was attempting to look locally for wide stuff, one would have to move south to be local for your gems!

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
texplorer said:

I forget some of you on here have jobs and such.

 

i know, a quite unfortunate delimma.

 

cry.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
DCramer said:

 

Don't forget Roller Coaster Chimney, Black Widow or even Easter OH on Midnight.

 

I guess Roller Coaster was technically my first 5.9 trad lead, though I only led the crux half of the pitch. It is a beautiful chimney, with a tricky exit move, and sure was a nice finish to the Flame.

 

I heart chimneys. cantfocus.gif Have a blast finding some good ones around here. Best of luck

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Rock and Roll Chimney at Royal Columns, Tieton, YDS 5.3, but seems way harder.

 

Nice 5.6 chimney on the 3rd pitch of Champagne, Snow Creek Wall, Leavenworth.

 

The last pitch of the West Ridge of Prusik, although it is very short.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
texplorer said:

Surprised I haven't heard about the desert chimneys

-Kor/Ingals on Castleton

-The Priest

-Lightening bolt cracks

-Sister superior

 

Almost all the desert towers have chimneys come to think of it.

 

One of the scariest pitches I ever led was the 3rd on Kor-Ingalls, I had never climbed a chimney pitch harder than about 5.5 before that and ended up liebacking about 30ft through the crux, sweating bullets, cursing, breathing so hard I thought I was gonna puke. Came very very close to taking a big ride on that one.

 

The Priest is just disgusting it looks so scary.

 

And I hear Erik knows something about the scary chimneys on Tricks in Zion.

 

I'm suprised Tex didn't put in votes for a road trip to Yos to train on Steck Salathe', Hollow Flake, Midterm, Texas Flake. Lost Arrow Chimney...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The North Face route (opposite side from Klenke's photo) has a great chimney! Go way deep inside then squirm out behind a huge chockstone right at the top. It's like emerging from a snaf.gif hole.

 

Bunch of good easy chimney's here , that are a lot closer though. Probably could go climb 'em this weekend.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I just did a route at Vantage called "Strokin' the Chicken" in the Kingpins. It starts out as a double crack and then turns into a narrow chimney that gets wider as you go up. The good thing about this is that you can practice a variety of stemming moves as you go up. There is even a chockstone you can sling on the way up. It protects well. Although it is rated at 5.6, it seemed harder than Seven Virgins and a Mule (5.7) which I we did the same day. I think the reason is fewer face holds on which to cheat.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
these chimneys are in the boulders below Carnival Crack in the Icicle Canyon. There is another fun gimme chimney in some random boulder up valley of Bridge Creek. Some of the most fun chimney bouldering I have ever done. Also I will add North North Arete on the Chief to my list of quality chimney involved climbing.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I can’t believe nobody has mentioned Damnation crack at Castle Rock. There is also a good chimney that starts of NW Corner and W Face on NEWS.

 

I heard a great comparison once that climbing chimneys are like having sex. You get in, wiggle around until everything feels right, then have at it.

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
TimL said:

I can’t believe nobody has mentioned Damnation crack at Castle Rock.

 

Yes they have. There is even a somewhat extended discussion about it. Please try to keep up wink.gif.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Joshua Tree has a bunch of chimneys. Many of them aren't actually parallel sided though. Some are like acute angled dihedrals etc. Intersection Rock has Bat Crack, Mike's Books, and The Flake, all of which have chimney sections.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

There is a great chimney at smith called Strung Out.... hahaha.gif

Its on the west side, and starts in a good sized cave...

Ask Layton about what gear you will need for the lead but I suspect a few #5's #4's and 3.5's

It is a good bombay to offwidth. bigdrink.gif

wave.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here's another s(l)ick one: Dr Sniff and the Tuna Boaters has a "chimney" thats pretty durn scary to lead!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The flaring,narrowing chimney to the right of the climber in Joseph's third picture was a good test for me. There is a bolt to protect the exit move that I had to clip blindly. Move up, reach around, and yell "am I hi enuf yet?". Repeat till answer is yes laugh.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You guys are talking about Red Rocks go do this: Time up 5.12a, on Brownstone Wall; Put up buy Uriostes in 1985

Here in Washingtion,South Early Winter Spire, The Dolphin Chimeny 5.10c

Frenchman Coulee:Sex With Vegtables, 5.10D,The top half.

Seven Virgins and a Mule, 5.7

Index, Lizard Route,5.8+

Tieton River,on Moon Rock, Internal Bliss 5.7

The List go on?

Rocks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×