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Kyle M

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Everything posted by Kyle M

  1. @CascadeClimberI drive by Exit 38 all the time and it was actually fatter two weeks ago before it fell apart than right now. It's climbable, definitely on top rope, but would be bold on lead. I've seen it in much better conditions than currently. Also some nice ice little bit west of Exit 38, not sure which crags. But it was sub zero windchill on I90 today, so I didn't see anyone climbing it, and tomorrow it's really warming up and done for.
  2. Ice in the Cache Couloir. Probably 15-20m, pretty fat looking. The other bigger climbs along the east end of Snow Lake are nowhere near in yet.
  3. @Michael Telstadled me up Flow Reversal today. Anything that wasn't vertical was a bit messed up by the snow and rather insecure, but the steep climbing was great and protected well! We spotted this one in the valley on the approach, possibly Not Quite a Plum?
  4. @manninjothat looks awesome! Did you leave the logging roads around 2700 ft and just follow Seymour Creek from there, or did you take more of the regular North Twin approach? Are the climbs around 4700 ft?
  5. Drove out to Vantage today, but things aren't looking too good there. Frenchman is flowing hard, not even close. A little bit of climbable stuff to the right. Think it needs to be colder. Heard Soap Lake and Banks are doing well, but did not have time to make it out there.
  6. @PorterMshared this pic of Chair with me. He said it looks like thin ice on rock, with not much snow. This is not too surprising because ever since the snow started, it has been quite cold and lacking freeze thaw. There is better ice to be found down near Rap Wall above Source Lake.
  7. Went up to the Damon Mine to check out the climbs there. The road was blocked by a small landslide that added 3 miles of road walking. The climbs were not quite in. I'm not sure if it was slightly too warm or too dry, or a combination of both. The snow on the road was still low density, preserved powder even two weeks after the last snowfall. It has been cold and incredibly low humidity. After a dry fall, it seems there isn't much moisture moving in the ground to form the climbs. We went to the far right climb and played around on the first 50m pitch, which had some easy WI1 to some highly featured, interesting WI2+ topout. The next pitch looked too thin and wet to continue.
  8. Yeah I agree, website hosting isn't cheap. My personal blog is about to level up to about $200-$300 a year. There are some other community sites I'm helping support at a few hundred dollars per year. The sheer number of photos on CC costs a lot. At least we're not like one other notable forum, which un-transparently asked for $12k with no explanation of why it cost so much. I think where I could provide some value is free web consulting if y'all have tech questions. I'm slightly scared however to look at this archaic tech stack
  9. Hey guys, just found this thread. I've gotten a lot from CC over the years and it's disappointing FB has taken so much traffic. I'm pretty busy with some other related organizations (and putting down quite a bit of money for them) but I am pretty proficient in web development so if you need an eye to look at things, let me know. In the mean time, I'll donate and try to spread the word about CC needing donations to my followers.
  10. Some friends went up to Heliotrope last weekend (Nov 12-13) and reported good water ice above the trail like in years past. I think with the road washout and the extra hiking it was 4200 ft gain. They used the map I made of various climbs: https://caltopo.com/m/06CB. The early waterfall on the trail was not quite in. Saw a pic of Colfax, Cosley Houston had basically no ice. Perhaps it was too warm most October, and then just suddenly got cold so no freeze thaw. We also didn't get our first snowfall until late October. A friend went up to New York Gully this week, no ice.
  11. Trip: Jack Creek - Jack Creek High Orbit Trip Date: 10/15/2022 Trip Report: https://climberkyle.com/2022/10/15/jack-creek-high-orbit/ Last weekend, I took advantage of the lingering summer by doing a two day high route orbiting the Jack Creek Valley. On the first day, I went over Windy Pass, past Eightmile Lake, Horseshoe Lake, and over Goat Pass, behind Ingalls to near Van Epps Pass. The second day featured a ton of ridge line scrambling and boulder hopping over the Scatter Peaks, Solomon, Nursery, Highchair, and Bootjack. The terrain felt surprisingly remote and beautiful with the fall colors. There was extensive boulder hopping on the red rock that made it feel harder than 18k gain. The scatter peaks offer some fun low fifth scrambling on good rock, if you're into that kind of thing. Gear Notes: "Fastpacking" gear Approach Notes: Trails.
  12. @JasonG your tastes may be a bit too blue collar for me. This route might not have enough schwack for you. It does have a healthy amount of choss and sidehilling, which I specialize in.
