WA/OR Ice Conditions 2022-2023

[Kyle M]

@CascadeClimberI drive by Exit 38 all the time and it was actually fatter two weeks ago before it fell apart than right now. It's climbable, definitely on top rope, but would be bold on lead. I've seen it in much better conditions than currently. Also some nice ice little bit west of Exit 38, not sure which crags. But it was sub zero windchill on I90 today, so I didn't see anyone climbing it, and tomorrow it's really warming up and done for.

Edited December 22, 2022 by Kyle M

[KingsMM]

Here's a few photos from today in the Columbia Gorge. We TRd Cruiser and Water Heater at the West Bridal Veil Area. Crux was driving to the climbs with multiple closures. Both were in WI 3ish wet condition. So fun!!! I'll post some more pics if I get some from my partner.

[Kameron]

On 12/18/2022 at 3:23 PM, manninjo said:

Put in a snowshoe track to access this buttress at the head of seymour creek under north face of north twin sister, this zone is pretty legit. Ice was better than average for washington. Approach took longer than expected and we only did a couple lines on the lower tier at wi3 and wi4. Whole thing probably goes at wi4, maybe 70m tall? Somebody should get out there while they don't have to break fresh trail! 2.5-3 hrs with a trail in place from the gate closure. 4-5 hrs if breaking trail. Looked like decent snow camping next to the creek under the crag. 

Nice work!

I've skied underneath that buttress and never noticed water ice. Maybe kind of rare conditions?

This is the drainage that leads down to the Olivine mine. I would imagine that approaching with skis via the normal N Twin winter (ski) route would be most efficient albeit more vert than going straight up from the mine. The travel is generally easy. One would ascend to the bench above this buttress then ski down to access the ice, then return the same way.

In typical winter conditions the small flow in your 3rd pic is completely covered in snow and a nice short ski run.

[Geoff M]

19 hours ago, KingsMM said:

Here's a few photos from today in the Columbia Gorge. We TRd Cruiser and Water Heater at the West Bridal Veil Area. Crux was driving to the climbs with multiple closures. Both were in WI 3ish wet condition. So fun!!! I'll post some more pics if I get some from my partner.

Nice work, we were planning on heading that way Friday morning but all the road closers kept us in place. Doubt they'll last until after Christmas sadly

[wdietsch]

👍

[Geoff M]

Probably no surprise to anyone but all the gorge climbs are toast.

 

You could maybe climb the first pitch of Crown Jewel today but everything else had a stream running through it and was fading fast.

 

I can share more pics if anyone really wants to look at rotten ice.

Edited December 27, 2022 by Geoff M

[Szyjakowski]

On 12/15/2022 at 11:17 PM, manninjo said:

Bad cell phone picture from far away, haven't heard of these flows on the n aspect of north twin sister, up the seymour creek drainage. Looks like a bushwhack or tricky descending detour from the standard n face ski route. 

The main flow was climbed in February 2000 and called “Dreamin’ of Dry Crags” FKA Jon Otto and Ben Stanton 

-recorded in Washington Ice guidebook by Martin & Krawarik 

https://www.amazon.com/Washington-Ice-Climbing-Guide-Guides/dp/0898869463

[CascadeClimber]

On 12/31/2022 at 11:08 AM, Szyjakowski said:

-recorded in Washington Ice guidebook by Martin & Krawarik 

Does anyone know if Alex is still around the area? I saw him a few times with Summer on the Cable Line maybe 4-5 years ago, but nothing since.

[bedellympian]

For those with a high clearance 4WD, you can currently drive to Pole Creek TH in the Sisters (OR) and a 2 hr ski gets you to numerous N facing flows off the E buttress of North Sister.

[manninjo]

@bedellympian awesome, have any photos of the zone? 

[Geoff M]

11 hours ago, bedellympian said:

For those with a high clearance 4WD, you can currently drive to Pole Creek TH in the Sisters (OR) and a 2 hr ski gets you to numerous N facing flows off the E buttress of North Sister.

Nice! I've heard murmurs of some routes up that way and just saw Artem's post earlier today on FB.

 

You guys have a chance to check out anything on Broken Top yet?

[KingsMM]

22 hours ago, bedellympian said:

For those with a high clearance 4WD, you can currently drive to Pole Creek TH in the Sisters (OR) and a 2 hr ski gets you to numerous N facing flows off the E buttress of North Sister.

