Dru Posted July 2, 2003 Share Posted July 2, 2003 So szjakowski jordop and I set off to celebrate Canada Day with a climb of Yellow Brick Road in Marble Canyon. Everything goes smooth at first. On the 7th pitch it is Szy's block starting and he heads out on a 10c pitch. Now its his 1st time ever climbing on limestone and after a couple of meters he decides to head back to the belay. While he is cleaning a TCU from an undercling, which he'd had doubts about but jp and I had assured him was "totally bomber man" a 3 foot by 3foot by 1 foot chunk of the undercling busts off catching him in the side and Jordop in the head & hand and he takes a short factor 2 on the belay... One severely chopped rope, one slightly nicked rope, one beat up leg (jammin) two smashed hands (jammin and jordop) and three severely wrecked psyches were the outcome so we bailed and liveds to climb another day. Beers later. I took some pics.. will post em eventually. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norman_Clyde Posted July 2, 2003 Share Posted July 2, 2003 I thank the great spirit that you guys are still with us. Here's hoping your bruises mend soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigwalling Posted July 2, 2003 Share Posted July 2, 2003 Well, that must have sucked! Damn loose rock. Worst for me was a 20 pound block to the head. Still have a bump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minx Posted July 2, 2003 Share Posted July 2, 2003 glad y'all are "safe" if not sound. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snoboy Posted July 2, 2003 Share Posted July 2, 2003 Dru said: One severely chopped rope, one slightly nicked rope, THANK GOODNESS FOR DOUBLE ROPES! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted July 2, 2003 Share Posted July 2, 2003 scuzzy goes into retirement again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sk Posted July 2, 2003 Share Posted July 2, 2003 glad you are all okay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted July 2, 2003 Author Share Posted July 2, 2003 Jordop leads pitch 4, a nice 5.6 groove, first time sun was out enough to take pictures. Szy sets out on 7th pitch. Block that pulled when offending orange TCU was yarded on during removal indicated. I had told Szy that it was "safe to belay off of" The scar. This was taken from the belay. Jordop and Szy got hit. I just got scared and my ropes got the chop. Probably we got off lucky. Main Wall of Marble Canyon where it all transpired. Back at the car beers are consumed as survival reward. This may be in the Guys of cc.com upcoming Photo Annual under the "man tit" section. Survival is good. Got beer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted July 2, 2003 Share Posted July 2, 2003 AWESOME pics!!! ah, i needed that ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted July 2, 2003 Share Posted July 2, 2003 It's a damn good thing you were climbing with double ropes! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cairns Posted July 2, 2003 Share Posted July 2, 2003 Yumpin' yiminee, that's a bad one! The loose rock traffic directors of Marble Canyon are fickle! Glad you weren't too hurt. I heard Don Serl did that route just recently. Are the ropes in your pic the same diameter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobBob Posted July 2, 2003 Share Posted July 2, 2003 Great TR and excellent pictures. Nice 4runner too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bug Posted July 2, 2003 Share Posted July 2, 2003 Scuzzy lookin death dudes. Climb on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted July 2, 2003 Author Share Posted July 2, 2003 Cairns said: Yumpin' yiminee, that's a bad one! The loose rock traffic directors of Marble Canyon are fickle! Glad you weren't too hurt. I heard Don Serl did that route just recently. Are the ropes in your pic the same diameter? ya when i got home there was email from serl asking me if i wanted beta! nice to hear he finally sent after trying it all those times in the 70s. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rat Posted July 2, 2003 Share Posted July 2, 2003 (edited) Dru said: On the 7th pitch it is Szy's block starting and he heads out on a 10c pitch. Now its his 1st time ever climbing on limestone and after a couple of meters he decides to head back to the belay. you guys let ben take the hard block of pitches when he'd never climbed limestone before? that's fucking hilarious in more ways than one. Edited July 2, 2003 by rat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dberdinka Posted July 2, 2003 Share Posted July 2, 2003 Whoaaa! Glad you guys were on the doubles. I remember tossing a fair amount of detrius off the same pitch..eee....gadds...in the end climbing is just friggin dangerous. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted July 2, 2003 Author Share Posted July 2, 2003 Just to clarify things a bit the rope was not cut between Ben and the belay device but in a loop of slack hanging down on a ledge about 1m below the belay. It was core shot with only 3 strands left intact. Coreshot was about 12m from the end. We ended up using the 12m of cut rope as rap anchors just like Twight says to in Xtreem alpinism. Rapping off with one 56m and one ~48m rope was interesting but there are enough old 1/4" intermediate stations that we made it down with minimal probs. Left a few bail biners behind on the top diagonal rap. (BOOTY) Only got hit once by rope pull induced rock fall on way down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fern Posted July 2, 2003 Share Posted July 2, 2003 dude! leave some rock up there for the rest of us who still want to go climb that PoS! harsh jibbing. you chopped the same rope AGAIN? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stefan Posted July 2, 2003 Share Posted July 2, 2003 You cashed in on some good Karma points on that trip. Accumulate more for future trips..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted July 2, 2003 Author Share Posted July 2, 2003 fern said: dude! leave some rock up there for the rest of us who still want to go climb that PoS! harsh jibbing. you chopped the same rope AGAIN? no the yellow one got the chop this time! but i decided to retire both of them now and am gonna buy 2 new ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted July 2, 2003 Share Posted July 2, 2003 So was this recent quote with reference to your NEAR DEATH TR? Dru said: What are some good ways to convince yourself you are ready for a project you have been thinking about for 6 months, that you know is in condition, you are going with an experienced ropegun, but you still have a little nagging voice telling you you suck and you are gonna epic? If so, HOLY SH*T!! Better start listening to that little nag more carefully. I guess Iain was right. Glad you guys made down relatively unscathed. Though Jamn's lead head may not be the same . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted July 2, 2003 Author Share Posted July 2, 2003 No this was supposed to be a training run for BIG SCARY PROJECT which is on granite and has 1/4" stainless bolts dating from the late 80's.... better rock worse fixed pro? I dont think Jam'n is gonna be as keen on trad limestone unless he has some good exp. on same in da Rockies or on sporto French limestone when he goes to Europe to see Lance bike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted July 2, 2003 Share Posted July 2, 2003 Well at least a broken bolt probably won't chop your ropes or RIP ONE OF YOUR LIMBS CLEAN OFF!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dberdinka Posted July 2, 2003 Share Posted July 2, 2003 Dru said: has 1/4" stainless bolts Stainless! Your bomber. Just bring a bunch of Screamers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neversummer Posted July 2, 2003 Share Posted July 2, 2003 ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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