manninjo

We were vaguely aware of a walk off climbers' right, it did look somewhat improbable due to the steep canyon sides and bushwacky forest on the horizon... good to hear that it goes, sounds like a viable alternative to finagling rappel anchors and downclimbing.

Trip: Hope BC - Cruel Pools Trip Date: 02/09/2019 Trip Report: Since moving to Bellingham at the beginning of last year I'd been pining for Hope - ice didn't seem to come in last winter, though the snow riding was pretty good locally. This winter had been looking bleak, replete with rain-on-snow events at Baker and sunny January days on rock in Squamish and at Mt. Erie. All that changed with a little help from the recent arctic outflow down the Fraser. Leaving the car with the thermometer reading 0 degrees F last Sunday at Coquihalla Summit for a ski tour, the cold was tangible. Driving back down the 1 on the way home, signs of ice were everywhere and the forecast ahead looked promising. Last Sunday, 3 Feb 2019: After many midweek texts and emails and internet bat signals, plans were made. Hope springs eternal. I'd read somewhere that Cruel Pools was like the "This House of Sky" of the Fraser. I had gotten on the latter last November and the comparison is certainly apt. Pitch after pitch of fun, mellow ice up a narrow and twisting canyon, each next pitch invisible until topping out and turning a new corner. The ice was mostly perfect, thunker, plastic in many places, thick enough for 10s and 13s and maybe a 16 here and there. We soloed the first two steps, belayed a narrow chimney, and continued upwards, alternating between belayed and off-belay climbing. Pitches varied in length between 10 and 50 meters, separated by short walks up the snow covered creek bed. After some time, we arrived at the final pitch described in a 2005 CC trip report and found the likely WI4 pitch to be guarded by a thin eggshell and unlikely topout. To the left, an alternate finish appeared to offer at least 3 or 4 more rope lengths of similar climbing, provided one wanted to put up with a short pitch of frozen moss to get back to the ice. Satisfied with the mileage and altitude achieved, we commenced what in the Rockies would be a casual, bolted descent. In this corner of west coast ice however, a variety of rappel anchors were employed, including various frozen logs protruding from the creek, one naked thread, a rock horn, and a rock pinch. In a combination of 7 or 8 single and double rappels we unfortunately left 3 pieces of tat. Future parties would be advised to bring their creativity to descend the ascent route, as the ice was not often thick enough for proper v-threads. Driving home, we couldn't help but stop a number of times to gawk at the numerous lines of all lengths and difficulties spilling off the hillsides. As the authors of the West Coast Ice write, this would be Mecca for ice climbers, if only winter was 5 degrees C colder and two months longer. One can hope. Gear Notes: Ice climbing gear, screws to comfort, emphasis on short screws. Two ropes recommended for descent. Approach Notes: Obvious pullout and drainage past 2km marker on Silver Skagit Road. 5 minute walk to climbing.

I've wondered about the holes in my circa 2010 smartwool base layers, also considered some kind of critter was responsible in some way. Sounds like it could be just normal planned obsolescence for these things. Still useable but getting a bit long in the tooth. Definitely always air dry these things as well. The icebreaker stuff I have is not holding up nearly as well.

Looking for an ice climbing partner for lowland ice near Hope BC this weekend. I would be driving from Bellingham and could carpool from there. Looking to lead or swing leads on the longer wi2-wi3 routes that are confirmed to be in shape right now and at least through this weekend. They didn't come into shape last year and won't be here for long! Email is best to communicate and my username, manninjo, is the address at the email service provider @gmail.com Cheers, Joe

Sweet trip!

Randkluft, nice one!

Trip: Colchuck Lake - Ice/Dragontail + Colchuck conditions Trip Date: 02/11/2018 Trip Report: Went up to Colchuck lake on Saturday thinking there may have been enough melt freeze lately to make ice fat on Dragontail, probably still too early this year. Some ice on the northern aspects but looked pretty spicy through zoomed in views. We climbed a neat consolation ice line on the lower flanks of Colchuck Balanced Rock and enjoyed the sunny and windless alpine ambience instead. Skinning the road required a fair bit of walking but booting up the summer trail was easy with a snowshoe track packed down. Nice and consolidated snowpack made for easy traveling. I feel like alpine climbing in the Cascades you can have good ice, good snow, or good weather. Oftentimes you can choose one. Getting two or three to align is elusive, rewarding when it happens though. Here are some conditions photos from February 10+11 of Triple Couloirs, Gerber-Sink, and an ice flow coming down the lower flanks of CBR with some vintage tat at the top. Gear Notes: Cascade winter grab bag. Two ropes would be nice Approach Notes: From Icicle Creek

Sent you a PM about the tech bindings, thanks.

Thank you for the system update, it looks like a big improvement over the ubb software! I went to message someone privately regarding an item on the yardsale, and it said my message inbox was full. If I go to my profile, I do not see an inbox anywhere or place to delete messages... is there something I am missing here?

sent you a pm - Joe

Public comment on the proposed fee increase is open until November 23 - please let the NPS know how you feel if this increase doesn't jive. https://parkplanning.nps.gov/document.cfm?parkID=442&projectID=75576&documentID=83652

I've just been to the Bend and Royal Columns separately, but it looks like a trail connects the two crags on the side of the river across from the road. Is walking between the crags something people do? Does one risk getting shot by a hunter if they were walking around between the two crags out there? Wondering in case of carpool situation in which some prefer one crag over the other. Looks like a mile or less flat walking on the map.

Bring out the gold stars for this trip report! Bravo sir.

Have a Monday off randomly and can leave Seattle about 10:30am, climbing around noon until dark. Happy to drive from the area. Mostly hoping to lead 5.10s. Email is manninjo at gmail.com. Joe

Thanks! Yes, much of Ptarmigan is/was especially skiable with the conditions we had. I also forgot to mention the skiers who passed us at St. Elmo's were later seen skiing Liberty Ridge. I consolidated some condition-type photos, looks like a couple have partial views to that part of the mountain. https://goo.gl/photos/a6fzbN53TLh14vkw7