Yes, any photos?!

[bedellympian]

On 1/23/2023 at 10:06 PM, Geoff M said:

Nice! I've heard murmurs of some routes up that way and just saw Artem's post earlier today on FB.

 

You guys have a chance to check out anything on Broken Top yet?

Haven't been out to BT but based on N Sister I would say the N side of BT is probably fat.

[AlexK]

First-time post, recently moved to WA and been looking for some ice. Went out to Whitepine, east of Stevens Pass on Sunday with the cold temps. Things clearly got beat-up with the warm-up on Wednesday/Thursday but found some climb-able stuff to do some laps on. Led up the left side, larger pillar on the right was unfortunately detached at the top. The mixed/ice lines closer to the parking area weren't in on Sunday but seemed to be fattening up, would be curious what they look like on say, Thursday morning. Was cold Sunday night/Monday morning (still around 11 degrees according to my car near Lake Wenatchee) so temps are promising. Oh and there is a bolted anchor above this stuff on Whitepine, but unfortunately its also a bunch of frozen tat-slings run directly through the bolts with various rings on it. Next time I'm up I'll try to bring a chain/quick links to clean up the anchor unless someone beats me to it.

[Kyle M]

I drove by Exit 38 on Wednesday and was surprised to see a good amount of ice growth on Black Ice Crag (there was nothing there just 4 days ago). So I returned in the dark Thursday evening. It was definitely delaminating and on its last legs (it was 55 degrees in North Bend during the day) but still provided a fun 30m pitch! A determined party can scramble around the right side of the crag and set up a top rope from a tree, as we did. A 70m rope barely reached down. The longer routes would need two ropes to TR.

[DPS]

On 1/4/2023 at 11:18 AM, CascadeClimber said:

Does anyone know if Alex is still around the area? I saw him a few times with Summer on the Cable Line maybe 4-5 years ago, but nothing since.

Hi Loren,

Alex is still in Bellevue. He hasn't been climbing much lately, been sailing more. He was heading to the Rockies with one of his boys last month though. Wanted me to join, but I couldn't.

Dan

[AlexK]

Anyone managed to get out to Whitepine/Leavenworth ice recently? Temps the last week or so have seemed pretty good so tempted to try Sunday/Monday or something.

[Kameron]

Skied the Thunder glacier last week (very nice powder, sled approach). This ice cliff line under Assassin Spire was looking pretty fat. My photo is shitty, but the ice underneath the serac looked thick.

Edited March 13, 2023 by Kameron

[Kameron]

(in no way does this look like a wise spot to go climbing, but I think it looks cool)

[Tom Beirne]

21 March 2023 -> the relatively unknown white pass ice was barely holding on. We decided not to climb on 22 March given the temps were too high too long. Observable horizontal fractures (3x) with high overnight temps. We lowered in off the tree, with a deadman picket on the snow bank out left to keep the rope from rubbing in the snow, or on the rock. Lowering directly off the tree will surely cut your rope. Set some screws right to keep away from the fractures. 70m rope touches ground. WI3 start to WI4+. Screws pulled out near end of day, no direct solar. Wind sustained 15 gust 25 from up the creek.

WHERE: Clear Creek Cirque. Aka Clear Creek Falls overlook. Park at dog lake, walk east on hwy to the overlook parking (filled in by plow), jump the guard rail and walk down the hill and east to the top of the falls. Brutal 10min approach.

With @sfuji 

Mid February probably best time to go for either the falls left or falls right. The rock is volcano choss / shale. Considered doing some mixed there but the ice was out, and the rock is always out. 

IMG_7859.HEIC

[fran_sanity]

Pan Dome Falls is currently in. Didn't get the chance to grab a picture today but it is in. Probably will be out by the end of the week with the warming temps. If anyone is interested in going up, let me know, I would be interested!

[kmfoerster]

Triple Couloirs and the rest of the N. face of Dragontail look to be in the best shape it's been in since 2017. Didn't climb it this year personally but saw some posts. Videos of the runnels look quite fat, saw some photos of the face with really good coverage.

[fran_sanity]

18 hours ago, kmfoerster said:

Triple Couloirs and the rest of the N. face of Dragontail look to be in the best shape it's been in since 2017. Didn't climb it this year personally but saw some posts. Videos of the runnels look quite fat, saw some photos of the face with really good coverage.

Nice! Where did you see the photos and videos?