mark Posted July 22, 2003 Posted July 22, 2003 Flee Fly Flue is a good 5.7 chimney on the middle wall at Index. Its been awhile, but I think I remember, about 20-30 feet of nice wide bombay chimney action with no pro. Then placing the big green camelot and a brushy finish to the anchors. The rock isn't worn smooth like the aries chimney. Quote
DCramer Posted July 22, 2003 Posted July 22, 2003 mark said: Flee Fly Flue is a good 5.7 chimney on the middle wall at Index. Its been awhile, but I think I remember, about 20-30 feet of nice wide bombay chimney action with no pro. Then placing the big green camelot and a brushy finish to the anchors. The rock isn't worn smooth like the aries chimney. Â As I remember Hips and Valleys also has a short chimney section and it is easy to set a TR on it. Â Don't forget Roller Coaster Chimney, Black Widow or even Easter OH on Midnight. Quote
texplorer Posted July 22, 2003 Posted July 22, 2003 Surprised I haven't heard about the desert chimneys -Kor/Ingals on Castleton -The Priest -Lightening bolt cracks -Sister superior  Almost all the desert towers have chimneys come to think of it. Quote
erik Posted July 22, 2003 Posted July 22, 2003 good points tex, tho i guess if one was attempting to look locally for wide stuff, one would have to move south to be local for your gems! Â Quote
texplorer Posted July 23, 2003 Posted July 23, 2003 I forget some of you on here have jobs and such. Quote
Gaston_Lagaffe Posted July 23, 2003 Author Posted July 23, 2003 So many chimneys, so little time. Â You guys . I now have more chimneys than I could climb in a year. Quote
erik Posted July 23, 2003 Posted July 23, 2003 texplorer said: I forget some of you on here have jobs and such. Â i know, a quite unfortunate delimma. Â Quote
mmcmurra Posted July 23, 2003 Posted July 23, 2003 DCramer said:Â Don't forget Roller Coaster Chimney, Black Widow or even Easter OH on Midnight. Â I guess Roller Coaster was technically my first 5.9 trad lead, though I only led the crux half of the pitch. It is a beautiful chimney, with a tricky exit move, and sure was a nice finish to the Flame. Â I heart chimneys. Have a blast finding some good ones around here. Best of luck Quote
catbirdseat Posted July 25, 2003 Posted July 25, 2003 Rock and Roll Chimney at Royal Columns, Tieton, YDS 5.3, but seems way harder. Â Nice 5.6 chimney on the 3rd pitch of Champagne, Snow Creek Wall, Leavenworth. Â The last pitch of the West Ridge of Prusik, although it is very short. Quote
willstrickland Posted July 25, 2003 Posted July 25, 2003 texplorer said: Surprised I haven't heard about the desert chimneys -Kor/Ingals on Castleton -The Priest -Lightening bolt cracks -Sister superior  Almost all the desert towers have chimneys come to think of it.  One of the scariest pitches I ever led was the 3rd on Kor-Ingalls, I had never climbed a chimney pitch harder than about 5.5 before that and ended up liebacking about 30ft through the crux, sweating bullets, cursing, breathing so hard I thought I was gonna puke. Came very very close to taking a big ride on that one.  The Priest is just disgusting it looks so scary.  And I hear Erik knows something about the scary chimneys on Tricks in Zion.  I'm suprised Tex didn't put in votes for a road trip to Yos to train on Steck Salathe', Hollow Flake, Midterm, Texas Flake. Lost Arrow Chimney... Quote
klenke Posted October 21, 2003 Posted October 21, 2003 You can go here for a chimney (see attached)... Quote
Al_Pine Posted October 21, 2003 Posted October 21, 2003 The North Face route (opposite side from Klenke's photo) has a great chimney! Go way deep inside then squirm out behind a huge chockstone right at the top. It's like emerging from a hole. Â Bunch of good easy chimney's here , that are a lot closer though. Probably could go climb 'em this weekend. Quote
catbirdseat Posted October 21, 2003 Posted October 21, 2003 I just did a route at Vantage called "Strokin' the Chicken" in the Kingpins. It starts out as a double crack and then turns into a narrow chimney that gets wider as you go up. The good thing about this is that you can practice a variety of stemming moves as you go up. There is even a chockstone you can sling on the way up. It protects well. Although it is rated at 5.6, it seemed harder than Seven Virgins and a Mule (5.7) which I we did the same day. I think the reason is fewer face holds on which to cheat. Quote
fern Posted October 21, 2003 Posted October 21, 2003 these chimneys are in the boulders below Carnival Crack in the Icicle Canyon. There is another fun gimme chimney in some random boulder up valley of Bridge Creek. Some of the most fun chimney bouldering I have ever done. Also I will add North North Arete on the Chief to my list of quality chimney involved climbing. Quote
TimL Posted October 21, 2003 Posted October 21, 2003 I can’t believe nobody has mentioned Damnation crack at Castle Rock. There is also a good chimney that starts of NW Corner and W Face on NEWS.  I heard a great comparison once that climbing chimneys are like having sex. You get in, wiggle around until everything feels right, then have at it.   Quote
Al_Pine Posted October 21, 2003 Posted October 21, 2003 TimL said: I can’t believe nobody has mentioned Damnation crack at Castle Rock.  Yes they have. There is even a somewhat extended discussion about it. Please try to keep up . Quote
catbirdseat Posted March 7, 2005 Posted March 7, 2005 Joshua Tree has a bunch of chimneys. Many of them aren't actually parallel sided though. Some are like acute angled dihedrals etc. Intersection Rock has Bat Crack, Mike's Books, and The Flake, all of which have chimney sections. Quote
skyclimb Posted March 7, 2005 Posted March 7, 2005 There is a great chimney at smith called Strung Out.... Its on the west side, and starts in a good sized cave... Ask Layton about what gear you will need for the lead but I suspect a few #5's #4's and 3.5's It is a good bombay to offwidth. Quote
Alex Posted March 7, 2005 Posted March 7, 2005 Here's another s(l)ick one: Dr Sniff and the Tuna Boaters has a "chimney" thats pretty durn scary to lead! Quote
Alpinfox Posted March 8, 2005 Posted March 8, 2005 Â "Champagne" on SCW has a nice chimney pitch on it. Â Champagne TR Quote
JosephH Posted March 8, 2005 Posted March 8, 2005 (edited) Red Rocks / Epinephrine      Edited March 8, 2005 by JosephH Quote
Drederek Posted March 8, 2005 Posted March 8, 2005 The flaring,narrowing chimney to the right of the climber in Joseph's third picture was a good test for me. There is a bolt to protect the exit move that I had to clip blindly. Move up, reach around, and yell "am I hi enuf yet?". Repeat till answer is yes Quote
Rocks Posted March 8, 2005 Posted March 8, 2005 You guys are talking about Red Rocks go do this: Time up 5.12a, on Brownstone Wall; Put up buy Uriostes in 1985 Here in Washingtion,South Early Winter Spire, The Dolphin Chimeny 5.10c Frenchman Coulee:Sex With Vegtables, 5.10D,The top half. Seven Virgins and a Mule, 5.7 Index, Lizard Route,5.8+ Tieton River,on Moon Rock, Internal Bliss 5.7 The List go on? Rocks Quote
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