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Everything posted by bedellympian

  1. Must do routes in Washington Pass

    @robertm does WA Pass mean just the Liberty Bell Group as some people suggested here, or do you include all of the surrounding peaks and walls? If you include surrounding areas then I second W Ridge of Paisano to N Face of Burgundy as the best route I've climbed at the pass under 5.11... I'll take it over DEB, W Face of NEWS, Clean Break, Beckey Route, etc, any day. @mthorman and @Rad have their opposing opinions on Clean Break... personally a long adventure route like that adds to the appeal and I thought Clean Break was awesome and I would put it on your list, but as mentioned there are few good 5.10s at the pass. If you want to climb good routes at that grade just go to the Sierra... there are dozens of 5.10 routes better than it there... Marlin, sounds like you need a road trip. ;) I have not climbed Rebel Yell, but have heard great things. If I went back that would be the one route on my list in the sub 5.11 range. So maybe those would be my three... Paisano to N Face of Burgundy, Clean Break, Rebel Yell
  2. Snoqualmie Winter Conditions

    Hey all, I've climbed a lot in various areas around the NW in winter but not in Snoqualmonix. I would like to climb some of the classic routes like NY Gully next winter and just curious what experienced people look for in weather to produce good climbing conditions. Thanks, Sam
  3. Rope Solo Systems for Free and Aid?

    @Michael Telstad could you link that TR? I can't find it. Edit: NM here it is...
  4. Rope Solo Systems for Free and Aid?

    For solo aid I also use clove hitches. Always have two so you're backed up as you feed slack on one (I entrain them on the same rope). I've taken a fairly large whipper on this system and it was fine. For free climbing there is a fairly good community here https://www.facebook.com/groups/LeadRopeSolo/ where people share their systems. Seems like most folks these days are trending toward a gri-gri with a microtrax or similar, to hold the rope allowing easy pulling of slack and the weight of the rope not causing problems feeding in the gri-gri. I haven't tried the method myself but I've watched someone with it dialed run a quick lap on Lost in Space at Smith (10c 4p). Looked pretty slick. @bargainhunter where did you learn the deets for the back loop system? I've heard of it before and the name gives me some idea of what's going on but I'd love specifics.
  5. question Hardshell bib pants

    As a father, I salute your commitment to the cause!
  6. question Hardshell bib pants

    I recently ordered hardshell bib pants from Mountain Equipment because they were on sale in my size and said "alpine climbing fit". When they arrived they fit great BUT they are SO baggy around the ankles like a ski pant. This seems ridiculous for a "climbing" fit and even with G2 boots on they seem like they are at least two inches too wide and just snag on crampons. Anybody have any ideas for how to either fix this, jerry rig it, or what to look for to actually get a a climbing fit?
  7. question Hardshell bib pants

    Thanks @JasonG for that snarky but useful response. I thought about gaiters too. Given that I would be wearing something like a modern double boot with built in gaiters I feel like this is an annoying solution. I think hemming/re-seaming like @kmfoerster suggested is the only option besides returning them and buying something that fits better. Mostly I'm just annoyed that they were listed for alpine climbing but are just baggy ski pants.
  8. That last photo of you sitting at the table is great! The others are decent too I guess, but that one is my favorite.
  9. Tonquin Valley / Mt Geikie

    Thanks Marlin. I talked to Duncan too, I guess he might be up that way this summer as well. If anyone else hears/knows anything let me know!
  10. Tonquin Valley / Mt Geikie

    Anyone been into this zone and have advice on approach strategy? More unlikely, but anyone climbed on Geike and have beta, especially for the descent back to the North side? Thanks!
  11. [TR] Mt Hood - Circumnavigation 02/12/2022

    So you didn't use skis? Looks cool.
  12. Better PNW weather forecasting

    I've been aware of UW's time-height forecasting system for a while but really started using it this year. There have been several days where NOAA pt predicts clouds or high winds but the time-height shows its calm and clear above 5-6k' and its right on. Reading them takes some getting used to, they are definitely not the most user friendly, but once you've practiced a bit it's easy enough. Time goes from R-L on the x-axis in UTC (date/hour, 00=4pm PST day before and 12=4am day of), elevation is on the y-axis in mbar pressure (800 is aprox 6k', 700 = 10k'). Green = clouds/precip, arrows = wind (more fletchings = more wind, they point in the compass direction), temp is deg C shown in red lines ("0" line is the freezing level). Here is the link to a map of the time-heights. Click on the location down wind of where you want to go. Look for white above 800mbar with small wind arrows, there's your window. https://a.atmos.washington.edu/mm5rt/rt/timeheights_d3.cgi?GFS+current_gfs+
  13. Annapurna III

    They each lost an average of 13 kgs (29 lbs). Eighteen days on route. Also, that tent site looks terrifying.
  14. Scottish Ice

    Classic... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mXzVNFrLzk0 <iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/mXzVNFrLzk0" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
  15. Bush pilots to coast range

    The Waddington Guide by Serl lists Corilair and Island West Air as options for planes from Van Island. Corilair offers float planes while Island West Air offers float and wheeled planes. The guide was published in 2003 so I'm sure things have changed but hopefully that gives you a starting point... https://www.corilair.com/ Looks like IWA's website is no longer up so they may be closed down. I bet all those pilots know each other so I would just call up someone and tell them what you're looking for.
  16. Kid carrying packs

