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Do you sometimes simul-rap?  

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  1. 1. Do you sometimes simul-rap?

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Posted

No, but I think it's probably a good idea if you don't have much time to get down or just want to speed up the descent (racing against the sun, weather, etc...)

Posted

This winter when ice climbing in the Canandian Rockies I simul-rappelled many times when climbing as a threesome. The first two would rap with a backed up anchor, then the third person would rappel taking the back-up out. It worked out really well in this situation. If there were two climbers, it is probably better to rap individually.

 

Needless to say extra care must be taken when simul-rappelling. If one person raps off the end, then both people are screwed. Also, care must be given when weighting and unweighting the rap lines so the lines don't slip, or so the other rappeler doesn't fall when the other end is unweighted.

 

Climb, and rappel, safe!

Posted

It's pretty good for clean low-angle slabs like at Static Point. Easier to control yourself on the rap to avoid the double-death scenario. Plus rapping each on a single line makes it easier to keep the ropes from tangling together.

 

That said, don't do it! It's certain double-death! cool.gif

Posted
iain said:

be sure to make sure you have compatible gut sizes yellaf.gif

 

this is not a big issue if you comunicate well with your climbing partner.

Posted

communication: yeah....last time I simulrapped was on the tooth. We both weighted the rope and communicated that neither of us would unweight it until we were both at the next anchor and confirmed the event. I started down, partner who had never simulrapped before needed to make last minute adjustment to harness leg loops or something and suddenly found herself literally screaming toward the anchor. To her credit she didn't let go of the brakehand and I only dropped 4 or 5 feet.

 

We tried it again on the next pitch down and it worked just fine...I still kinda chuckle about that one sometime....

 

There are some climbs in the South Dakota Needles that require a simulrap to get off....awesomely cool...that was my first simulrap.

Posted

What kind of climb requires a simul-rappel? I'm having trouble picturing it... you have to reach the ground way over to either side of the anchor?

 

Do you simul-rappers (heh heh) always knot the ends together to prevent the dreaded double death fall? It all depends, I suppose, but knotting the ends seems doubly important in this case.

Posted
slothrop said:

What kind of climb requires a simul-rappel? I'm having trouble picturing it... you have to reach the ground way over to either side of the anchor?

 

(snip)

 

It's a common practice in the Needles of South Dakota where the summits of the pinnacles have no anchors.

Posted

Neat simul-rappel trick I recently learned:

1) Feed rope through bomber anchor.

2) On one side of the rope, near the anchor, tie an overhand knot on a bight.

3) Use a locking biner to connect the bight to the other rope.

4) Heavier person raps on the side without the bight, which brings the knot and biner against the anchor, preventing fatty from plummeting if thinny feeds too much rope out.

5) Thinny pulls rope.

 

Pretty slick, but use only if your sure the knot/biner won't get stuck when you pull the rope.

 

 

Posted

When my partner and I bailed from Yocum we simul-rapped off of a huge rock feature. No viable anchor sources were around so we just rapped off either side simultaneously. Not something I want to make a regular practice of.

Posted
Paco said:

This winter when ice climbing in the Canandian Rockies I simul-rappelled many times when climbing as a threesome. The first two would rap with a backed up anchor, then the third person would rappel taking the back-up out. It worked out really well in this situation. If there were two climbers, it is probably better to rap individually.

 

Needless to say extra care must be taken when simul-rappelling. If one person raps off the end, then both people are screwed. Also, care must be given when weighting and unweighting the rap lines so the lines don't slip, or so the other rappeler doesn't fall when the other end is unweighted.

 

Climb, and rappel, safe!

 

Paco and I will also be willing to give everybody a clinic on setting up bomber knifeblade pin raps if anybody is interested. fruit.gifyelrotflmao.gif

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