  13. Trip: North Cascades - Fisher Outpost High Route Trip Date: 09/25/2022 Trip Report: Wyatt and I enjoyed a wonderful fall day exploring the region around Outpost Peak and Fisher Pass! We ran down Bridge Creek and up towards Goode, before climbing up the long east ridge of Outpost Peak. There is actually an old decommissioned trail here and would love to learn more if anyone knows anything about it! Outpost has beautiful meadows and larches before some fun scrambling to top it off! It if wasn't for a 12 mile approach, this thing would be classic. We continued on down to Fisher Pass, over Spectacular ridge, Natal Basin, Meulefire-Arrival Col, and Silent Lakes, before rejoining the Easy Pass trail and heading on out. The Meulefire-Arrival Col was a little tricky and I think it could be challenging if you came from the other side, because the main gut on the west side of the col is total death choss. We instead ascended a pink gully just climber's right of it. Total came out to about 30 miles and 11k. What a stunning area! https://climberkyle.com/2022/09/25/fisher-outpost-high-route/ Gear Notes: Running shoes. Poles. Approach Notes: Down down down Bridge Creek.
  14. Trip: Northern Olympics - Northern Olympic High Route Trip Date: 09/03/2022 Trip Report: Over Labor Day, I did really fun three day route from Deer Park to Tyler Peak. We camped the first night in Lillian Basin. Day 2 brought us over the summits of Cameron, through the basin above Cedar Lake, and to the ponds near Grey Wolf Pass. On Day 3, we made our way around Walkinshaw and then along Grey Wolf Ridge to Tyler Peak. Lots to explore in this area! https://climberkyle.com/2022/09/03/northern-olympic-high-route/ Gear Notes: Standard backpacking equipment. Two trekking poles recommended for all the choss. Approach Notes: 2 hour car shuttle between Deer Park and Tyler Peak.
  15. @Rad fixed line is in good shape! I would have expected snow coverage / transitions to make things more annoying but I guess you would not have the pine needle issue. The continuation is to go over Low, do the Kaleetan Granite traverse, climb the west ridge of Chair, traverse Chair to Bryan to Tooth, run down to Alpental, hike up Snoqualmie and do the CURL (commonwealth ultimate ridge linkup: Snoqualmie - Lundin - Red, Kendall) or then into the GURL (gold creek) with Alaska, Thompson, Chikamin, Four Brothers, Alta, and come out Rampart Lakes. Start from Lake Washington, run Coal Creek over Cougar, Squak, Tiger, Rattlesnake, then Si, Tinereffe into Mailbox. An endless route!!!
  16. Trip: I90 Corridor - Mailbox to Granite Traverse Trip Date: 08/11/2022 Trip Report: I did the Mailbox to Granite Traverse after work last week, skipping Bandera and Pratt. It was a pretty full on adventure, and a ton of fun, although I probably won't revisit it for a little. Nothing is ever that hard, but there was just a lot of bush bashing and boulder hopping. To have such an adventure so close to home is pretty special. https://climberkyle.com/2022/08/11/nordkurvengrat-mailbox-to-granite-traverse/ A little after Dirtybox. The Dirty Harry's fixed line. That primo Web to P3 section. Beautiful sunset near Granite. Gear Notes: Running shoes, vest, filter, headlamp Approach Notes: Mailbox old trail
  17. Trip: Mont Blanc Massif - Arête du Diable Trip Date: 07/11/2022 Trip Report: During my mostly hiking vacation to the Alps, I had an impromptu linkup with none other than @drdirtbag himself, tagging 6 4000m peaks in the Mont Blanc Massif. I was scrolling through Strava when I noticed he was biking in the Alps and sent him an email. It turns out he needed a rope and partner for the most technical peaks in the 4000m list, so we had a match! I rented crampons for my running shoes and an ice ax and took the tram up... The climb is more of a ridge traverse with five independent towers, separated by rappels. The final climb to the summit of Mont Blanc de Tacul is just a long scramble. The actual climbing was on excellent granite and generally no harder than 5.8, with one definite crux on the final tower. The scale and drama of the setting was truly magnificent. It was an incredible experience to get to actually try my hand at real ALPine climbing. Just challenging enough, but generally relaxing and never stressful. We stayed the night in the Cosmiques hut before parting ways. I returned to Italy via Aguille du Midi and the Panoramic Skyway, while Dr. Dirtbag continued on his crazy peakbagging endeavors. Pretty spur of the moment linkup, but it was pretty rad. https://climberkyle.com/2022/07/11/arete-du-diable-5c/ Now for some eye candy: Now for some sunset photos: The traverse! Gear Notes: Running shoes, strap on crampons, ice ax, single rack .4-2, nuts, slings, 60m rope. Approach Notes: Glacier remarkably filled in considering the absolutely terrible snow year and summer heat there... bergschrund crossable still. Approach couloir just 3rd class choss, be careful for rockfall here.
