catbirdseat Posted May 6, 2003 Posted May 6, 2003 I had a bout of SML, otherwise known as Elvis Syndrome, while leading a 5.7 pitch at Royal Columns this weekend. My right leg just wouldn't stay still. It wasn't particularly tired, either. I was trying to concentrate on getting a stopper into the crack, but I had to keep shifting my weight back and forth and climbing up and down so I could straighten the leg. What are some strategies for dealing with this problem? Quote
chucK Posted May 6, 2003 Posted May 6, 2003 CBS, The best way is to keep shifting your weight back and forth and climbing up and down. If you can get the weight totally off of it and stretch it, it helps. Also important is to breath and GET A F8&*IN' grip. That is, calm down. It seems like just being able to focus a few seconds on the shaking limb is enough to calm down and stop the shaking. It is a hard thing to do when you're wanting that stopper in RIGHT NOW, but you're not going to be placing a stopper either if you're using the alternate strategy of shifting your weight around. Quote
catbirdseat Posted May 6, 2003 Author Posted May 6, 2003 So true, so true. How about keeping the heels down. Does that help? Also, I imagine that if you can get more of your foot to support your weight, as opposed to just the toes, that would help take pressure off the calf muscle too. Quote
chucK Posted May 6, 2003 Posted May 6, 2003 Yeah keeping the heels down is good. Yes getting more of your foot to support the weight is key too. But this is basically just a key of climbing in general. Find ways to stick there without taxing yourself. Quote
Figger_Eight Posted May 6, 2003 Posted May 6, 2003 You're golden if you could find a way to rest your weight on your heel. Quote
Bill_Simpkins Posted May 6, 2003 Posted May 6, 2003 Yep...Heel down....relax...breathe... maybe your not getting enough climbing in. The more I get in, the less often this occurs. At home, stand on your tippy toes for a long time with weights in hands. Like 5 pounds or so. Quote
iain Posted May 6, 2003 Posted May 6, 2003 relax, it just means you suck and are in over your head Quote
fleblebleb Posted May 6, 2003 Posted May 6, 2003 Ya easiest way to get rid of it is to not climb hard Quote
Szyjakowski Posted May 6, 2003 Posted May 6, 2003 i heard a good way is get reall stoned and drunk... then your numb to all internal/external pain. the truth- chucK hit the nail on the head. Quote
catbirdseat Posted May 6, 2003 Author Posted May 6, 2003 fleblebleb said: Ya easiest way to get rid of it is to not climb hard You should know. You practice what you preach. Quote
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted May 6, 2003 Posted May 6, 2003 No, you goobs! The answer is to climb harder, or at least steeper. You won't get SML if you don't need to use your feet! Quote
bDubyaH Posted May 6, 2003 Posted May 6, 2003 CBS, a nice relaxed breath to get focused usually helps, plus it makes placing a piece easier. often times when i am climbing i start to whistle, it helps calm me down for the hard sends, and pisses my partners of to boot. nothing like whistling your way through the crux making it look easy, especially when they don't know that i do it to relax. Quote
Sphinx Posted May 6, 2003 Posted May 6, 2003 Dr_Flash_Amazing said: No, you goobs! The answer is to climb harder, or at least steeper. You won't get SML if you don't need to use your feet! You might get sewing machine ARM though! Quote
kitten Posted May 6, 2003 Posted May 6, 2003 bDubyaH said: CBS, a nice relaxed breath to get focused usually helps, plus it makes placing a piece easier. often times when i am climbing i start to whistle, it helps calm me down for the hard sends, and pisses my partners of to boot. nothing like whistling your way through the crux making it look easy, especially when they don't know that i do it to relax. Very Nice. Someone taught me something just this weekend. Stop thinking about being afraid and JUST 'flippin move. Quote
catbirdseat Posted May 6, 2003 Author Posted May 6, 2003 SML isn't caused directly by fear. It is caused by fatigue, although fear slows you down, and that leads to fatigue. Quote
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted May 6, 2003 Posted May 6, 2003 Sphinx said: Dr_Flash_Amazing said: No, you goobs! The answer is to climb harder, or at least steeper. You won't get SML if you don't need to use your feet! You might get sewing machine ARM though! No prob', helps you campus faster. Quote
Dru Posted May 7, 2003 Posted May 7, 2003 It is caused 1) by being suck and 2) forgetting to breathe. Quote
Retrosaurus Posted May 7, 2003 Posted May 7, 2003 Sphinx said: You might get sewing machine ARM though! Is that like "jack-off arm"? Quote
fleblebleb Posted May 16, 2003 Posted May 16, 2003 catbirdseat said: fleblebleb said: Ya easiest way to get rid of it is to not climb hard You should know. You practice what you preach. The jibe was not unexpected, but considering its origin its nature certainly was. If you still have sewing machine leg then you don't have the technique for climbing intermediate routes, let alone hard ones. But sure, I don't climb hard either. Quote
Toast Posted May 16, 2003 Posted May 16, 2003 I predict Fleb and Carbird are gonna duke it out soon. Quote
Dru Posted May 16, 2003 Posted May 16, 2003 its like cbs is challenging allison for most knowledge for least amount of climbing Quote
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