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catbirdseat

Sewing Machine Leg

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I had a bout of SML, otherwise known as Elvis Syndrome, while leading a 5.7 pitch at Royal Columns this weekend. My right leg just wouldn't stay still. It wasn't particularly tired, either. I was trying to concentrate on getting a stopper into the crack, but I had to keep shifting my weight back and forth and climbing up and down so I could straighten the leg.

 

What are some strategies for dealing with this problem?

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CBS,

The best way is to keep shifting your weight back and forth and climbing up and down. If you can get the weight totally off of it and stretch it, it helps. Also important is to breath and GET A F8&*IN' grip. That is, calm down. It seems like just being able to focus a few seconds on the shaking limb is enough to calm down and stop the shaking. It is a hard thing to do when you're wanting that stopper in RIGHT NOW, but you're not going to be placing a stopper either if you're using the alternate strategy of shifting your weight around.

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So true, so true. How about keeping the heels down. Does that help? Also, I imagine that if you can get more of your foot to support your weight, as opposed to just the toes, that would help take pressure off the calf muscle too.

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Yeah keeping the heels down is good.

 

Yes getting more of your foot to support the weight is key too. But this is basically just a key of climbing in general. Find ways to stick there without taxing yourself.

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Yep...Heel down....relax...breathe... maybe your not getting enough climbing in. The more I get in, the less often this occurs. At home, stand on your tippy toes for a long time with weights in hands. Like 5 pounds or so.

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relax, it just means you suck and are in over your head wave.gif

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i heard a good way is get reall stoned and drunk... then your numb to all internal/external pain. rolleyes.gif

the truth- chucK hit the nail on the head. bigdrink.gif

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fleblebleb said:

Ya easiest way to get rid of it is to not climb hard smirk.gif

You should know. You practice what you preach. smirk.gif

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CBS,

a nice relaxed breath to get focused usually helps, plus it makes placing a piece easier. often times when i am climbing i start to whistle, it helps calm me down for the hard sends, and pisses my partners of to boot. nothing like whistling your way through the crux making it look easy, especially when they don't know that i do it to relax. wink.gif

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Dr_Flash_Amazing said:

No, you goobs! The answer is to climb harder, or at least steeper. You won't get SML if you don't need to use your feet! thumbs_up.gif

You might get sewing machine ARM though! yelrotflmao.gif

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bDubyaH said:

CBS,

a nice relaxed breath to get focused usually helps, plus it makes placing a piece easier. often times when i am climbing i start to whistle, it helps calm me down for the hard sends, and pisses my partners of to boot. nothing like whistling your way through the crux making it look easy, especially when they don't know that i do it to relax. wink.gif

 

Very Nice.

Someone taught me something just this weekend.

Stop thinking about being afraid and JUST 'flippin move.

fruit.giffruit.giffruit.gif

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SML isn't caused directly by fear. It is caused by fatigue, although fear slows you down, and that leads to fatigue.

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Sphinx said:

Dr_Flash_Amazing said:

No, you goobs! The answer is to climb harder, or at least steeper. You won't get SML if you don't need to use your feet! thumbs_up.gif

You might get sewing machine ARM though! yelrotflmao.gif

 

yellaf.gif

 

No prob', helps you campus faster.

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It is caused 1) by being suck and 2) forgetting to breathe.

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catbirdseat said:

fleblebleb said:

Ya easiest way to get rid of it is to not climb hard smirk.gif

You should know. You practice what you preach. smirk.gif

 

The jibe was not unexpected, but considering its origin its nature certainly was. If you still have sewing machine leg then you don't have the technique for climbing intermediate routes, let alone hard ones. But sure, I don't climb hard either.

 

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its like cbs is challenging allison for most knowledge for least amount of climbing yellaf.gif

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