  18. Trip: Mt. Hood - Arachnophobia Direct Trip Date: 01/25/2022 Trip Report: @Michael Telstad and I did Arachnophobia Direct on the Black Spider Wall. In fat (i.e. no mixed) conditions, we found it to be a very easy, enjoyable romp. There was a lot of sustained AI2-3 with some neve, snice, and snow mixed in. We found the ice in the upper half of the route to be a little worse for the wear due to all the sun and warm temps recently but still secure for climbing, just worthless for screws. Incredibly, almost nothing fell on us the entire time we were on the wall. We credit this to good luck, three weeks of high pressure leading up, and moderate temps with a nice breeze. It is definitely an intimidating face, but the climbing is pretty chill in the current conditions. https://climberkyle.com/2022/01/25/mt-hood-arachnophobia-direct-ai3/ Thanks to @wayne and Matt Z for the beta! Gear Notes: 10 screws. Definitely not use for the 22cm and should have brought another stubby. Brought rock gear but place none. Single 60m rope. Approach Notes: Crampons all the way from the Timberline parking lot. Crossed the White River Glacier Canyon around 8600 ft to 9k. Definitely not worth bringing skis in the current condition, mega icy.
  19. Stopped by Vantage last night. Went up to some of the drips to the right of Frenchman Falls and the ice was ghostly, aerated, definitely on its way out. Then I walked over to the top of Fuggs in the dark. I am pretty sure I was at the correct spot, but I was confused because I found absolutely no ice. The creek that usually feeds it was bone dry. Ouch. Driving up to Banks the next morning, here is some Soap Lake Ice. A few Lake Lenore area routes, not sure the names. There's additionally a route I only saw on the way home on the east side of the highway that actually looks good. Children of the Sun and Clockwork definitely not in. At Banks, the only classic that is really in is H202. Zenith maybe could be climbed, but it looks desperate. Cable definitely not. Devil's Punchbowl looks hazardous. Not a drop of ice on Salt and Pepper or Absentminded Professors. We did the two routes at MP 14, which were long and in excellent condition. V Threaded 30 feet before the top of the left one to keep it WI4. Then we moved over to Pewee's Playground, which held surprisingly good ice and fun routes. We did #4 and #5, including the second pitch. These climbs were excellent and we were very satisfied with our day. More Banks Ice has a good line that is in. Overall, it was a great day and super exciting to see this area in winter finally. I guess not much is in, but it did not really bother us because all the classic are too hard for us anyways. The quality of all these unnamed "playground" level climbs was simply astounding. Thanks to @Marlin for some helpful beta! PXL_20220110_222028040.MP PXL_20220110_215228444.MP PXL_20220110_201518169.MP
  20. The gully west of the TH (east gully of Esmerelda) looked pretty mixed, no real ice in there. The west facing wall not far south of the TH had several very promising looking lines. Got up to the base of one but not in yet. Apparently one of them is a 5.10 sport climb in the summer with bolted belays and all.
  21. More words, if you are into that kind of thing: https://climberkyle.com/2021/11/27/esmerelda-east-moonlight-serendipity-wi2-m5-1200/
  22. Trip: Chiwaukum Range - Chiwaukum High Route Trip Date: 09/09/2021 Trip Report: This definitely isn't alpine climbing, and nothing exceeded class 3, but I think it is kinda interesting... John Berude and I completed a high traverse of the Chiwaukum Range in a single push. We started at the Lake Ethel Trailhead and ended at Hatchery Creek, summitting Big C, Big Lou, and Big Jim along the way. It was definitely the hardest high route thing I have onsited in a day and one of the best days I have had out there with the scenery and fall colors. It measured 32 miles and 14k ft gain, mostly off trail, and took us 16 hours. Full TR: https://climberkyle.com/2021/09/09/chiwaukum-high-route/ The most interesting part was getting between the Glacier Creek and South Fork Chiwaukum drainages. We utilized the pass to the east of Pt 7955. The south side of the pass looks improbably on a topo map, and there is indeed a cliff there. But one can follow ledges westward and through the cliff band miraculously. A beautiful morning in the Chiwaukum. Above Cup Lake. Some exposed scrambling on Big C. The beautiful Glacier Creek drainage. Looking back on the key ledge that gets you through the cliffs near Pt 7955. Vibrant orange near Cape Horn. On the summit of Big Lou. Nearing the summit of Big Jim. Gear Notes: Running shoes, poles, running vests. Approach Notes: Leave Lake Ethel Trail right before going down to the lake and enter the alpine! Hatchery Creek has over a hundred blowdowns.
  23. I heard (from a guide) that it was guides that put them in, along with the piton anchors on Green Creek Arete. I'm not sure why they put them in however.
  24. @Otto Dylan told me about this route since he had done it a few years ago. I believe Darin was the first to really publicize this official "circuit":
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