Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
Gaston_Lagaffe

Where to go for chimneys

Recommended Posts

Ok, so I went to Index on Saturday and absolutely positively SUCKED at getting up (on tr mind you) the 5.8 flaring chimney by Great Northern Slab. However, since I will inevitably come across more chimneys in my climbs, I need to develop some skills. So my question is this: where should I go to practice? Plus, where can I get suggestions on how to climb them?

 

Thanks in advance,

Cheers bigdrink.gif

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

few and far between in these parts

lworth has a few good ones. only ones that come to mind this very second is hyperspace and madesens chimmeny.

 

there is no real specialized technique.

 

stemming, wedgeing, footwork, friction all play important parts. stay calm and try to investigate all your oppertunites and features.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

At index, there's a short chimney on the GM route and don't some consider Battered Sandwich an off widthy chimney? You should come back in February or March and climb that Lizzard chimney with green slime all over it, that's fun.. hellno3d.gif

 

There is no technique, just wrassle that sucker. I've found that crying does not really help very much...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah, Vantage's Seven Virgins is a good fairly long and vertical chimney. It is FAIRLY clean and an enjoyable climb....I think it goes at 5.7...it is not bolted.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

husky peak has a number of corners that can be climbed using chimney techniques (esp. stemming)

 

what about slow children?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

it seems to me one has to use lots of the same techniques, especially the beginning and last 30'. granted there is a finger crack on slow children, aries chimney has a hand crack, so what?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sloe Children may be climbed with a dropped knee or two...but not by me...and not with a knee bar like the Butt Lips Chimney.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

you must be fairly tall if you don't use opposition techniques at least for the last few moves in the corner.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

There is no technique, just wrassle that sucker.

 

There most certainly is technique to climbing off widths and chimneys. Arm bar, stemming, chicken wing....etc. However technique can vary wildly depending on your body part size. Also more than one technique may workcantfocus.gif

 

The Fault was one of the first chimneys I ever led. After that buttlips then I don't know.

 

Take a trip to Yosemite wink.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you trying to learn chimney technique, I would stay with granite for right now as the other areas (vantage, etc.) often let you use face holds inside the chimney.

 

Between buildings works great.

 

Next time you head up to Givler's dome in Leavenworth, head about 5 minutes to the right. About 30 feet left of Mastadon roof is a short widecrack that works you though all of the techniques and gets easier the higher you get. Plus it has pine needle/dirt landing so you could go over to it and clmb by yourself for an hour and really get the techniqe dialled.

 

For chimneys, relax and take your time. Rest every move if you can.

______________

And even though I told you to go to granite, at Vantage, there is a 5.10 bolted chimney called "satan" that is one of the best routes at the place.

Not like the entablature sport , trad crack, and column sport routes that all seem the same after a while (same schema of moves).

 

 

 

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Petgill Wall. Great for learning moss technique and bushwacking and tree climbing too!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You can do a great wide stem chimney between the pillars at the concrete version of Stonehenge near Maryhill, but topping out is tough. But really, Yosemite has some great examples. I don't know that there is anything tougher on this earth than a 5.9 chimney, except maybe for a 5.8 chimney.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Seems to me that vantage has quite a few good ones. Stems and seeds stand out (kinda tough for learning) and Martha something or other. Check it out. Good luck.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

we have two as-yet unused chimneys that are 45' tall on the new construction job I'm on if you want to try the real thing....

 

 

fruit.gifcantfocus.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Halfway across North Dakota on I90 there is a ten ton block up on four pillars at a rest stop. You have to chimney up btween the pillars and grab one of the bore hole grooves that are now horizontal to pull up. tongue.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Red Square at U.W. There is a cool chimney between two of - what was it? - three? - some number of towers there. An old bolt is visible many feet up the thing.

red_towers_climber.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×