    Just had our first and we have an old carrier pack a friend passed on, however I would love to be able to do a lot of longish hikes with the kiddo (maybe with extra weight) and am curious if people have things to consider or models that they find really good.
  17. Thanks for the detailed answers. Two more queries if you don't mind... How was the rock you encountered? What elevation was freezing level during your trip (night vs day)? Would also love to see more photos!
  18. Sounds like quite the summer, would be great to hear about your other 7000m peaks too. I'm also curious how it was to setup logistics and what the cost of this sort of trip looks like?
  19. [TR] Buck Mountain - Northeast face 08/11/2021

    Does anyone know how close you can get to this with a car in winter???
  20. September Glacier Routes

    Some other people may have something different to say, but I would stay off of those peaks in September. The rock is bad and will be exposed, and the crevasses will be open. If you will be on a trip and don't want to climb something more technical, then go do a 3rd/4th class ridge scramble in the N Cascades. If you want to climb a glacier route plan a trip for May/June.
  21. [TR] Lion's Head - East Buttress 07/17/2021

    Thanks for sharing these climbs Nick. Always cool to see these more obscure routes out East.
  22. Can you be more specific on what you mean by "resources" and "dead ends"?
  23. Working on weaknesses

    I'm sure lots of you know who Dave Macleod is... one of the best all-around climbers on the planet and a training guru of sorts. I never looked at his stuff too hard as I was more focused on alpine routes than hard rock climbing, but now that I have a kid and rock climbing is much easier to access in a short time frame from my house than other things I've started taking a deeper look at what he has to say. A big point of his is that you need to work on your weaknesses (duh, though a lot of people don't do that). His classic training example is when he went from 8b to 9a (that's 13d-14d) in 18 months. After years of climbing he realized his weakness was grip strength and started hangboarding consistently which he credits as the main reason for his jump. Of course, everyone seems to hangboard these days, myself included, and its not my weakness (though I'm certainly not amazing at it). He mentions that this came after a good base of climbing movement and described this as doing 1,000 routes from E1 to E4 (that's 5.9+ to 11c). I initially thought I was pretty close but decided to check. I've done a fairly good job of tracking routes I've climbed thanks to MP, guidebooks, and a log of routes. I rounded up to include anything from 5.9 to 5.11 and with some rough estimation figure I'm at about 350 pitches in this grade range, much less than anticipated. Of course if you expand that to 5.7 and up (or 5.0 and up) then the number sky rockets, but a lot of this climbing doesn't teach you much about movement and technique which is Dave's point. This got me thinking, a friend of mine (apparently I hang out with like minded people who like data) had taken all the routes at Smith Rock, our local crag, and put them into a spreadsheet by grade (OCD for sure, but it takes one to know one). According to the spreadsheet there are almost 800 routes from 5.9 to 11d at Smith. I went through and marked off all the routes/pitches in this grade range that I had done and it was less than 100! I was very surprised by this. At first I thought that despite the plethora of routes at Smith there is a lot of crap rock. However, I also think a lot of routes fall off the radar and aren't popular. I think I've probably repeated a lot of the routes, and they are good routes, but there are routes that are right by the car that are perfectly good (2-3 stars) that I've never done because they aren't super classic, or in an obvious spot. So going forward a goal of mine is to increase the number of routes I've climbed in that range, with the ultimate goal fo reaching that arbitrary 1,000 number. Obviously there is nothing magic about the number 1,000, but it gives me a big goal to shoot for in the long term that gets me working on a probable weakness. I've also decided to include boulders in the V0-V4 range as part of this, since its also teaching me movement, and is logistically easier than going cragging. So I guess part of me wanted to post this to put my thoughts out there to see what others think. Is this uesful? How so, how not? Also to see what others have done. Where do you think you are in your 1,000 routes? You could also apply this to ice, mixed, or even alpine (1,000 alpine routes! Crazy!). Or scale it to suite you, 5.6 to 5.9, 5.0 on up, 5.11a to 5.13d?!
  24. Working on weaknesses

    Totally agree on the ice. Its interesting to see the numbers, turns out I'm pretty similar. For mixed climbing we have a couple local dry tool crags, one up by Bachelor ski are and one at an overlooked cliff at Smith Rock. There is another mixed crag getting developed up on the Cascade crest but its early stages. The other thing I do is go to this less-travelled rock crag in winter and climb the mossy/chossy grooves on gear between the actual rock climbs. Done a few 2 pitch routes that way and it makes for a good bad weather adventure practice day. Also, trying to get on more mixed stuff when I go up to Canada and other places. I feel like mixed is one of the limiters of me doing harder routes in the alpine. Like you said, M3/4 in the alpine is fine. Getting on bolted M6/7 is convenient and straightforward. But getting on alpine M5/6 with confidence opens up a whole slew of possibilities.
  25. current North Sister conditions beta

    If Oregon, I would also say that it is in good shape right now, just wait for a day of sunshine before getting on North as there was fresh snow up there yesterday.